Ok before I ask, I have found threads concerning the quality of the OBX Lsd, but most every thread was 2-3 years old.

My question...

Is there anyone on here that has recently bought and or is using this part.

Anyone's recent opinion is much appreciated.

Thanks

I just bought one, new. Um, but.......I ain't got it yet :P .

From my research I believe the unit is worth it. I believe it so much, I am staking my 3.55 tranny on it. The Neon guys seem to be pretty happy with it. The one thing you will need to do though is basically take it apart and put it back together (with upgraded spring washers). Hit up rbryant on this board for more info.

Awesome! Thanks for the input. Is there anyone else? If you don't mind Bullet, could you keep us posted on how yours turns out?

ive been running one for the past month ish, though my car has been on jack stands most of that time waiting for ms


i just started tuning for 15psi today, i plan to post a review after a month of a good abuse.

one note, i have replaced the belliveile washers and the casing bolts.

Sweet, i'll be looking to both you guys for sound input then. That's awsome, if i was to get it, i would definately replace the washers.

I'm looking to go obx lsd route if all is good too. Please keep us updated guys.

If all works out then that would be awesome. I've always been a little iffy about obx quality, but if you just have to replace a few things on it to make it more reliable then great. I've always that the quaife was the way to go, but if the obx works with little problems then that would save at least $500. Definately keep us posted.

Just got the OBX in yesterday. Waiting on the springs. Looks....um...like an LSD :shrug .

Unfortunately, this IS part of a project car that may not be ready for a little bit. OR, I may just put in a stocker engine for the time being.

Yeah I don't plan on needing one for a year at least. It still would be nice for there to be a alternative to the quaife. Just keep us posted.

bah put that stocker in and test her out. I'd like to get one soon.

One thing I did read on the neon forums is the quaife don't do jack for one wheel burnouts. Something about it being a biasing based diff??
Does anyone know if the obx will stop my one wheel burnouts? Or if not what is needed? I'm tired of launching with my passenger tire spinning like a mad mother.

Originally posted by vroom-vroom
bah put that stocker in and test her out. I'd like to get one soon. One thing I did read on the neon forums is the quaife don't do jack for one wheel burnouts. Something about it being a biasing based diff?? Does anyone know if the obx will stop my one wheel burnouts? Or if not what is needed? I'm tired of launching with my passenger tire spinning like a mad mother.

i think you read wrong, i get 2 wheel burnouts with my obx and so should the quaife. Thats the whole point of a LSD, that both tires get power instead of one.

Originally posted by ivan300
i think you read wrong, i get 2 wheel burnouts with my obx and so should the quaife. Thats the whole point of a LSD, that both tires get power instead of one.

x2

You need to be careful on that site. There are some on that site that will "lawyer argue" in reference to anything. There was a relatively recent thread/argument about the benefits of LSD's and some of the info was actually (in my experience and knowledge) at LEAST misleading if not incorrect. But those "lawyer types" develop information and wrap it around their position just to appear to be correct. So they win an argument but the "community" is not helped by it. Annoying, big ego'ed, 13 year olds (hmm, that reads back as a bit of a rant. Sorry not intended)

As ivan said, the reason for the LSD is to transfer power to both wheels (while allowing for a limited slip for corners).

This would keep you from "peg legging" in a burn out.

Oh yeah, I am going to put the 3.55 in with a semi-regular engine (as soon as all my parts show up). So it won't be quite as long to test her out.

And I will :thumbsup

thanks guys for clearing that up.
Awaiting reviews.. hoping to get one asap.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
I am going to put the 3.55 in with a semi-regular engine (as soon as all my parts show up).

OK, I haven't got quite all my parts yet, but I thought I would do an update on the install.

The bolts holding the unit together were of various torques. Some super tight and some easy off. Pulled them out and re-torqued with thread lock.

2. Definitely replace the spring washers. Here's how mine came;



Brand new unit and they were ALREADY broken, hehe. Got the washers from rbryant on here. Simple to get to, and put back in.

3. You either have to bevel the clip on the inner axle shaft, or leave it out entirely (I'm leaving mine out). Even though it looks like they beveled the gear enough (where the axle snaps in). I found out the hard way they didn't.

Not to worry, 20 tons of pressure does this;



I tore the end of the spline off of it with the clip, lol.

4. After you press the bearings on you then have to "fit" the inner stub axle (I just used a junker stub to do my fitting). You may find that the stub will not go in after you press those on (which I did). You must then bore out the hole a little bit to clearance it. I used a brake hone.

The stub etc.;


Honing it out;


Fit after hone;


I spun the stub axle around in different directions just to be sure of the clocking. No problems.


Oh yeah, one more thing. I had to "clearance" the tabs on the speedo gear so it would snap on. If you look at this pic you will see an old one (on the right) and the new OBX. Notice the tabs;


It seems that we have to do the quality control for them. BUT I'm still OK with these as long as they work. The labor is minimal compared to the cost of the Quaife. I can "massage" a part to work. I can't cast and generate one.

Oh and for those that don't know, there is a write up in the wiki for the springs;
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=OBX%20LSD

This is a great write-up. Thumbs up for the step by step details.

How the hell are the Neon guys claiming this is great. This kinda work is total shit. There is no way I want to leave out the retaining clip for the axle and grinding on the clip is just going to result in it breaking. Me persoanlly, if thats what has to be done, i will spend the money for a quaiffe.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
How the hell are the Neon guys claiming this is great. This kinda work is total shit.

It's not just the Neon guys, its the Turbo Dodge guys and the Honda guys and I'm sure there are others. No doubt that you should not have to go through that labor for a "brand new" part. But again, I can alter parts to make them work, but I can't make them (at least not an LSD).

To me it's about the choices. I won't do PG, I can't get another ERT, I don't trust the other inserts out there and the Quaife costs more than I want to spend. If for $370 + $20 for washers, I can get an LSD that I may need to modify (modify a modification, lol), then it is certainly one of my options. If it has a relatively good reputation out there for a few different platforms (albeit, after the modifications) then I will definitely take a look at it.

Having looked at it after the modifications, I'm pretty comfortable that this will work. But, hey, I could be wrong and what the worst that will happen? At worst, I will be pulling the tranny and putting another one in. Something I am prepared to do. I'll take the hit for the team. But as it sits though, unlikely.

There is just one thing that I'm leery about;

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon There is no way I want to leave out the retaining clip for the axle

Yeah......I'm not liking this part. Logically the spindle is held in place and the tranny goes nowhere, thus surrounding the axle in place but...Eh, I don't know about this. There is flex in there. Not much but some. On launch my front end comes up and spits the axles out x( ? I don't know but others run without the clips.

Meh, we'll see

The clip is really my issue, the rest is just finishing. Without the clip i am worried the axle will move in and out possibly enough to leak and throw fluid everywhere and even eat up the seals.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
The clip is really my issue, the rest is just finishing. Without the clip i am worried the axle will move in and out possibly enough to leak and throw fluid everywhere and even eat up the seals.

Agreed. We'll find out soon enough. I got my piston rings in the other day so I can put the head back on the engine to get her back on the road.

well i have been running with no c clips for a couple months now, trust me they will not fall out. they do make a weird noise when the steering wheel is all the way to one side because they flop around a bit.

Originally posted by ivan300
they do make a weird noise when the steering wheel is all the way to one side because they flop around a bit.

That sounds encouraging, lol. No seal leakage I take it?

yeah it does leak a little bit, however its nothing major.

Originally posted by ivan300
yeah it does leak a little bit, however its nothing major.

Hmm, well I did new axle seals, so we'll see where that goes.
Thanks

i also installed new axle seals, so thats not the issue, its just that there is a lot of play horizontally.

Its no big deal?....this makes me cringe. Hell i think i might leave out one of my oil rings next time I rering a motor. Might burn a little oil but what the hell.

Mark I cant believe your going this half-assed route of leaving the clips out, you out of all people I would expect to shut the idea down.

Ivan, I hope the rest of your car isnt this half-assed, however i suspect it is.

i love your analogy terry. i fail to see how you can compare oil rings to a minor trany fluid leak. I replace my tray fluid every couple months so i doubt it is going to cause harm.

I also disagree that is is half-assed to save 600$ for a identical part.
Also this is the only part I "half-assed" on ;)

can it not be made to work with the clips?

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Its no big deal?....this makes me cringe.

Me as well. Definitely gives me reason for pause. I can't have leaks at the track. Just common courtesy. But not enough to dismiss yet. I'm still in.

Originally posted by vroom-vroom
can it not be made to work with the clips?

You either need to alter the clips or alter the spline gear bevel (obviously easier choice of the clip). You would need to bevel down the clip on one side so that the force of pulling out the axle would allow the clip to compress so that you could pull the axle out.

Wait, Your saying the problem IS NOT that the clip cant retian the axle but that you want to bevel it to make it easier to be removed in the future? Thats not what i understood and that is not an issue so much.

Personally the right type of prybar solves that. I have found duckbill prybars solve the common whining about removing axles.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Wait, Your saying the problem IS NOT that the clip cant retian the axle but that you want to bevel it to make it easier to be removed in the future? Thats not what i understood and that is not an issue so much. Personally the right type of prybar solves that. I have found duckbill prybars solve the common whining about removing axles. Terry

A large crecent wrench works well, too.

from what i have read the issue is, when trying to remove the axle the c clip will break inside the lsd.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Wait, Your saying the problem IS NOT that the clip cant retian the axle but that you want to bevel it to make it easier to be removed in the future?.......Personally the right type of prybar solves that. I have found duckbill prybars solve the common whining about removing axles.

Not the normal "damn axle stuck in there" situation. While yes it is the conflict point, there is more to it than just "making that fucker come out" (believe me, I've had my share of practice on axles. From Acuras to VW's).

Because I prefit everything, I was able to get the axle stuck while in a pretty good position; out of the car. Had the OBX split in half and could actually seen the end of the axle and the gear that it was stuck in. I put it in a vise and tried lots of my tricks to get it out. None worked. Couldn't collapse the clip. I ended up going to my buddy's machine shop, where we put in his (IDK 60 ton) press. We pressed on it up to 20 tons on the gauge until it finally gave way like this:



If you look at the top of the stub axle, you can see that the spring clip sheared off the top splines (fortunately not hurting the OBX).

It appears that the clip does not have the ramp to allow it to collapse. Therefore, if using the clips, you would need to grind the ramp onto the clip so that it would ride down the bevel and collapse.

MB

Ok, compare it to yuor stock Diff....whats different. Its not the clip so, we need to look into what it would take to make it fit like the stocker. If a machine shop is involved then thats what it takes to make this a proper unit. Axles flopping around is only going to cause increased wear and other issues related to leaking and caused by leaking.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Ok, compare it to yuor stock Diff....whats different.

Fucker!

Yeah, how simple would that have been? I got thousands of stocker diffs kickin' around and I didn't make the comparison; duh.

Eh, can't think of everything. The consensus is that the gear that the stub fits through is not beveled for the spring clip. When I looked at mine, it appeared to have a bevel, but I'm guessing that the bevel was not enough. Wish I had just compared to stock.

OEM side gear




OBX side gear

Originally posted by Locke_db
OBX side gear

Nice. Thanks Locke saved me some time (doing doubles around christmas time for cash).

My OBX actually has a little bit of a bevel on the top of the spline start. But nothing like the OEM. Looking at that pic, you will never get the spring to compress in the OBX (unless, of course, you bevel the clip).

That wouldnt be hard to correct. Beveling the splibnes would be better in my opinion than choosing to have extra parts when installing axles. A simple cutting stone and cutting oil will help bevel the end of the splines.

OK update time;

Engine rebuilt, 3.55 tranny in etc. Installed DSS axles. Started to pour in tanny fluid (which, incidentally, I'm using Mobil 1 high mileage. I'll test it out). Get a quart in and she starts pouring out on the passenger side. Get under and see that it's not quite all the way in (hmm, I thought it was when I installed it). Fart around and get it in more. Fill it up and take her for a spin. Get back see a drip under there. Gotta head out for Xmas stuff so I put a container under and this is what I see the next morning;



Just about a quart in the bottom. That's not a slight leak!

Crap, axle shoulder is no longer in. Pull out axle. Do some measure comparison to find that the DSS inner hub shoulder is actually smaller than stock (the green hub is stock).



Gotta deal with them on that.

Now I want to put in a beveled spring, but I figured for the sake of experiment, I gotta go with stock, no clip now. Slide that in there. Take her for a spin. No leaks yet.

And that's where we are now. We'll see how it progresses.

As for the OBX handling; I can definitely feel her pull more through corners. Get no difference on straightaways. No noises or other problems.

That's interesting that you have that problem. The DSS axles in my car fit like a champ. The only leak I have are the cheap axle seals from CarQuest that I need to replace.

Originally posted by freelancefool
That's interesting that you have that problem. The DSS axles in my car fit like a champ. The only leak I have are the cheap axle seals from CarQuest that I need to replace.

Are you sure its not your expensive-ass axles, lol?

Funny thing. When I ordered my axles, it took awhile to get them. I called looking for them, and I got (what I thought) was a song and dance about the hubs coming in wrong. Curious. This was about 3 months ago.

The overall length is 3/8 shorter than the stockers. More importantly, the shoulder is 1/8 smaller than stock. The spline shaft is 1/8 shorter than stock. Here's a pic comparison;



This would probably not be an issue if I was using clips though.

Thats normal. With the clip the axles fit like stock and the fact its shorter is compensated by the adjustability of the inner joint. DSS is prolly going to tell you where to go since your not using the axle clip. Your relying on the fitment of the axle to keep the inner stub pushed into the diff.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
DSS is prolly going to tell you where to go since your not using the axle clip.

Who says that I'm not using the inner clip......

Which may be a moot point now. Good news, bad news.

The good news is - My axles don't leak......

The bad news is ......unless I do a hole shot x(

Yup, brought it over my buddy's shop to check the contact strips. Really nice! Straight identical starting dig with identical lengths. Both lines the same amount of rubber. Like you see in the cartoons.

Go back to my car after examining the strips. Look under to see a small puddle. The force/stress of the holeshot must have pushed the shoulder past the seal. Cleaned her up and drove her home and no more leak (yes I had fluid in there).

Well, I guess that means I got something to do this weekend. Gonna bevel the clips and put them in. But, man. I really like the action of the OBX LSD. Just pulls you through the twisties (I didn't take it out that hard, just to put her to the test). While the ERT does fine on the straight ahead, the OBX feels so much better in the twisties.

And the beat goes on......

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by freelancefool That's interesting that you have that problem. The DSS axles in my car fit like a champ. The only leak I have are the cheap axle seals from CarQuest that I need to replace.

Are you sure its not your expensive-ass axles, lol?

Positive. It didn't leak when I had OEM seals in the transmission. When I pulled the tranny to replace the throwout bearing I used CarQuest seals and it has been leaking since then.

I think I’ve said this before on another thread but why not lath a bevel into the gear (essentially finish the machine work that the factory didn't do) Dont have a lath? send me your gear and I will put bevel it out for you.