So I'm not to sure what the problem is but I've narrowed it to the clutch or tranny. Here's the story:

I went out on a highway with minimum traffic to tune my turbo to hit 15 psi without falling off. This consisted of several pull over to the side of the roads to tinker with something new and plenty of smoke breaks. Everytime I came from the side of the road I got on it hard. The engine I know can handle it. Well we got it tuned correctly and drove into town. I stopped at a grocery store for a drink. When I came back I started my car but couldn't get into ANY gear. I turned it off and pumped the clutch (it would go into any gear when the car was off) but that didn't work either. It would be real jumpy when I started the car too, low rpms to go with that. To get home I managed to take some residental roads all while in first gear. I let it cool for about 4 hours and then it rode fine with no issues.

Sorry for the long story, but does anyone know what could be the problem? It has a spec stage 4 clutch and a rebuilt 3.55 tranny. TIA.

did you get my pm bro? Sounds like it will be related to your slave/master cylinder, like mine was. Hopefully its fixed by now since you havent replied :thumbsup

Didn't even notice you sent that.

Well there isn't any leaking going on. My carpet is fine. Could the slave cylinder be going bad without leaking?

Hmm lift the carpet, thats exactly what I had said, and there was a big-O stain under there. Have you checked for leakage by the fire wall? The surest way to diagnose this is to have some one press the clutch while you look at the arm that pushes on the MASTER cylinder, if it doesnt move, or moves VERY LITTLE, the slave is the culprit. If it moves but you STILL cant change gears, the master might be it. Bleed the whole system, if it fixes it only temporaryly one of the cylinders is the cause for sure.

Awsome thanks for the help. As soon as I get the car back from the shop I'll check those cylinders out.

What would be the downside to driving around with it? I've only had the gearbox lock up like that about 3-4 times.

A burning clutch (if you manage to change the gears maybe), some jerkiness. I dont think the tranny can suffer anything, you could try to start it in 2nd and drive home a lil faster.

You could be cool and learn tow to time your shifts and rev match. If I feel like it I can do everything but sit at a light without using the clutch

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
You could be cool and learn tow to time your shifts and rev match.

Can I do that with a bad slave and/or master cylinder? I thought you could only do that when your clutch goes out. Maybe I'm just not cool enough.

Ok, so I got my trans ALL back together.. everything is running now, no more knocking. Now this is the problem I'm having.. same as this guy. Only difference, when you turn the car on, clutch has to be ALL the way JAMMED to the floormat. Also, when on it makes a funny, kind of squeaking noise, if you push in like 2 inches, noise goes away. However, when trying to shift into gear, same problem as these guys, BUT, if you pump the clutch real quick like 5 times or so, she goes right in, when moving, shifts just fine. My clutch is brand new, so it's not worn out, it's a modular, so I don't see how it might be seated wrong at all. We bled the lines for an hour, air kept coming out, then for like 8 tries, no air, only fluid. took for EVER to build up that pressure too. Tried replacing slave, Checker gave me one with the bolt holes on the opposite side, so I brought it back. When I checked slave on mine again, it had pressure both going in and coming out, I ASSUMRE it's ok, but not sure. When pressing the clutch in, you can see the slave cyl, push the fork. Not a considerable amount, but it does a little. Havent checked the master. Didn't know what it was or where it was until I got back here and started reading, I got the next 2 days off, and ideas where else to look?? Thank you in advance..

Hmm seems that you did everything right. The fact that you said you need to push the pedal ALL the way to the floor for it to even go in makes me think it doesnt have enough pressure. Are you sure the cap on the resevoir is nice and tight? It may be possibly allowing air in one way. Did you use DOT3 fluid? Have you checked the Master cylinder for leaks? Is any fluid spilled on/underneath the drivers carpet near the pedal?

Try pushing the rod that goes into the master cylinder with your hand. Thats how I bled my clutch last time, since I didnt have any one to help me. You'll get an idea how much the slave is supposed to make it move.

Cap is tight. I used DOT3. I checked the Master, but I don't really know what I'm lookin for. I didn't see any fluid ON the carpet, or under it, BUT the rubber part to the Master appears a bit moist?!?! And you did what with the rod? You just pushed it in? From inside or out of the car? I mean how did you bleed it solo. Tomorrow I will have some free time. I was also told to check the lines, Although I don't think they are leaking, it won't hurt to rule out a few more parts.
But, if it might be the slave allowing the air in, maybe that could be why it doesn't move all the way?!?! I don't know, I'll check it all tomorrow, it's 5 past midnight and I got to go back over to work. Thank you for your help:)

Originally posted by edxmon
Hmm seems that you did everything right. The fact that you said you need to push the pedal ALL the way to the floor for it to even go in makes me think it doesnt have enough pressure. Are you sure the cap on the resevoir is nice and tight? It may be possibly allowing air in one way. Did you use DOT3 fluid? Have you checked the Master cylinder for leaks? Is any fluid spilled on/underneath the drivers carpet near the pedal? Try pushing the rod that goes into the master cylinder with your hand. Thats how I bled my clutch last time, since I didnt have any one to help me. You'll get an idea how much the slave is supposed to make it move.

how did I bleed it solo? Well, usually you need some one to press the pedal which compresses the cylinder that is right on the firewall, which in turn pushes the rod its connected to. Since I didnt have a helper I just leaned on the engine bay pushed directly on the rod with one hand and tightened/loosened the bleeder screw with the other. It was pretty easy actually :)