I had been having shifting issues for the last few days when I decided to get off my lazy ass and check the Slave Cylinder, and sure enough it was leaking inside the boot. So after dealing with the messed up auto part systems and only being presented with turbo cylinders, I figured out that I would be better suited to cross reference the number which matched the part number for the Slave Cylinder out of a 1995 Dodge Avenger. I recieved it today from Advanced Auto, installed it and after about 30 minutes of bleeding the hydraulic system, I can blatantly see the cylinder push the release fork. Turn the car on and the damn thing wont go into gear WTF. I converted the car and Ive been through this process before. At least it went into gear before I took on this job.

Im trying to prevent my paranoia from kicking in, but I think the fork clipped on the TOB or something, so it couldnt have popped off somehow, right?? besides the rubber thing on the fork is intact...

Am I just not bleeding it enough? Is that not the right cylinder? It is like 1/16 in shorter.... but that may be because the original is messed up :shrug
Has anyone had an issue with a slave cylinder from Advanced Auto or anywhere aftermarket?
Maybe I should return the other one and submit to satan.... $100 F**K!

Hey I had a similar problem a while ago, what is was, was my slave cylinder wasn't bolted in properly, the mounts on the tranny were messed up and when I pushed the clutch in it would just push against the fork and move the slave cylinder, you could have someone push your clutch in and see whats going on under there, also pull back the rubber book around the fork and shine a light into the tranny to see whats going on.

Well I bled it again this morning and it went into gear with a little force once and then no more. I also pulled the rubber off of the fork and it appears to be clipped in/onto the TOB somehow and in one piece, so thats good.

I ordered a Beck Arnley rebuild kit which should be in tomorrow Maybe the new cylinder doesnt have as much throw as the old one did??
This reminds me of power-steering all over again...it took 4 times before I got a pump that worked right....

Does anybody know how to rebuild the Slave Cylinder? Im sure its cake, but will I need anything special or are there any tips that would prevent me from breaking it (just like everything else I touch) and help the process go as smooth as possible?

I searched and couldnt find any rebuild instructions except for the obvious "put it back together the opposite way you took it out...."
If I missed the write-up the link will suffice too :-)
Thanks
-Adria

If you ordered the kits from Advance, your going to get all the wrong kits. Advance cannot get the correct rebuild kit for our slave. I tried for a week and a half and ordered every kit they had.

Someone said they tried the kit from pepboys and it worked.
Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
If you ordered the kits from Advance, your going to get all the wrong kits. Advance cannot get the correct rebuild kit for our slave. I tried for a week and a half and ordered every kit they had.

I had the same problem. I even ordered an entire slave cylinder from them but couldn't install it because the bleeder valve hit the center member.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
If you ordered the kits from Advance, your going to get all the wrong kits. Advance cannot get the correct rebuild kit for our slave. I tried for a week and a half and ordered every kit they had. Someone said they tried the kit from pepboys and it worked. Terry

Napa has the right slave rebuilds as well. Check there, if nowhere else.

Odds are it is just the wrong part. If for some reason it's not and your slave cylinder is pushing the fork and holding it, it's probably your clutch. I had the same problem, I even replaced my slave cylinder with a new one from mitsu, but it ended up being a combination of the clutch and probably the pivot ball. I pulled the tranny this past weekend and noticed that the ball had a chip missing out of the top of it to where the metal shaft in the middle was showing. Also the clutch fingers had been worn down so much from where the throwout bearing rides against them that they were almost paper thin. It had 150k on it.