The threaded bolt holes didn't line up with the coresponding holes on the drive plate. The first bolt was fine, but then the next three went from roughly 1/8" to 1/4" off. I probably should've sent the POS back to South Bend but I elected to take a die grinder and notch the holes wider on the drive plate. Hopefully it'll still be centered once we get the tranny up in there. If the tranny-to-block bolts line up just fine then it should be ok. If not then we'll get our money back and get a ClutchMasters. $500 for a clutch and it should NOT be this much trouble to install. I won't buy from South Bend again, regardless of how well this clutch performs.

On a side note, anyone know where I can score some Texaco MTX tranny fluid? We used that for a few years before this clutch install and it worked great, so I'd like to continue using it. All of our Texaco stations changed to Shell a while back.

You're sure that the holes weren't just offset, maybe? So it only bolts together one way? Because they are...

Originally posted by DarkOne
You're sure that the holes weren't just offset, maybe? So it only bolts together one way? Because they are...

Are they? I tried spinning it several times to align the holes differently, but to no avail. There's nothing specifically marked that would have led me to assume it aligns one way only. There's a couple yellow marks to either side of one bolt hole on the clutch, then there's a green mark on one of the drive plate bolts. I tried to match those first but that didn't work. The Chiltons didn't specify anything either. After much frustration I gave up and broke out the die grinder.

Yeah, Cody.. they're offset so that it can only be mounted one way. Makes it a PITA when you've got it in the car.. install a bolt, turn, check alignment .. back it up, pull the bolt, turn, install the bolt, turn, check alignment..

Might wanna fix it and get a new flexplate. If there's any play at all in the bolts, the flexplate will destroy itself (and take the trans with it) in short order...

Yeah, I've been regretting taking the die grinder to it. I just got pissed and quit thinking things through. I'll replace the drive plate and start over. I guess I'll get a new rear main seal in there too while I'm at it.
Thnaks for the input!

Originally posted by DSMxTSi
The threaded bolt holes didn't line up with the coresponding holes on the drive plate. The first bolt was fine, but then the next three went from roughly 1/8" to 1/4" off. I probably should've sent the POS back to South Bend but I elected to take a die grinder and notch the holes wider on the drive plate. Hopefully it'll still be centered once we get the tranny up in there. If the tranny-to-block bolts line up just fine then it should be ok. If not then we'll get our money back and get a ClutchMasters. $500 for a clutch and it should NOT be this much trouble to install. I won't buy from South Bend again, regardless of how well this clutch performs.

Cody- I hope you don't really mean this. Your south bend unit is a top notch quality clutch back by a full service company.

Any time you have a problem with anything you can call us and we will help.

Please don't install that unit after grinding on it. I will be glad to replace it for you no charge.

Give me a call and I get you fixed up.1-800-988-4345

Andy Pyfer V.P.

Originally posted by andy_sbclutch
Cody- I hope you don't really mean this. Your south bend unit is a top notch quality clutch back by a full service company. Any time you have a problem with anything you can call us and we will help. Please don't install that unit after grinding on it. I will be glad to replace it for you no charge. Give me a call and I get you fixed up.1-800-988-4345 Andy Pyfer V.P.

Yeah, I'd go back and edit the "POS" and "not buying anything from South Bend" comments but the editing time has expired. Sorry about that Andy. Thanks for replying, shows that you definately stand by your products.
I didn't take the die grinder to the clutch, just the drive plate. So I'll be replacing the drive plate just as soon as I find one.
I still don't see anything on the car, clutch, or in the Chilton's manual regarding installing a clutch with respect to the hole alignment. :shrug

Originally posted by DSMxTSi
I still don't see anything on the car, clutch, or in the Chilton's manual regarding installing a clutch with respect to the hole alignment. :shrug

I don't think the FSM even mentions it in any form that sticks out in my mind, but i assure you, they are offset for the balance. Just like the flexplate bolts are offset so that it can only be installed one way to the crank...

Originally posted by DSMxTSi

Originally posted by andy_sbclutch Cody- I hope you don't really mean this. Your south bend unit is a top notch quality clutch back by a full service company. Any time you have a problem with anything you can call us and we will help. Please don't install that unit after grinding on it. I will be glad to replace it for you no charge. Give me a call and I get you fixed up.1-800-988-4345 Andy Pyfer V.P.

Yeah, I'd go back and edit the "POS" and "not buying anything from South Bend" comments but the editing time has expired. Sorry about that Andy. Thanks for replying, shows that you definately stand by your products. I didn't take the die grinder to the clutch, just the drive plate. So I'll be replacing the drive plate just as soon as I find one. I still don't see anything on the car, clutch, or in the Chilton's manual regarding installing a clutch with respect to the hole alignment. :shrug

I would still like to help maybe you could send some pics.

Originally posted by andy_sbclutch
I would still like to help maybe you could send some pics.

I'll send some pics just as soon as I get the old flex plate off. (I've been calling it drive plate by habit, but it appears to be more commonly referred to as flex plate.) I've found a flex plate from an automatic 2gnt, been told that they are the same. Should have it tonight and get to work on it maybe tomorrow. I work nights and watch my 2 kids all day so I don't get out to the garage as much as I used to.

I had this problem on my ATX when changing a torque converter. I was like "WTF the bolt holes do not line up" I was getting pissed but then I cooled down and tried again and sure enough I got em lined up. You should be alright once you get a new flexplate.

I'm running the SBC OFE series clutch and I am absolutely 100% happy with it. SBC is a great company they won't screw you over.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1030

Originally posted by xcasbonx
I'm running the SBC OFE series clutch and I am absolutely 100% happy with it. SBC is a great company they won't screw you over.

Cool, I can't wait to see how it performs. We'll break it in first, then throw the turbo kit on, then eventually take it to the track this spring.

Yeah same deal here the first time I replaced the clutch in mine. CM stage 3 and I kept getting progressively angrier that I couldn't get it aligned. but every time I've had to remove it since I just mark one of the Bolt holes on the flexplate and the clutch to realign it later.

-Kevin

The clutch has been in for a little while. Everything seems good. Still needs broken in plus a couple other technical problems need attention first, then we can really see how this thing is going to be.
I've gotten used to the super soft pedal feel, though I wish it was heavier. Jenni doesn't like it at all, but maybe she just has to get used to it.

Originally posted by DSMxTSi
The clutch has been in for a little while. Everything seems good. Still needs broken in plus a couple other technical problems need attention first, then we can really see how this thing is going to be. I've gotten used to the super soft pedal feel, though I wish it was heavier. Jenni doesn't like it at all, but maybe she just has to get used to it.

That'll go away within about 500 miles. They get heavier as they break in.

Cody, Did you buy the dxd series for the 96-02 2L??

I'm on the page and I'm not sure which one to buy.

This is the only listing saying n/T but mines a 95

96-02 2.0 NT w/Lt. Wt. Flywheel N/A $950.00


link

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

Just email andy tellin him what you're lookin for, he'll hook ya up. I just got my SS OFE in the mail yesterday...thanks freddy :thumbsup

Originally posted by XMasta19
Just email andy tellin him what you're lookin for, he'll hook ya up. I just got my SS OFE in the mail yesterday...thanks freddy :thumbsup

how much did you end up paying shipped?

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by XMasta19 Just email andy tellin him what you're lookin for, he'll hook ya up. I just got my SS OFE in the mail yesterday...thanks freddy :thumbsup

how much did you end up paying shipped?

$300 ;)

Originally posted by XMasta19

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by XMasta19 Just email andy tellin him what you're lookin for, he'll hook ya up. I just got my SS OFE in the mail yesterday...thanks freddy :thumbsup

how much did you end up paying shipped?

$300 ;)

Sweet, Thats what I'm talkin 'bout :)

hellz yeah y0....FINALLY got a tranny on the way bishes :cheers

Originally posted by Blizare
Cody, Did you buy the dxd series for the 96-02 2L?? I'm on the page and I'm not sure which one to buy. This is the only listing saying n/T but mines a 95 96-02 2.0 NT w/Lt. Wt. Flywheel N/A $950.00 link http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

Sorry, just saw your reply.

We also got the OFE clutch and I think it was around $300 shipped. That was earlier last year, can't remember for sure but 300 sounds about right.
Talking to Andy directly is the best thing and he can hook you up with whatever you need.
We've been driving it now for about 2 weeks, 350 miles, and no problems at all. It has stiffened up a bit but is still lighter than our stock Spyder's clutch. I'm used to it now but it'll feel odd once I start driving the 1G with heavy RPS stage 2 clutch.

Originally posted by DSMxTSi

Originally posted by Blizare Cody, Did you buy the dxd series for the 96-02 2L?? I'm on the page and I'm not sure which one to buy. This is the only listing saying n/T but mines a 95 96-02 2.0 NT w/Lt. Wt. Flywheel N/A $950.00 link http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

Sorry, just saw your reply. We also got the OFE clutch and I think it was around $300 shipped. That was earlier last year, can't remember for sure but 300 sounds about right. Talking to Andy directly is the best thing and he can hook you up with whatever you need. We've been driving it now for about 2 weeks, 350 miles, and no problems at all. It has stiffened up a bit but is still lighter than our stock Spyder's clutch. I'm used to it now but it'll feel odd once I start driving the 1G with heavy RPS stage 2 clutch.

With the OFE is is better than stock? I guess clamping force cause I'm only running 9psi but I need something stronger than stock but I'm not looking for 1 700 dollar clutch or anything. :P

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by DSMxTSi

Originally posted by Blizare Cody, Did you buy the dxd series for the 96-02 2L?? I'm on the page and I'm not sure which one to buy. This is the only listing saying n/T but mines a 95 96-02 2.0 NT w/Lt. Wt. Flywheel N/A $950.00 link http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

Sorry, just saw your reply. We also got the OFE clutch and I think it was around $300 shipped. That was earlier last year, can't remember for sure but 300 sounds about right. Talking to Andy directly is the best thing and he can hook you up with whatever you need. We've been driving it now for about 2 weeks, 350 miles, and no problems at all. It has stiffened up a bit but is still lighter than our stock Spyder's clutch. I'm used to it now but it'll feel odd once I start driving the 1G with heavy RPS stage 2 clutch.

With the OFE is is better than stock? I guess clamping force cause I'm only running 9psi but I need something stronger than stock but I'm not looking for 1 700 dollar clutch or anything. :P

The OFE is a stage 3 clutch and will work with any stage 3 upgrade, turbos included.