Please post any known problems you've had with your Spec stage 3, i'm going to link this page to David Norton at SPEC so he can understand our frustrations.

My problem:

After 10K miles or so, I can no longer go into gear from a stop. the clutch does not disengage entirely making the car extremely annoying to drive daily, with me having to rev it up to like 3K before it even goes in gear. No changes to the hydraulic system have been made whatsoever and the pedal pressure is just fine. Basically it worked fine then all the sudden it just crapped out and stopped disengaging.

I've installed 3 of SPEC's stage 3 clutch in my own car. At first they would work properly and then, just as you described Josh, the clutch would not fully disengage with the pedal fully depressed. The first time this happened, I replaced EVERYTHING including the clutch pedal, master cylinder, slave cylinder, all lines, clutch fork, throw-out bearing, etc. Literally everything. The problem was the clutch. Put in another SPEC stage 3 and few months later it started happening again. Also happened a third time. There's definetely a flaw in the pressure plate design. I said fuck it and installed a Clutch Masters stage 4 and haven't had a single problem since. I recently had a guy bring me his car for repair because his clutch was doing the same thing to him. Turned out to be a SPEC stage 3. Replaced that with a CM stage 4 also and everything's been great. These 420A/NVT350 SPEC clutches are very notorious for this problem, as SPEC knows it.

i had the spec stage 3 also. maybe 10k miles as well. and when i drove from florida to chicago. it went out in chicago after a 2nd gear to 3rd gear pull. clutch wouldnt disengage at all. took it apart and looked fine. some peices were off the clutch in the area around the springs. i know it wasnt the tranny, cause i stuck the spec stage 5 in there and it worked fine. i hope this clutch dosent go, cause i wont return again.


i just threw the thign away due to the lack luster responce when i called spec. the guy knew nothing.

Heh... Have you seen my old thread?

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=34&topic_id=3391&mesg_id=3391&page=6

The 2 SPEC products that I had in my bellhousing BOTH failed, at different times. The one of the springs on the friction disk fell out at an auto-x event after crossing the line, I went from full boost (about 10 PSI at the time) to 0% throttle in a fraction of a second, near redline, while leaving it in gear. Maybe that had something to do with it, I'm not sure. The dislodged spring made it impossible for me to disengage the clutch, I was lucky a friend of mine had AAA which I used to get a free tow home. When I replaced the broken disk with a new ClutchMasters friction disk the pressure plate broke less than a week after I got it back together. Some people don't have any problems with SPEC stuff, but I think it's garbage.

After about 12000 miles with my spec stage 3, it began to become difficult to put it in first gear at a stop, then it basically became impossible to put in gear without revving. I adjusted the clutch master rod all the way out to get the most travel out of the clutch slave and it resolved the issue for about 500 miles and now I am back to the same crap again where I have to rev to get in gear. I can hear that the clutch is not fully disengaging when the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor. basically a pain in the ass.

lates
james

This must be a problem soley with the stage 3. I've put on over 10k miles on my stage 2 with no sign of problems. The combination of the spec stage 2 and the Retrofit is amazing for a full street car. Do they use a different plate combination for the stage 3 and stage 2? I've spoke with several people with stage 2 and so far no problems (knocks on wood). I will say the TOB that was included in the stage 2 was not up to par when it came to the tabs, after upgrading to the new TOB it works great.

one of the springs in my spec stage 3 came lose causing shifting problems,i replaceded with a spec stage 4 and its been working great so far.

Same exact problems with the spec stage 4 after 10k.

I Replaced my clutch this weekend and I found the defective part on the spec clutch that causes our problem.

I want to know if all the people with this problem is seeing it on clutches using the luk pressure plate. this is the one that lookes like it has ramps on the cover and it has 2 sets of fingers that the TO bearing would press on.

This cover also has 3 coil springs on the outside in a circular pattern evenly spaced.

well this is what I found out.

The LUK clutch acutally has a compensating feature to keep the diaphram spring fingers in the same location regardless of the wear on the flywheel, disk and pressure plate. this is a disk that has a rotational camming action that works against the blue cover "ramps". what this thing is "supposed" to do from what i can tell, is that every time you step on the clutch the plate will rotate from the pressure of the 3 springs pushing it which would take up the slack between the diaphram spring and the cover. it is the actual part that the spring pivots on, or it presses on this pivot. well, its basically a wear compensator. On my clutch. the areas where the 3 springs press on the plate were totally bent outta wack so the plate could not rotate, therefore not allowing the cam function to take up the slack. I kept adjusting my clutch pedal for more throw. if the cam assembly does not work the diaphram spring fingers will continue to come out of the cover towards the engine pressing on the TO bearing and eventually you will run out of Slave cylinder throw and the clutch will not disengage.
I know i received this clutch like this because the paint on the springs and the associated assembly had not been disturbed, even after 10k miles.

I wonder if SPEC will do anything for us on this. It looks like it was due to poor assembly and quality control at SPEC.

the pressure plate surface, disk, and flywheel are all in great condition. I bent all the crap back into place where it should be and put some pressure on the clutch and I saw the cam plate rotate into the proper position.

lates
James

i'm not sure how many miles i put on my old stage 3 but it was not very much... like 6-8 months of driving, when mine was totaly destroyed. not crazy racing or anything either, mostly just stop and go...

no problems yet with my PT cruiser clutch (knock on wood)

WTB: Sport Bike


http://www.geocities.com/shadyporshe851proof/frame_content/indexframe.html

mods: PT Cruiser clutch, 60mm tb, crank scraper, CAI, 17"s, Custom Front bumper, FU + RU Strut Bars

Stuff yet to put on: Turbo Wint, Lowering Kit...

hey james, if you could please....post some pictures of your clutch if you havent sent it back already. i got mine out and replaced it and its all working marvelously now, so it was definately the clutch like i suspected. im noticing some small things on the clutch itself and had my drivetrain teacher take a look at it, and im wondering if some of the same things exist on your clutch.

let me know if you can post some pics, and if not...e-mail them to me. id really appeciate it, and im pretty anxious to get to the root of this problem.

turbo8u@gmail.com

I realize this is an old thread, but I found it during a search.

I just pulled my spec stage 3 clutch out this weekend. Car would often not go into gear, and when the clutch pedal was pushed in, I had the most gawdawful and loud rattling noise Ive heard the car make.

Pull the clutch out, and sounds like the springs in the clutch are broken, because they are rattling around if you shake the cluth.

Has SPEC been any help to those of us with problem with the clutch? Also, has anyone who went with the spec stage 4 had any problems there? In my case, im hoping the unsprung hub will prevent this from happening again.

hey ryan, i broke my shitty spec stg3 clutch as i posted. and so far the spec stage 5 has held up to my abuse.

i just installed a spec stage 3. thanks guys for making me a proud spec clutch owner. this thing better last me at least a year(30k). i guess i should have searched first?. me = f'qing newb.

mine has been able to hold up so far, but i dont drive my car alot, or much of a distance. i've had it for about 1/2 year, but only 5k at most.

the problem i have is the TOB, the mechanic used the old one because i didnt get one. but exile racing says they can get me one for $30 :|

Ordered a stage 4 today from ERT. Hopefully have better luck with this one.

Does anyone know if its possible to repair/replace the clutch springs as needed? If spec wont reemburse me for the stage 3, it might be nice to fix the springs and sell the stage 3 to help recoup some of that cost. It still grabd and holds great, just has a spring rattling around inside now.

UPDATE for those who don't already know
...just received email from SPEC after bringing this issue up with them.

Original email from XMasta19
I've been reading about problems with the design in the Stage 3 clutches for the 420a non-turbo eclipse. After about 10k miles or so, they almost all seem to have difficulties. I haven't seemed to find anything about the issue being resolved or worked out. I was wondering if the Stage 2 or possibly 2+ is good enough for the 420a with a bolt-on turbo kit running upwards of 15psi and 300 or so hp to the wheels.

David Norton
S.P.E.C., inc
800-828-4379
sales@specclutch.com
The st2+ would be great. The issues have been resolved. The 420A has no pilot bearing, so the input shaft moves laterally more than most applications. We had never seen any issues til recently, so we had to spend some time and money figuring out what was actually happening, because we were only seeing this on the Neon and Eclipse 420A and no other of our 500 applications. We went down on the hardness of our spring covers to add flexibility so that the hub would move with the input shafts and that fixed it. It was never a strength issue-the 420A hub is the same one we use in 1000 hp cars. It was a flexibility/hardness thing that just popped up out of nowhere. Our guess was the heat treating was making the spring covers too hard.

hmm now how do we know if we got this updated clutch? Is Spec willing to replace the old clutches? i just bought one :P

Another Update:

XMasta19
So how do u know if you have the new design and not the old? Also, what
steps will be taken to have the old defective clutches replaced for those who may have purchased them?

David Norton
We'd have to see a pic to tell. But they have also not been out so long, so purchase date would tell us. We are replacing them for those who have had the covers crack.

.....I guess I'll be ordering one soon enough :shrug

you do some great work masta....helpin everyone out with this...thanx

I just do what I do hehe...still not an old school guy around here by far, but I try to make my mark ;)

Anywho, talkin with Andy at South Bend seems to be the way to go nowadays...good chit :thumbsup

i am just getting into this thread because i just realized that my tranny is already out and i have a stage 3 that i bought last year

should i be worried

it only has about 4k miles on it but so far no problems

yeah bro...you're more than likely gonna fall victim to the infamous spec 3 problem. who knows though, maybe you'll get lucky.

the only problem I've noticed is the shitty engagement point. I have to push the clutch to the floor in order for it to engage. :-(