How do you guys tighten theese? I read 55ft.lb.s is that correct? I couldnt get the 18mm and the torque wrench on there for the life of me.

Seeing as some of them come out and destroy flexplates... I comeplete covers the bolts in red loctite and tightened it with a wrench as much as i could. Is that enough?

Originally posted by Chamuko
How do you guys tighten theese? I read 55ft.lb.s is that correct? I couldnt get the 18mm and the torque wrench on there for the life of me. Seeing as some of them come out and destroy flexplates... I comeplete covers the bolts in red loctite and tightened it with a wrench as much as i could. Is that enough?

that should be more than enough. you're supposed to use blue loc-tite. the red stuff is damn near permanant, you have to heat the hell out of it to get it to give. that sounds like it's going to be fun

eh.... should be fun then.

after seeing what happened to driggs and that was with blue loctite.

Read the loctite labels. blue= VC and oil pan Red = tranny stuff. so I said F it...might as well.

Originally posted by Chamuko
eh.... should be fun then. after seeing what happened to driggs and that was with blue loctite. Read the loctite labels. blue= VC and oil pan Red = tranny stuff. so I said F it...might as well.

I think his came out because we didn't chase the threads before installing them. That clutch sat for 6 months and had some surface rust on it. Probably not the best surface to promote adhesion.

Iput a 6-sided 18mm wrench on them, hand tighten, and then beat the wrench with a hammer for that added "never coming out" torque.

Originally posted by DarkOne
Iput a 6-sided 18mm wrench on them, hand tighten, and then beat the wrench with a hammer for that added "never coming out" torque.

Sounds like my "calibrated elbow" torque wrench.

Rated up to TAF. }(

I found if you have the flexplate turned so the bolt is towards the front of the car, and the wrench nearly level with the ground, pointing towards the rear of the car, you can smack it with a mallet really well.

The opposing force of the wrench heading upwards, and the flexplate turning downwards, will keep it from spinning around while you tighten it down.

I used blue loctite on all mine, never chased the threads. Just beat em all until they wouldnt turn anymore. Then went around and re-tried all 4 again just to be sure.

nah your both wrong. The torque pipe owns all.

well yeah, that and a long ass breaker bar on the crank bolt held it pretty good from moving.

red loctited nthe hell out of em and tightened with the wrench , then went around with the wrnech and a 1ft piece of pipe and gave it the old governator treatment.

thinki I should try and take em off to make sure the red loctite isnt too muich and use blue instead>?

i agree with the pipe trick. i also use the elbow click to tell torque specs. ive used blue and none, both have held.

Sorry to bring up an old thread but questions..

I was tightening the bolts pretty good and stripped at the end. I got them back in pretty good with red locktight.

Should i bag it and replace the clutch?

Thanks for the opinions


Nick
97RS

Tough call. Stripped threads or stripped the bolt head?

If it's the head, that's why I use a six-sided wrench.

Looks like i pulled thread off the inside of the clutch.


Nick
97RS

My logic is if I can get them OFF with a 18 mm gear wrench (with a breaker bar on the crank bolt) then I can put them on with it :). Just a dab of loctite red should be all that is needed on those bolts.

Originally posted by DarkOne
Iput a 6-sided 18mm wrench on them, hand tighten, and then beat the wrench with a hammer for that added "never coming out" torque.

exactly what I did, but I didn't use any loctite. had my 300 lb friend tighten them the best he could then once it was all together I got woried so i dropped the cross member and removed the acces plate and then hammered on a wrench until it turned the motor over enough to get the the next bolt.