ok I just spent the whole day trying to put that gay bellhousing back on and there all this old sealer on the new sealer now :( I didn't know it was so annoying putting that thing back on I stripped some threads trying to bolt it on (bad idea) and I broke the plastic thing that holds those bearings on the gear that spins with the diff. then I figure out you gotta play around with the linkage arm to get the rods to line up but now the bearing is jacked up so it won't line up, it keep on coming apart :( its not even cracked that badly, I'm sure if I get it in there somehow it'll still work but it won't so I'm wondering how much a new one costs? I can put the bellhousing on in 10 seconds if the bearing wasn't there x( ugh I'm so disapointed I didn't get it back together today I had to vent :P

$30.

Search for 'output shaft roller baring" .. look for a post by Kiku - it has the part number.

is it normal if the plastic ring is cracked that the bellhousing won't go on it like cracked but it still holds its form but the bearings are easy to pop out, cuz I must've tried like 20 times to get it in there and it would just get caught. So if I got a new one it would just slip on if I line up the rods first?

oh oh ok I found the post 30 bux for that arrghh this rebuild is overhaul is starting to cost me a lot O_0

anyway I'll put it here so I don't have to track it down for now :P thanx for the help dino :thumbsup , was it that rubber seal that was busted on your input shaft when you had hella oil in your bellhousing? would it be a good idea for me to change that?

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=15846&mesg_id=15846&listing_type=search

The input shaft seal is integrated into the input shaft sleeve and bearing on the T350.. it's one $30 piece. My bearings were fine, it was just the sealing lip that wore out. No need to replace it unless it leaks.

If the plastic cage on your roller bearing is cracked, you need a new one. That bearing is the hardest part about reassmbling a T350.. it likes to catch on the race and break. Check out www.armond30.com - Armond has some tips for installation that can help reduce the number of bearings you'll go through.

some shop replaced (i think that bearing) with a bushing in my transmission.... is that common? i mean it works great now.

I found it WAY easier to do it w/ the bell housing on the bottom and the gear case on top. The ring bearing opens up because the plastic isn’t the tightest. The rollers lean out and make it almost imposable to get the bell housing over the gear case. When you place the roller bearing into the bell housing side it can’t open/expand because it is in the sleeve on the bell housing side. All you have to do is lift the gear case and put it on just like you would do w/ the bell housing side. I spent hours on top of hours trying to get the bell housing to snap down. The shafts are easy once you get the hang of it but even if you get them lined up it wont snap down if the roller bearing is in the way.

Doing it w/ the bell housing down and gear case on top I can get it together in less than a minute.

Oh, you need to let the gear case sit on an angle for a few so all the oil can drain out. If you don’t you get oil dripping out when you turn the gear case upside down.

Another thing to remember is that the output shaft bearing is directional and will crack 100% of the time if you try to install the case with it upside down. One retaining ring on the cage is bigger than the other, and goes on bottom. If you get the bearing on right, the chances are much better that you won't crack it.

I rebuilt one of these T350's over the weekend. No fun..

hmm man I didn't know it was that complicated to seal the thing back up yeesh how annoying, who's done the carboard trick on armond's site? I thought about tying up the bearing with a thread so it won't split apart when I put the case on it. Doing it with the bellhousing on the bottom sounds lidicrous that thing is pretty heavy.

I swear chrysler they should have just made the bearing a metal cartridge bearing at least you can get rough on that one. or at least taper the edges so it'll guide itself in O_0 ne1 know any alternate source i can get one at that's cheaper? for now I'm just gonna call around various satan's and get the cheapest price.

oh oh yay I got the bellhousing back together using armonds carboard trick it really worx :thumbsup the retainer is still cracked in two places though I hope nothing happens to it, I means its all sealed up and there no place so I think it'll be fine oh well we'll just have to wait and find out ;(

NO1 stocks that bearing anywhere near me and they want to charge me 53 bux for it, that's ludicrous since I'll probably just break that one when I put it in also. Does ne1 know if they made a stronger revised bearing? I woulda figured they might have, haha I called a tranny shop and they don't sell bearings, jeez you'd think they could get me one since they rebuild all those trannies.