Ok guys, here goes. Tomorrow morning I begin installing my new pt clutch with my gf and a friend. I have the Haynes manual, and I have read some stuff on here, and I was wondering if you guys might have some insight, like your own how to's, tips, pointers, do's, or do not's, you know, those things. Any and all info to make this go as smooth as possible will be greatly appreciated, and points will be given!

Also, should I wait to put on my SS clutch line before putting everything back together, or can I do that with the tranny put together, but not ready to start?
Thanks!!

If you unbolt the lower suspension fork, lower control arm, and that crooked trailing arm/stabilizer arm thing, then you can pop the axles out of the tranny without taking them out of the hub. It saves a lot of time and trouble. All you need is 2 quarts of NV-T350 fluid to go back into it. I did mine by myself in about 6 hours, but I am pretty mechanically competent, and didn't run into any major problems. You can change the clutch hydraulic line at any time, you don't have to disconnect it in order to change the clutch. Just unbolt the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and the clamp that holds the line in place.

Cool, thanks for the info. Already got the clutch out, took about 5 hours with rusted bolts, looking for the right sockets, and never doing this before. It was fun, especially "bench pressing the tranny while trying to wiggle it around everything else. Now I need to put in the safing brackets, main seal, axle seals, tob and clutch, then put it all back together... fun.
What's the best kind of sealant to use on the bellhousing to gear housing, I've read something about anaerobic sealant, but where is the best place/kind to get it from. Also, is a sealant needed to mount the bellhousing to the motor?

Nope There is no sealent needed for the bell housing. and anreobic is correct for the gear box 2 bellhousing..

be carefull when putting the TOB in place and make sure that it's clipped good. the clips are easey to break, it's not a big deal if they do but it will make more noise...

as mentioned before be sure to use the tranny oil from the dealer, my favorite method of putting it is using a length of clear pvc flex tubing (available at home depot) and a regular funnel... fill just till it comes back out to be sure that u have enough in there.

other then that it's straight foward, it just takes time...

good luck and welcome to the pt clutch club

WTB: Dodge Omni


http://www.geocities.com/shadyporshe851proof/frame_content/indexframe.html

mods: PT Cruiser clutch + 60mm tb + crank scraper the normal mods, bass, lights n all the rest...

Clutch is on, tranny is apart for safing brackets which will be put on and back together tomorrow, and then tranny will be up on the motor. As far as an anaerobic seal, black RTV will work, right? That's what the guy at advanced auto parts said. Would any harm be done if I put a bead around the bellhousing also, just to keep unnecessary oil or whatever out (I had some stuff in mine, I'll post pics when I can... NASTY! Black sludge stuff everywhere... no wonder my clutch started slipping...)

Also, hi temp bearing grease will work for the tob right? That's what the haynes book said.
Thanks guys for all the extra info... more fun later tomorrow when I get to hoist the tranny back in there!

UPDATE
Ok, clutch in and tq'd up, bellhousing cleaned and reassembled to gearbox with safing brackets installed, and tob installed. All I have to say is the tranny is a major PITA to try to get back in place!!!!! :wallbash That thing doesn't want to go, but my friend and I only struggled with it for about an hour before we had to stop to go to work... more fun in the morning! :thumbsup

RTV is not anerobic sealer.....you may end up with a leak or you might get lucky. Permatex makes and anerobic sealer its called permatex hpv i think...its referred to as flange sealant and lists bearing caps and such on the back for uses.

or get loctite 518

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

All done and working!! :thumbsup Shifting is smoother, clutch grabs better (well, actually grabs) and just overall better. The only problem I'm having now is a CEL code 31, and the clutch pedal doesn't require hardly any pressure (it seems like it) to push it in. I haven't installed the SS clutch line yet, and haven't flushed the clutch hydraulics, but I'm assuming that it's all related to that.
Thanks for all the info and help guys!!

Originally posted by oMInOUs97RS
All done and working!! :thumbsup Shifting is smoother, clutch grabs better (well, actually grabs) and just overall better. The only problem I'm having now is a CEL code 31, and the clutch pedal doesn't require hardly any pressure (it seems like it) to push it in. I haven't installed the SS clutch line yet, and haven't flushed the clutch hydraulics, but I'm assuming that it's all related to that. Thanks for all the info and help guys!!

31 - EVAP leak = my copilot. :)