What is the purpose of using the Texaco MTX Fluid FM in the manual trans for the 2.0 NT? Why does the dealership say you can only use this gear lube? The Service manual says it recommends it but the prior page under Lubrication and Maintenance and Gear Lubricants says API GL-4 or GL-5 with a viscosity of SAE 75W-85W are recommended for manual transaxle... I have 2.5 qts of AMSOIL SAE 75W-90 Gear Lube I want to use and which AMSOIL says works better.
Now another question...why is the SAE 75W-90 listed as the recommended lube for the 2.0 T & 2.4 and the MTX for NT?? What makes the MTX different from the SA 75w-90? Seems to me there are a lot of diffs breaking, including mine, so I am gonna try the AMSOIL and see what happens...If someone has valid reasoning why I shouldn't...please let me know. Thanks

Jim
jracer@myvine.com
'96 RS Copper Durango Pearl

The differentials breaking has nothing to do with lubrication, it's actually a flaw in the design of the NVG-T350. The main reason you don't want to use other lubricants is because our synchros are made of brass, and certain types of fluids break them down and cause you to be shit out of luck.

The turbo and 2.4L Eclipses (which is what I'm guessing you were refering to) are Mitsubishi transmissions, whereas ours is completely different, so don't even compare the two.

-Corey

With all due respect Corey, what synchros are not made of brass? I am not comparing the two in essence, I am trying to figure out what the differences are and why the discrepencies of recommended lube in the factory manual where in the Gear Lube section it says the SAE but in the grid on the next page says the MTX for the NT.
Diff breaking may be an inherent design flaw but spider gears break in all the T, 2.4 & NT transaxles and in many other types of vehicles, even true rear diffs. Wheel hop is the biggest factor in fwd diff fatigue and ultimate destruction. Gear lube/fluid plays a big part of protecting the gears from wear, pressure, stress, heat, water, foreign particles, etc... and the breaking of the diff/tranny. I am just wondering what the factory's reasons for the MTX over the SAE or synthetics which are or should be superior to both. Is it a factory ploy to get us to buy what they offer or is it absolutely necessary?

Jim
'96 RS

Our syncros are actually not brass, some aftermarket replacement rebuild kits come with brass. They are are different composite plastic or some strange material like that.

Gear lube especially a thick stuff like 75 or 90 weight will not be nice to your trans. I don't recommend using it.

Using motor oil would be better than using 90w. Or ATF +4, which New Venture is using in their new transmissions, and dealershave been putting in as a replacement for the correct fluid. Gar oil is too thick, stay away from it.

Spring the few extra bucks and use the correct fluid.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus

Originally posted by Michael_97RS
They are are different composite plastic or some strange material like that.

Try "paper".

But aren't first and second 'high capacity dual-cone brass synchronizers'?

-Corey

OK...to clarify and set the record straight and after many phone calls and thinking back and looking in my college transmission books... The NV-T350 transmission HAS all brass synchros!! The paper you are talking about is a synchro sleeve between the synchro gears which kind of acts like a mini clutch disc and helps in syncing up the synchro to the gear on initial gear selection then the synchro enters the gear for engagement. And SAE75W-90 will work fine, especially the synthetic which is a little thinner than standard 75W-90. I confirmed this with 3 unbiased dealerships (to me)across the country (CA, TX & HI) and 3 top transmission shops as well. Finally I got ahold of my local Mits Dealership and got them to admit they have to try to sell the gear lube they have, but that the 75W-90 will work fine. Everyone I talked to also expressed there is nothing special between the F5MC1 (NT) trans and the F5M31,F5M33, and W5M33 trannys.
So...I guess I answered my own questions, but sometimes brainstorming on forums like this help to jumpstart in the right direction. I thank you for your input.

Jim
'96 RS

I'd rather talk to a Dodge dealership on the transmission. It's a Chrysler used transmission Mitsu only has it in the 2GNT. Chrysler has it in Neons, Avengers, Sebrings, Talon, etc. They are much more familiar with the trans than any Mitsu dealer.

I'll stay away from 75-90w, especially with Chicago winters, let us know if you have any problems with it.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus

well after reading all the problems that have come from what you are about to do, and the fact you want to do what you want to do....i have a nice 355 tranny for sale when yours has issues.

Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Originally posted by jcracer19
The NV-T350 transmission HAS all brass synchros!!

I don't mean to sound arguementative, but the only true brass syncros in the T350 are for 1st and second. 3, 4, and 5, are all paper-backed syncronizers.

Originally posted by jcracer19
The paper you are talking about is a synchro sleeve between the synchro gears which kind of acts like a mini clutch disc and helps in syncing up the synchro to the gear on initial gear selection then the synchro enters the gear for engagement.

All you are describing is syncro operation. The fact remains that for a paper-backed syncro to effectively grip the gear cone it has to be used with special lubricants, otherwise, it'll just slip and you'll do nothing but try to mesh dog teeth moving at different speeds - the gear will not syncronize.

For what its worth, I will continue to use factory fluid in my transaxle because i have known too many people to ruin these gearboxes trying to cheap out and run $5 75w90 in it. I'd rather pay more and KNOW what i am getting is the right stuff.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=34&topic_id=1858&mesg_id=1858&page=6

I used this in mine and i think that is why mine went out when it did. i now have the mitsu fluid in it but i still have no speedo cause the gear inside the tranny is fucked! Sucks IMO. I dont have 1k to pay out for a rebuild so i am stuck like chuck. Dont do it IMO unless you have money to spend.