it's been 2000+ miles and it still slips sometimes at 1.1+ bar of boost. i'm guessing that i have about 300-320 BHP at the flywheel, with probably a slightly higher torque rating, because HRC 16G's seem to always give a little more torque than power.

it's this weird random issue, some days it's fine others it just kind of freaks out.

i know my throw out bearing is letting up enough, because it rattles around a little when the car is cold and when i push the clutch in the slightest bit the noise goes away.

i don't see any oil dripping out from where the bellhousing meets the block, and there isn't any weird crap coming out of that rubber thing where the clutch fork goes into.

even know it doesn't really bother me that much, the clutch still chatters a little when i try to gradually slip it when driving around town, but i hear this is perfectly normal for a 6 puck ceramic clutch disk.

any chance i didn't "break it in" properly? i took it easy for the first 500-1000 miles or so. i heard from some people that ceramic clutches don't need to be broken in, but others say that all clutches need to be broken in. what is happening?

Man, i'm going through the same shit you are, except I just use a 4 puck ceramic disk, and stock pressure plate/flywheel. It will slip sometimes at 13 psi, esp on a hard WOT 2-3 shift. I've heard nothing but good things about the Spec clutches holding power, so I would check this out: pull off that rubber dust boost on the release fork, and get a good, bright light and try and peek into the bellhousing. Look right around the TOB and input shaft, and see if you can find any trace of dampness, or oil anywhere. It should be completely dry everywhere. I had one clutch destroyed by a leaking trans input shaft bearing seal, but I did the light trick, and saw the fluid on the input shaft and the pressure plate fingers..wasn't too hard to figure that out..I do know of others on here who have the spec 3, running over 20 psi without any issues..so thats all i can figure out i guess :shrug

Get used to it dude. I have about 2,000+ miles on my SPEC stage 3 and it still chatters like a bitch. Shit from the engine bay knocks against my firewall and it sounds horrible (still can't figure out exactly what it is, thought it was my s-fmu). I either have to take off from a stop like a bat out of hell or like a little old lady. No in between slipping or else it'll chatter. I don't have problems with it slipping though when getting on it, it'll grab pretty nicely. I've had the occasional slip here and there but other than that it holds well. Needless to say this clutch has definitely made it a lot less fun as a daily driver.

What boost you guys running when they are slipping? I was going to get a stage 3 from spec, but i want it hold at least 20 psi or so..

I'm only running about 5-6 psi and it only slips when I shift into 2nd. The wheels break loose at the top of first and when I slam it in 2nd it slipped, but that was only once.

Originally posted by EclipseRST
I'm only running about 5-6 psi and it only slips when I shift into 2nd. The wheels break loose at the top of first and when I slam it in 2nd it slipped, but that was only once.

damn this isn't the 1st time I've heard of these problem so I'm getting a clutchmaster stage 4, fuck the bullshit

Originally posted by Skrilla

Originally posted by EclipseRST I'm only running about 5-6 psi and it only slips when I shift into 2nd. The wheels break loose at the top of first and when I slam it in 2nd it slipped, but that was only once.

damn this isn't the 1st time I've heard of these problem so I'm getting a clutchmaster stage 4, fuck the bullshit

Yeah, bullshit, tell me about it..this will be the 5th time dropping my tranny because of clutch issues :scratch I swear if the new clutch I get slips, i'm going auto damnit hahah...ok maybe not that drastic :)

yeah my next clutch is definately going to be a non-modular clutchmasters stage 4.

Clutch Masters makes a dual puck clutch for our cars. Last time I checked prices 1600.00, they even have a carbon on carbon for us but it only comes in a three disk and is only 2600.00 hehehehe.

What we need is an upgraded pressure plate. I really don't experience slipping so much, b/c my tires always lose traction first!

Originally posted by JasonESi_T
What we need is an upgraded pressure plate. I really don't experience slipping so much, b/c my tires always lose traction first!

From what i have been told, both Clutchmasters and Spec use upgraded pressure plates, increasing clamp load over stock. This is what they claim, but i'd love to put a stock pressure plate and one of their's in a plate load tester to see what it *really* is..I know Spec claims their pressure plates are 2600 lbs..not to sure what stock lb rating is though..That clutchmasters dual disk setup is sweet, but the pricetag sure isn't :wallbash

Well, just to throw another log onto the fire, I have a spec stage 3 pressure plate with a 4 puck ceramic disk. On friday night, I went to the track and made about 8 pulls at 24 psi. On my last pull of the night, my clutch slipped :(. I'm not amused. As for my times, I still cant get shit for traction in first or second gear. My best 60 ft time of the night was a 2.4 which just sucks (although they weren't laying down much if any VHT). My best run of the night was a 13.8@108 mph. It was pissing me off racing guys who were in the 12's but I had higher ETs. Man, I cant wait till my slicks are at the door :).

Originally posted by Matt_95tgs
Well, just to throw another log onto the fire, I have a spec stage 3 pressure plate with a 4 puck ceramic disk. On friday night, I went to the track and made about 8 pulls at 24 psi. On my last pull of the night, my clutch slipped :(. I'm not amused. As for my times, I still cant get shit for traction in first or second gear. My best 60 ft time of the night was a 2.4 which just sucks (although they weren't laying down much if any VHT). My best run of the night was a 13.8@108 mph. It was pissing me off racing guys who were in the 12's but I had higher ETs. Man, I cant wait till my slicks are at the door :).

hey Matt, make a dual stage boost controller like I did :) I can run low boost (7 psi) in first gear, then hit second, then hit a switch in the car, which goes to high boost setting through the MBC..all you need is a solenoid valve from Grainger, and a swtich..It just lets you launch the car much harder off the line, using lower boost,and that lets you almost just floor it off the line, instead of feathering the throttle..Good runs though man! 108 MPH? daaammm :whoa

On topic: I found a place called South Bend clutches, and I think I'm going to give them a call, and see if they have any ideas for us. I was going to get the SPEC 3, and found a modular unit online from a site for 382 bucks..but, if this isnt going to work well enough, then I want something that I don't have to keep upgrading..Without going to a larger clutch(almost impossible), using a higher clamp load pressure plate, and higher coeficient of friction clutch disk, there really are no other options for us, except the mega expensive Clutchmaster's dual disk setup..HRC seems to like it though.. Be very intresting to put a Clutchmasters pressure plate, and a Spec pressure plate on a plate load tester, to see who has more clamp load..I've talked with both places, and Clutchmasters says 2200 lb for theirs, and Spec claims 2600 lb..never really hear many people talk about Clutchmaster's clutches slipping though..hmmm

Matt, the numbers you have there for plate load are for the 4g63. Stock, our pressure plates are a lousy 1000 lb clamp load. The SPEC pressure plate is 1500 lb (or so they say) and the Clutchmasters plate is 1700 lb (again... thats what they say). The stock 4g63 pressure plate is around 1500 lb. After sitting on the phone with Dan and a tech guy at Clutchmasters for a few hours, it seems that our best bet is a Clutchmasters pressure plate with a 8 7/8" (maybe 9" if possible) disk with either cerramic, sintered iron, or ferramic facings. That *should* be enough to hold roughly 500 ft/lbs on an 8 7/8" disk. The only other option I see is going with the twin disk setup, of which Clutchmasters has 2 options. 1. Street setup with weaker friction materials (holds 650 ft/lbs) for $1600. 2. Race setup with ceramic facings on one disk and sintered iron facings on the other (holds 800 ft/lbs) for $1700. Personally, I think I'm going to go with a CM pressure plate and buy a new billet steel flywheel that will accept a 9" disk. I figure I can probably get most of my money back selling my spec pressure plate and aluminum fidanza flywheel. Shit, maybe I'll get another disk and sell the entire package...

Originally posted by Matt_95tgs
Matt, the numbers you have there for plate load are for the 4g63. Stock, our pressure plates are a lousy 1000 lb clamp load. The SPEC pressure plate is 1500 lb (or so they say) and the Clutchmasters plate is 1700 lb (again... thats what they say). The stock 4g63 pressure plate is around 1500 lb. After sitting on the phone with Dan and a tech guy at Clutchmasters for a few hours, it seems that our best bet is a Clutchmasters pressure plate with a 8 7/8" (maybe 9" if possible) disk with either cerramic, sintered iron, or ferramic facings. That *should* be enough to hold roughly 500 ft/lbs on an 8 7/8" disk. The only other option I see is going with the twin disk setup, of which Clutchmasters has 2 options. 1. Street setup with weaker friction materials (holds 650 ft/lbs) for $1600. 2. Race setup with ceramic facings on one disk and sintered iron facings on the other (holds 800 ft/lbs) for $1700. Personally, I think I'm going to go with a CM pressure plate and buy a new billet steel flywheel that will accept a 9" disk. I figure I can probably get most of my money back selling my spec pressure plate and aluminum fidanza flywheel. Shit, maybe I'll get another disk and sell the entire package...

Ahh so the numbers come out! :) Damn, 1000lb stock? Eeek haha..Like I told ya, I want Dan to test these plates out on the load tester. I'm really curious now..Although, if what they claim is true, 500ft lbs is quite a damn bit,and should be all the clutch you need for quite a while..until a really big turbo and some n2o are in order.
I know that Len uses a CM 4 in his 500HP Neon, and he says its never slipped on him.. :scratch

dear god did someone say "sintered iron"?

lots of good information in here.

BTW, my clutch doesn't slip anymore, provided i modulate it properly. it seems to want to be almost dropped in all the time, and not gradually slipped into gear.

I have a south bend clutch and it slips some times and it is also very light going into the gears. If your looking for a instant grip this is not for you. The clutch in my friends spec v grabs harder.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...

Off topic, but 24psi and you only pulled off a 108 trap? I pulled off 109 on 12-13psi.

Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

13.887@104.648 5/30/03

www.haiokuracing.com

I actually had a higher trap running less boost also. Why might you ask? Traction. Try getting a great ET/time when you spin your tires all the way through second feathering the throttle and part of 3rd . The only decent part of those runs was my top end, and let me tell you, I was making waaaay more torque at 24 psi than you are at 13.

Edit: I should also mention that I left my 50 lb sub in the back, along with assloads of tools, and had a 300 lb passenger in the car at the time (wasn't seriously racing that night).