I'm looking at rebuilding my transmission, possibly strengthening the syncros if possible. For those that have had work done, where would you recommend? I'm looking at both quality and cost.

All I know off the top of my head is ARD...

-Corey

Do it yourself. Far, far cheaper that way and you learn stuff too.

http://www.ecanfix.com/users/manualcd/gift/dsm/patrick_2g_mt_overhaul.pdf

Download that.

...take into consideration the suggestions made in this thread awhile back (http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=17962&mode=full)?

Better blocker rings/synchros, and the plastic output bearing? I'm putting in a Quaife when I finally get around to rebuilding, so the diff pin problem doesn't really concern me, but those two are definately things I'm interested in.

Should I just hit up Kise for parts, or is there somewhere else that's reputable?

Thanks again,
Corey

the book states you have to have a press to get the trans shafts out and to get the gears off. Now unless you are in the works for building a press like I am, how are you supposed to disassemble the trans oh great dark one:)~ Seriously.

Terry

I used a 14mm deep socket and a hammer. Once you remove the snaprings, you can use the socket as a punch and hammer the input shaft out. The output shaft has nothing holding the bearing into the case, so you can just tap it through to the inside as the input shaft comes out of the bearing.

it ain't easy, but i've done it more than once. it also helps if, once you get them both out, you use some fine emory cloth and polish down the ends of the shafts so its not as godaweful hard to get them out next time. Doesn't take much, just a quick polish to make it a tad easier. You don't want the shafts free spinning in the bearing..

Any answers for my questions?

-Corey

Originally posted by MajinVejitaXV
Any answers for my questions? -Corey

The answer is "Nope."

Well, shit :P

-Corey

Thanks Dino...that really helps. Although i think i will have to go buy a 14mm deep from menards ect....most all my tools are Snap on...i dont think i want to go beating on a socket :(

I suppose there is still no way to get the shafts apart without a press.

Eh corey to answer your questions....there is a guy on ebay alot selling rebuilt tranny's....if your going to have yours done perhaps talk with him. he sells them for 695.00+core. they are plain jane rebuilds but on the other hand there aren't many upgrade parts available for ours yet. NV has a guy on this board looking into better synchros for our trans but no word of a estimated release or anything. Or call a local shop and pay 1400. hehe rebuild shops sure are stickin it to ya these days. Or send it to Dino!

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
I suppose there is still no way to get the shafts apart without a press.

The input shaft itself will come apart without a press. You can pull it apart with your hands once you get the snaprings off. The output shaft does not come apart at all.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Or send it to Dino!

Pay shipping both ways and pay for parts, i'll do it. No guarantees, no warranty, but it'll work like new. Not for free, though. I'm poor :-)

Originally posted by DarkOne
I used a 14mm deep socket and a hammer. Once you remove the snaprings, you can use the socket as a punch and hammer the input shaft out. The output shaft has nothing holding the bearing into the case, so you can just tap it through to the inside as the input shaft comes out of the bearing. it ain't easy, but i've done it more than once. it also helps if, once you get them both out, you use some fine emory cloth and polish down the ends of the shafts so its not as godaweful hard to get them out next time. Doesn't take much, just a quick polish to make it a tad easier. You don't want the shafts free spinning in the bearing..

Been meaning to update this - you might want to look at the shaft ends in the bearings before you attempt to hammer them out - for some dumbass reason, NV saw fit to whack the shaft ends with a tool that can slightly mushroom the ends. Look for small lines running radially outward on the bearing ends. Run a fine file over that spot to ensure there is no shaft expansion where that mushrooming tool hit it. From there, it's cake.

I've seen people explode case bearings in 12 ton presses because the shafts are not muchroomed uniformly across all production years or even month-to-month as best i can tell. Some are worse than others. Some don't need anything done at all. It's weird.

Just a caveat i have been meaning to share and completely forgot to add into this thread...

holy shit Dino I didn't know it was that simple, I'm gonna rebuild my own tranny with the neon gear set - points to you

Originally posted by Skrilla
holy shit Dino I didn't know it was that simple

It's not a Getrag gearbox. What else can i say? hah

http://www.kdsperformance.com/f5marekitec2.html

not to sure what the rebuild kit entails, but worth a shot to call them and ask.

might be helpful, shows input, output and diff:




_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

There are two rebuild kits available for our trans. Basic kit comes with bearings, seals and any clips/snap rings. Master kit comes with all the above + synchro gears.

the three sychro gears that we car replace are like 150.00 extra. I found the price from a site that is listed in previous comments or this section for about 350.00 for the master kit.

Terry


96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion - Niche 17" chrome shoks - Stillen front and rear sway bars - Koni yellows wrapped with eibach - Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - Tenzo-R seats/4 pt harness - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 355 neon tranny, stage 2 MIBA clutch, Power doors, 450 Turbo injectors, Adj Fuel reg/return line, Backseat eliminator kit(my design), GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Hey,
I designed a puller for removing the shafts from the tranny, took me about 20 minutes. It uses two existing holes that hold the cover plate in place. After I made the puller it took like 5 minutes to remove the shafts with no risk of breaking the 3 tabs inside. I'll take a picture of it and post it on Monday. If anyone in So.Cal is needing to use it, I'll rent it out for 1 dolla! hehe.
lates
james

Good idea james amn, i didnt think of that....I have a puller that would push the shaft out, good thinking bud.

Terry

hehe no problem,
hey I just recieved my rebuild kit from that KDS place that turbo8u gave us the link for. Well I was putting all the syncros in and noticed that our stock syncro material is paper, the one that comes in the rebuild kit has brass material, I dunno if this is better or anything, its interesting though. THe master kit I got had all the syncro rings and main bearings and seals. It even includes syncros for the 1st and 2nd gear which I thought was not rebuildable everything is pressed in place and I can't get it apart.

Lates
James

Originally posted by jamesman
I just recieved my rebuild kit from that KDS place that turbo8u gave us the link for. Well I was putting all the syncros in and noticed that our stock syncro material is paper, the one that comes in the rebuild kit has brass material, I dunno if this is better or anything, its interesting though. THe master kit I got had all the syncro rings and main bearings and seals. It even includes syncros for the 1st and 2nd gear which I thought was not rebuildable everything is pressed in place and I can't get it apart.

I'm about to order this same kit next week. I'm concerned about the paper to brass difference. Did it work? Or should you replace with paper ones like they came with?


Also, what happened with that 1st gear issue?

Anyone else have any tips/ideas..this is my first time doing this (no not alone my dad is helping but it's first trans rebuild as well.

I printed out that manual in the link given, and we were very pleased with that, but there is a "special tool" they list that I have NO idea where to get or what else I could use instead. It's the one that holds the case upright while you re-install the parts, so that they are aligned. Any thoughts/ideas/references from anyone?

Originally posted by SexxieRacerChik
It's the one that holds the case upright while you re-install the parts, so that they are aligned. Any thoughts/ideas/references from anyone?

It's called a jig. I usually jig my trans internals off the clutch. have a look: http://www.nochoads.org/pics/tranny_work/oct-2003 . I used a few zipties to hold it together while i dropped the case over it. One at the top you can cut through the bearing holes and one at the bottom you can cut when you turn it over usually does the trick.

Plenty of pics of the thing coming apart and going back together there. Hope it helps.

Would the SOHC tranny use the same rebuild parts as our transmission. I am about to get a junkyard tranny and would like to rebuild it before I put it in.

Well this kit I got from KDS isn't worth diddly to me. My syncro's are like brand spanking new..still have an edge on them and everything. My problem(s) was the Plastic caged Needle Bearing, behind 3/4/5, was completely TRASH...obliterated. Plus most the shift fork boots, on 3rd/4th and 5th, are melted off as well.

Both Dealer parts..plus they don't sell just the boots..I gotta replaced the forks themselves. ::sigh::

Well, it saves me from $300 to $180 or so, I guess that's ok...but now I gotta return this kit and wait for a refund, pay more shipping, plus deal with the dealer..although the parts girl does seem pretty nice. ::ehh::

KDS was very misleading in their information pertaining to these kits IMHO.

Here is what their webpage says:
Most master kits include the following where applicable: Tapered Roller Bearings, Cylindrical Roller Bearings, Ball Bearings, Needle Roller Bearings, Seals and O-Rings, Oil Rings and Oil Baffles, Small Parts Kits, Fork Pads, Gasket Sets, Synchronizer Blocking Rings.

Well, that's kinda misleading. It seems pretty damn applicable to me, this part. I called the kit manufacturer and they told me that the kit doesn't come with that item...due to ordering avaliablity(quanity)...meaning they can't order them, only dealer's get that part :rolleyes Well KDS needs to put a list of what all is IN their kits..not a generalization of all kits. Becasue now I've ordered the kit and the only part I really needed, that "looked" like it would be in there wasn't. SO I paid for shipping here and I'll have to pay for shipping back. ::uugh:: I could have bought the damned piece for what shipping is going to now cost me.

Oh, and BTW..my syncro's were paper, not brass, that came in the KDS kit.

The plastic boots on the shift forks are not replacable alone...you have to replace the ENTIRE fork (just for some stupid plastic boots ::mad:: ) well that's just dandy...and check out these prices..

Here is a price list for the parts I am going to have to replace.
(please view diagram of transmisison above for part Numbers and parts locations)
#21 from Page 1..Needle Roller Bearing $14.44
#34 from page 2..Shift Fork $25.89
#35........................ $86.50
#35a....................... $23.48
#35b....................... $28.76

I also asked about gear oil. I had been told to only use the oil from teh dealer. She was like..um, no that is only for automatics (so, I felt like..kinda dumb at this point)..otherwise they only sell a 5 gal bucket of the gear oil. She told me any 75w x 85 would be fine for the transmission.

And those Safe brackets for the differential are HARD to find. ::mad::
I'm either gonna have to drive 2 hours to get one or pay $5 extra to have it shipped (God this shippin is killing me)..prolly just have it shipped, since my car doesn't work. ::sigh:: I'm about ready to buy a horse and say fuck it.

Do not use Gear oil in the NV-T350 transaxle.

Use only:
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=34&topic_id=1858&mesg_id=1858&page=5

Well...I went to the dealership and back to parts. The chik at the counter looked unpleasantly surprised to see me at 5:40pm this evening lol (although they don't close til 6). I called the day before and me and some other chik went head to head over whether or not they made a "special" fluid for our nv-t350 cars. After 15 minutes of debating, and me giving her apart number and a price, she finally decided to look in the computer instead of ademently denying that they had such a thing....she found 18 quarts in stock :rolleyes.

So anyways, I go to the counter and ask for the fluid and this chik is like...Yeah, we don't have anything like that. I'm like..yeah, you do. I called about it yesterday. WELL you didn't talk to me! I'm like no you're right I didn't, the chik I did talk to was dumb but alot nicer then you...but you do have the fluid, she said you had 18 quarts in the back. She's like (in a really huffy tone) well, let me just look, back there. It was 2 steps past the door they go thru, at eye level sittin on a shelf. :rolleyes. A shelf she obviously had to walk past EVERY time she went to the back. I swear, some people need to be placed in small, metal boxes....then have them beat with hammers.

I got it for $11.47 a quart.

Just for the sake of showing this in case no one has ever seen what all can/could happen when your transmission has no fluid in it....


Yeah, the boots are completely melted off the shifting forks.

A BIG thanks to Thura (and Dino) for helping me acquire some for significantly less then the dealer price. :D



Yeah, that's my plastic caged Needle Bearing...or what's left of it.
90% of the plastic is just gone...and some of the pins are broken.

I'm just glad that after Monday hopefully I won't have to wrry with anything else for a while (note I said hopefully lol). Gotta get a seal, some Permatex, and get it back on the car and I'm set (I hope).

Oh...BTW just for the sake of asking....anyone else ever used Permatex instead of Loctite? I'm gonna use the Permatex black gasket maker..was the only one I saw listed for transmissions (also mentioned something about factory warranty requirements or some shit).
http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=22072

The manual I down loaded says use a grey sealant from Loctite..but when I cracked mine open it was black, not grey. (I'm not certain someone hasn't already been into this before..there are some writings on the inside of the case that leads me to believe it could be a replacement trans or a different case.)