Well after reading that XtremeRS tracked the horrible screeching that a lot of us suffer from to the throw-out bearing not being seated properly on the shaft in relation to the clutch, I was wondering if anyone has an aftermarket clutch that does not cause the screeching?

What kinda clutches are you running?

I have the ClutchMasters Stage 4 non-modular. Ever since that thing went on it has screeched. I did notice that the fingers on the pressure plate were a little uneven when I first got the clutch. I wonder if that has anything to do with it?

HELP!!!

Actually, I tracked the neutral "rattle" down to the TOB wobbling on the input shaft. I too had a screeching clutch, it made a horrible noise right at the friction point, right when you loaded up the clutch to move the car. This what you are talking about? I never did find the culprit..ended up with a rebuilt custom clutch(clutch #3 to be exact), and the noise went away :shrug

I only have the Neutral rattle. Now why would the TOB not sit properly on the input shaft? Do you think that it could be the fingers on the pressure plate like I posted earlier? I just thought them being uneven was kinda odd.

I think that my TOB may be going bad as well cause it is starting to chirp right at the engagement point. It was new when I installed the motor, so if it is in fact going bad, then something has to be askew.

You know, I have seen other type of manual transmissions, and most have a solid mounted TOB. Ours is pretty loose, as it's not a tight fit on the input shaft..I do believe the fingers on the pressure plate being uneven causes the TOB to wobble a bit, as this makes sense, because when you put a little pressure on the clutch, the noise goes away. As for the screetching noise, still dont know what it is. Could be the TOB..I had replaced my clutch and the TOB at the same time, so not sure exactly what it was..

What kinda clutch are you running? I think that the next clutch I get will not be from CM. I think that I may try one of the Spec clutches that everyone seems to be talking about.

I'm using a custom built clutch. Basically took a modular clutch, drilled out the rivits, had the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced, and used a 4 puck, ceramic disk, then bolted it together..

I'm using a SPEC stage 3. It doesn't make any noise at all. Then again I probably just can't hear it over my sqeaky belts. :rolleyes

PT cruiser clutch here with stock TOB. No problems. VERY mild chatter in neutral.

so waite....alot of people suffer from this chatter in nutural...
i have it baaaadd...one question...when you rev it up and u hear it chatter faster and a little louder?

i have a clutch net rebuilt clutch, i think somone else did to...did i read right that the way to fix this problem is getting a diffrent kind clutch

its the same thing, when i push in my clutch it goes away

anyone..please..what the hell is this stupid clinkclinkclink i hear at idle!?!

lol thanks.

Its your clutch man...it has a bomb in it...best advise is to sell it me for 20.00 and i will dispose of properly. lomao
Terry

lol ok, fine 20$ it is, stage 3 clutch is yours

SPEC is good IMO. Plus they are located in AL which makes them completely l33t0 IMO.

just installed my DXD-F. This is my second clutch install, but something is terribly wrong here. Wheels spin, but when I start the car there is this horrible, very horrible screeching sound. Sounds like metal going across a chalk board. I fucken hate doing this shit alone. I have to take the tranny off alone again. I'm thinking the clutch is not align right, but that can't be since it's the input that shaft guides it on to the starter plate before you bolted up the tranny. Everything seems in place. Just sounds like something is scraping inside very bad.

Well I took that little part of the cover plate off to look at the tranny from the bottom. I had my little brother turn the crank and when he does, I heard a scraping. I took a closer look at which point the scraping sound is made and noitce that a have a few teeth on my starter plate that has been filed down. This seems to happen every 1/5 of the way around the whole starte plate. Now I don't think you can install that starter plate in the wrong way. The reason why this modular set up didn't come with clutch alignment tool is because you don't need one because of how it's installed (mount clutch assembly on transaxle, then put the tranny on engine, start bolting starter plate to clutch, 1 bolt at a time). I spoke to Jason and he pointed out a thread where some stock clutches had a little cup that goes on the flywheel before you mount that to the starter plate. When I took off my stock clutch to install my CM4, there was no cup that went on the flywheel. Though I installed it differently tha time (bolted clutch modular assembly on starter plate first, then put on the tranny). Now after this conversation it led me to believe, that the cup for the flywheel, might've only came with the stock Luks set up, because my stock clutch, cms4 and this dxd-f one all uses the sachs fly wheel and pp. So I'm gonna take this whole damn thing off again and reinstall the clutch, the non modular way. I'd like to hear some thoughts and comments. Like do I need a new starter plate now?

Originally posted by DSMRoadster
the cup for the flywheel, might've only came with the stock Luks set up, because my stock clutch, cms4 and this dxd-f one all uses the sachs fly wheel and pp.

Nope. My CMStg4 has one.

wtf? My CM4 never had one, and it was working fine, except for the short life span of it. My new clutch didn't come with one. I wouldn't even know what one would look like. I don't think this cup is vital at all except just for lining up the flywheel. I believe though it's called a pilot bearing. If this was needed, southbend would've sent me one.

through further analysis, I found that for some reason some of the teeth on my starter plate is grinding with the teeth on the starter. Why? I am not even sure. There is no way for the starter plate to be out of place since there are 8 freaken bolts to make sure that motherfucker is lined up. Now I might even need a new starter plate or starter. There is only 1 portion of the starter plate that is grinding with the starter, though other parts are slightly filed down, but doesn't make any noise like that 1 particiular part. Any more info is welcome right now since I want to get this motherfucker on the road by monday evening. Someone out there must have an answer this is the first post of anything like this happening.

you mean no one here, ever had this happened?

hey guys... just reading the post... i did a search as well...
i have the same chatter that everyone is talking about. only happens in neutral, push in the clutch pedal and it goes away. also, it only does it when i first start the car, when it warms up, it goes away. im not sure what it is, you guys are saying its the TOB, i have a ebay aita stage3 clutch and for the most part it does the job.
i also have another question, when i first start to roll, i put it in first and i feel a slight rolling vibration only at low rpm. as soon as i get it up there it goes away. the vibration happens in 1st and 2nd gear, also, when i hard launch, the car just shakes, it gives one violent shake and then drives fine. i also have a phantom grip lsd installed, is that the lsd working? i didnt think it would make that much of a difference cause im not turbo yet but when i had my motor out, i got the lsd intalled. does anyone know wtf is up with my car!!!! also my speedo isnt working, but that might be a totally different issue.

thanks

You just totaly hijacked a thread a that I brought back from the dead to help me out. Your problem is the throwout bearing. That violent shake, it's your lsd.

holy croikey, I hope I just found the problem. Remember how I told you guys my clutch is a bolted modular set up? The heads of the bolt is on the pressure plate side while the washer and lock nut is on the flywheel side? Now picture that for a moment, and now picture a longer bolt. 2-3 mm makes a big of a difference when the outer edge of your flex plate is suppose to sit flat on your flywheel. I followed the pattern and notice the parts that were filed down was exactly where those bolts stuck out a couple mm out too far. My flexplate is slightly, just ever slightly bent on some parts. If I don't have any objections, I will be reusing this same flexplate. I didn't feel like filing the bolts down so instead i just reversed it. The head is now on the flywheel side and the lock and washer nut is on the pp side.

ok i have a noise similar but not allways neutral. when it gets warmed up then i'll hear it loud and clear just cruising.. mostly in the 1st and 2nd gears. when i push in the clutch it goes away... any ideas on that one fella's.. thanks

I'm trying to eliminate this chatter that I have. Horrible chatter when in gear and cruising. It sounds like a heat shield being that came loose and being dragged on the road. So I want to know from the guys who don't have chatter, are you using that "cup" that goes over the hump on the flywheel that fits into the center of the crank? Are you guys having chatter also?