Well the master at the A604 has done it again and come up with a simple switch to defeat TQ lockup
here is Roberts Post from ASOG
he thinks it might be worth a couple 1/10's in the quarter mile

"After long research by my self and another member its done, my car is not here so I did not test the mod but it has been tested by another member.

Here are Directions to defeat the torque converter lockup without turning on
the brake lights. GREAT for city cruising.
`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````

My 1995 Chrysler shop manual is incorrect from the factory and shows that
the brake light switch is NORMALLY OPEN on both poles of the double pole
single throw tail light switch. That is incorrect. It's normally open on the
brake light side and normally closed on the torque converter lockup side.
The manual has several pages you need to find to figure out the different
systems and their function. That's why it's taken me so long to get this mod
to work.

Feel free to post it if you wish.

Attached is a drawing that I made that is correct and replaces the one in
the manual. (I don't know if the 96 and up manual has been corrected.)

All you need to do is OPEN that ground circuit to make this mod work.
`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````

Parts............................

1 single pole switch (or SPDT for an indicator light)
6 feet of #18 wire
2 #18 butt connectors
2 spade terminals

Directions..................................

Mount the Lock Up switch.

Locate the brake light switch under the dash. Disconnect the quick connector
from the switch.

cut the Black wire from the brake light switch and strip back 3/8" of
insulation.

cut the #18 wire into 2 - 3' pieces, strip 3/8" from both ends of each piece

use the butt connectors and spades to crimp them to your 3' pieces.

crimp the butt connectors to the cut black wires

install the switch

test

NOTE: You could use a single pole double throw switch and a small light
mounted in the dash to illuminate if the lockup is "OFF" The SPDT switch
would need to be one side N/O and the other N/C.
The normally Open side would feed 12v to the light when activated and the
normally closed side on the brake circuit to maintain continuity.


For those of you wondering what this is doing, ever been at full throttle and notice that as soon as you hit 3rd gear still at WOT your rpms drop about 400 rpm, well thats your tc locking up. The motors are rev happy and need those revs to produce HP, well this mod will keep that from happeneing and keep those revs up.

I also recommend that if you do this mod install a tranny cooler if your gonna use this alot. When your not in lockup your converter builds heat, higher HP and rpms with out lock up for a long period of time will build lots of heat, thats an A604 killer."

crazy}(

NICE FIND!!!:thumbsup
later

Somebody really needs to do this and take pics of which wires they are talking about. I would do it but Im confused as to where the wire is exactly. lots of wires under the dash :-).

Ok Guyz.... I'll do it.....Doin' it tomarrow....... will take lots of pics and give you all the run down on the probs i run in to..

L8er





97' Eclpse GS 420A
MODS*****
AEM cam Gears
MSD ignition
Chikira 4-2-1 header
Custom 3" exhast
Pacsetter hi-flo c

let us know where this switch is. i wanted to take a crack at it too.
later

If you want to do a walk through for it Ill host it just let me know.

Ya'll are nuts}( But i wanna see the pics and walk-through:).

Can somebody explain how we would use this and be a little more clear on the details? I'm not doubting this might be a good thing, I'm just to confused on what this is doing for us if it works.

Ok guys here it is.... his Mod with my pics..... worked out nicely too

just go to http://www.flyservers.com/members4/wonderracing.com//tq.html







97' Eclpse GS 420A
MODS*****
AEM cam Gears
MSD ignition
Chikira 4-2-1 header
Custom 3" exhast
Pacsetter hi-flo c

Not gunna tell us more!?!?!? COME ON!!!:D If you actually did it give us a write up on how you liked it, then come do mine:).

so what your doing is basically manually locking up and unlocking?

and let me get this straight u were doing 132 with o/d from 120 ? what tranny do u have? u have the final drive mod also which hampers top speed for accel..doesnt understand ...

Well Ill be doing this tomorrow. How much of a difference did it give you.

the only time you'll really notice it is when you're going over 70 mph. as soon as you're in 3rd gear, that's when it'll work. since this the rpm drop only occurs in 3rd, that's when you'll expect to see it. not in first or second, but third. should be good for highway use also incase you need to get on it and not worry about letting off the gas a little so the rpm's will come back up.
later

the toggle switch used, on the back side, would it have 3 prongs or 2 prongs? if it has 3, you connect the 2 wires from the black wire on the top and middle or bottom and middle, then for the 3rd prong, would you use that as a ground? just wondering b/c i got my toggle mounted (2 prong) and all i need to do is cut and splice the black wire from the brake light switch.
later

You could use a toggle with three points thats what Im doing tomorrow. Im also going to run a positive to the switch so that when its switched on meaning that the TQ lock is on the light will come on. When I shut the TQ lock off it will turn the light off on the switch.

so do you need a 3 prong or would 2 be fine?
later

two would work also. Just wire the line coming from the main into one post and the wire connected to the quick connect on the other post.

Alright I ran up to walmart at midnight and got some wire and a switch and hooked this up. Heres the results:

With Lock up On:
1st 0-40mph
2nd 40-70mph
3rd 70-118mph
4th 118-120mph


With Lock up off:
1st 0-40mph
2nd 40-75mph
3rd 75-120mph
4th 120-132mph

both instances 4th was topping out at around 4500RPM.
Other thing is that with the lock up off Overdrive(4th) will continue to pull all the way instead of just stopping once engaged at max speed. All and all It was a good mod and gives us an extra couple seconds of pull before the gear shift. Noticed that the shift from 2nd to 3rd was hitting redline with the lock up turned off. For the $5 it cost to do this mod its way worth it and for once you can actually see the difference in numbers }( . Thanks to InFiNiT3 for his walkthrough which made the instructions alot easier to follow and thanks to mcgyvr for making the mod possible.:thumbsup The mod will also only take about 10minutes to do.

Anytime bro.... I definitly thaught it was worth it..

speaking of mods.... anyone ever try that sportronic conversion?






97' Eclpse GS 420A
MODS*****
AEM cam Gears
MSD ignition
Chikira 4-2-1 header
Custom 3" exhast
Pacsetter hi-flo c

i think someone tried it a while ago but something was different than what he was supposed to do and it didn't end up working right. but yeah, i just did this and since i'm leaving for myrtle beach tomorrow morning, i'll have lots of highway miles on it to test it. but in general, it worked. i could flip the switch, and monitored my afc and could see the rpm's rise or drop. this would for sure help a few 1/10's in the 1/4 mile. also, final drive mod and under drive pulley...i think those plus these would give about a full second off our 1/4 miles.
later

This mod makes are top end so much better. Its so nice to be going 50 and flip the switch and punch it and just watch the car pull and pull and pull untill you let off the gas.

Nice mod!!!!!!!! We are tapping into the cruise control kill switch I think, cuz if you set the cruise then flip the switch, it cancels.
Don't mind my mindless babble!



Black '98 GS auto
I-vers intake
Custom ram air
Front & rear strut bars
OBX fog lights w/ fog light mod
RSR rear section
Stereo that goes BOOM

anyone hooked it up with the light yet? I want to make sure I bought the right switch and stuff.

Got the SPDT switch ( only has 3 prinds) and a 12volt mini indicator light at radioshack. Cost $6.30

Oh my god!
I just read this stuff. I feel like there should have been some kind of a party. this is the next coolest thing someone finding out how to up our shift rpms!

In regards to the three post switch I dont think youll be able to get it to work with that becuase the switch is designed to disconnect the positive not the ground and if you try moving them around so that you cut off the ground you run the risk of sending positive current through the ground line. Just take a two post switch and on the ground going to the harness splice again and run that to a light then run a positive to the light as well. Then when you flip the switch on you connect the ground

just a little info on how this works (I think)
Its basically fooling the TCU into thinking you hit the brakes, which normally unlocks the convertor, so your TCU is thinking you hit the brakes and keeps the TQ unlocked (this is also why the cruise control turns off when you hit the switch because your CC always shuts off when you hit the brakes

As for the sporttronic shifting, it can/will work just fine someone just needs to do it, if you havent by july I will do it again and this time hook up to the TCU and not the ECU like last time (I thought the TCU was part of the ECU but Im incorrect the TCU is under the dash kind of behind the radio on the firewall from what Ive heard.
Id do it but Im sooo busy with moving to NC from chicago

Can any one draw up a diagram? The pics are great but im a bit dis oriented.

Guys, be careful when making electrical mods to the A604... it's not a stable tranny in the first place. I'd hate to see a bunch of ATs start to fail. Just a warning...

so no one can draw something up for me on paint at least?

If the pictures confuse you maybe doing the mod isnt for you. No offense, it is very easy. There is really no way of drawing a diagram of how it works.

All i can tell ya is theres a sensor with 4 wires coming out of it, you cut and splice the black one. About as easy as anyone can put it.

This mod is damn incredible, the car pulls so much harder up top, a tranny cooler is DEFINITELY needed though. /me pets his 6-pass

so you cut the black wire connected to the sensor and splice the tago switch into just that one black wire and with a flick of a switch you open/close that wire correct, so only one wire is to be cut and spliced? The extra wire they are talking about is just for the tago switch to be put where you want it?

need a pic of the brake light switch circuit, is it under the steering column or where, im ready to do this mod but dont have a manual and the link above isnt working, HELP i want to try this mod out at the track tonight!!!!!

all you gotta do is get on your back and stick your head down under the dash, look at the brake pedal, follow the rod that its on up about 6 inches, and you will se a bracket with a connector on it that i think has 5 wires on it, unplug that connector, splice your switch into the black wire, test it, mount the switch, and be happy :)

ive had it on my dynasty for like a year now, no problems.


1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

yea, its a pretty freaking awesome mod. especially with a 2800 stall...

thanks guys, i got in a race a couple nights ago and beat a malibu wagon with a 305, then he did something to his car and wanted a rematch and he beat me by about 2 car lengths, hopefully this mod will get me back in my rightful place to put this 2 shit talking pansies in theirs!!!

sorry for the hassle but i was wondering if anybody could tell me the colors of the wires that were patched together so I can figure out which specific connector it is. thanks.

would it be okay to mix a positive wire with the black wire for light-up purposes? Because thats the only way I can get power to light it up. I have a three pronge SPFT illuminated switch. It goes "POWER, AC, GROUND." I spliced the black wire already to the Power and AC but was wondering if I could also tap a positive wire to the power also and just ground it for illumination. Just wondering if its okay, thanks.

ya bro thats no problem

jake