Just a question, but so is the mod just for getting off the line? Meaning if you're cuising, then you have it "on" using a switch in between?




-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

The way I understand it, (I've been reading all of the posts over it many times) it helps out with the 1-2 shift, the 2-3 shift, and it looses its effectiveness after that, and loosing the 4-3 downshift would be the main reason to install a switch. So that you could still have passing gear. I usually turn o/d off when I pass someone, so I don't know if I would even use a switch, but I will probably install one anyway.

The question I have is... If it takes a while for the ECU/TCU to "learn" what it should be doing, then would turning it on and off with a switch cause it to have to re-learn it each time you turn it on or off.

My biggest problem is finding the wire to cut into.

I probably didn't answer your question very well, I just thought I would give it a try.

Originally posted by Dracas
The way I understand it, (I've been reading all of the posts over it many times) it helps out with the 1-2 shift, the 2-3 shift, and it looses its effectiveness after that, and loosing the 4-3 downshift would be the main reason to install a switch. So that you could still have passing gear. I usually turn o/d off when I pass someone, so I don't know if I would even use a switch, but I will probably install one anyway. The question I have is... If it takes a while for the ECU/TCU to "learn" what it should be doing, then would turning it on and off with a switch cause it to have to re-learn it each time you turn it on or off. My biggest problem is finding the wire to cut into. I probably didn't answer your question very well, I just thought I would give it a try.

The wire is number 63 pin in the ecu under the hood. If you take off the harness look at the side on the opposite area from where the wires are coming from, there are markings that states the pin numbers. This way, you can double check which wire is which by using the pin markings and the orange w/ black stripe wire.

Stock
TCMpin10--------------pin63ECU


Stock
TCMpin10--------------pin63ECU


-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Well, I went and cut the wire. I didn't install a switch because for one, I don't have an extra right now, and also because I'm not really sure how to run it from the ECU to the inside of my car.

The car shifted at 6.4k twice, and when it did, there was more torque there. The rest of the time, the car shifted at 5k and I couldn't tell alot of difference there. Yeah, It's kinda annoying not being able to just push the gas to the floor and downshift, but I just use the o/d switch for now. Until I can find a way to wire up a switch. I did smell raw gas after I got out of the car. I probably wouldn't have noticed it, but my brother asked me, "what's that smell?". I will give it a few days to re-learn everything.

And while I'm posting, what is the best way to run a switch to the inside of my car from the ECU?

yea after i cut mine it short shifted too, never smelled the gas though, and to make it redline i just manually shift it, always have

Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit

How long did it take for it to start acting different? I can get to 6k in 2nd, but in 3rd, it always shifts at 5k. The only good difference I can feel now is when I shift at 6k in 2nd, the car pulls alittle harder, through the shift. Other than that, everything is exactly the same, performance wise. I'll give it a few more days. I really miss being able to just hit the gas and downshift.

Oh, and it's not 70+ for me, its like 58+ or so. After that, the car won't downshift, unless I manually do it. I was testing a few things out on the way home from work this morning. (I hate getting off at 2:30 am) I only got up to 90, trying to see how my car would act. I just hope it actually does something more useful soon, but its not that hard to go and put the wire back together, so I'm not going to worry about it.

sounds liek this mod ssucks and isnt worth it

^^^after reading this post, this mod sounds like you have more of a chance messing something up than benefitting from the process. I would just go the route of adding a shift-kit, adding a tranny cooler, and possibly a torque converter if you have the money to support the mods.

*winter rebuild in process*
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

Yeah, I plan on buying a cooler sometime next week. After that I will probably get a shift kit, then I might wait a while before I do the final drive.

I hooked the wire back up. The mod was kinda... annoying me. I liked the more powerful shifts, but now that I hooked it back up, I don't really notice a big difference in them. Maybe I didn't give it enough time, but for now, I'd rather not mess with it.