OK, gotta ressurect this one.

Thanks to Alain for this pic of 96+ TCU:


Question 1: What's the box labelled U / D? That's not a schematic symbol I recognize. I think it must be a relay, but the pins aren't labelled, and it's the wrong symbol.

Question 2: What's the Circle marked "F11" "(1)" "Off/Run/Start" supposed to be? It's not labelled "Ignition", so that's not it.

It seems to me the F11 circle should be the "Arm" switch, the one that would be triggered by pushing a real autostick over into the autostick "neutral/O" section of the gear selector. But the schematic doesn't show it with a ground or a switch symbol, so it can't be a switch.

Question 3: Isn't a hall-effect switch a magnetic, 3-position switch?


Full Schematic here: http://www.asog.net/modules/gallery/albums/album62/aan.jp g

This is my interpretation of what I think Alain has suggested will work:

NM. I see where you are heading...Somehow that doesnt look ...uhm nm again . I see how its suppose to work.


get on this , If need be we can test it on my car.

U is UPshifting
D is Downshifting

you could replace the 2 switch that you see inside the box with 2 mommentary switch going from the ECU to ground

F11 on switch is probably a switch that prohibits turning the ignition switch of the car while the stick is push on the side at the autostick position, just like the similar device on the Drive position

Alain

so does this imply we buy extra stuff for it to work (if so how much) or is this just rewiring?

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

Originally posted by jsupetran
so does this imply we buy extra stuff for it to work (if so how much) or is this just rewiring?

If this works you may have to buy 2 pins for the connectors, a few feet of wiring and 2 switches at $2-3 each for good ones

a big $5-6
Alain

i was gonna try this a while ago but got so swamped with school, work and the turbo install that i just didnt have time to do it, ill see when i can get around to it

Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit

Chamuko, give me a call whenever you want to try this.

I have all the electronics necessary, and I'll try and make a prototype on my car this week sometime (in between clutch jobs :() so we can just plug it in to yours and test.

Time to dig that TCU out of the dash...

Sounds good to me. Ill email ya in a bit or call ya later on.

anybody try this yet? im curious about doing this if it works, but cant afford any downtime if something goes wrong...only having 1 car sucks...

Well we were but we spent the time figuring other things first. Cant try it if you dont have a running car you know.:P

hey guys, im going to try this the weekend of dec 26-28. so i would like to check my information real quick so i can get it done and test it.

- 2 momentary switches(push buttons)
- 2 pins for tcm harness(will pins from stereo wiring harness work)
- wire, like 12-14 gauge?

and run the wires(from tcm to ground) from pin 5 to a switch to upshift, and pin 44 for downshifting. and to get the correct pin location, count over slots on the top row, probe with dmm/dvom, and count to pin 44, going top to bottom left to right, and repeat probing. and should get a ground, correct? if not what kind of voltage&erage?

now my question is how will the tcm know when i want it in autostick mode. i thought i read somewhere to put it in the second gear position, but if i did that wouldn't the tcm think i just wanted it in second not autostick? there has got to be some sort of activation switch for it on cars with the autostick option besides just putting it in the appropriate position.

thanks guys

the thought was that 2nd position is where the autostick is on cars that come with it. people just figured it would work like that, but no one has tried yet. the pins you will probably have to buy the whole connector from dodge which might be expensive, but it usually comes with alot of pins which I guess you could sell to others trying to do this mod. dodge wont sell just 2 male/female pins

and supposedly when the TCM gets a ground through pin 5 or 44 its supposed to know its an autostick command and either upshift or downshift.

thanks mcgyvr. ill pull it out that weekend and see what i can do. if it doesnt work, ill let everyone know, and no harm done to the tcm, another ground will either shut the car off(worse case scenario) or do nothing.

I'm fairly certain there needs to be an "ARM/lockout" switch somewhere so the TCU knows whether it's in autostick or automatic mode. My dumbed down schematic does not take that into account. In a real autostick car, the gear shifter MOVES OVER into a new track, that has up and down. That screams switch/relay to me.

The whole selling point of autostick is that you can go to redline before shifting... and downshift to slowdown early. If the TCU doesn't see a lockout signal, it won't wait to shift... just shift when it wants to.

I think if you hook it up as I drew it with 2 momentary switches, you'll find you can probably upshift early, but not late, and probably not downshift at all. It's a start.

yeah i was thinking the same thing. there has to be something besides sliding the stick over and i would like to figure out where it is so this works. im not too good at reading schematics so im not seeing a switch/relay

hey guys I was hoping to get in on this conversation. I have a degree in electronics and just happen to work for satan. I have given discounts to some of u before but what I am wondering is if we need a connector as mentioned above from dodge i can get it for about 30% less than well average joe. If u got a part # i will look up a price and we can figure this out Maybe "find" 1 just laying around on a shelf or sumthing.

shybuck, is there somehow you could get a pic/diagram of the autostick console. like what switches are under the shifter bezel and another of the tcm. im going to start scouring the net looking for info. after looking at the tcm schematics alain posted, i get the feeling that there is another switch. it just makes sense in my head to put a switch to tell the tcm your in a/s mode.

i really want to try this, cant wait til i try.

I will try to look it up on monday. Do u think that the chrysler service manuel would have it? I could just copy the manuel. U want the one for the neon or the pt or what. Cause they both have it As well as some caravans where the shifter is on the steering column, So u dont have to put it in second and slide it over. Yes there is a switch but I dont know ehre it goes to. yet!:thumbsup

shybuck; if you could find what pin number the a/s engage switch is on would be the key to this project. i would assume that the same tcm is used for both a/s and non-a/s cars and the a/s stuff just isnt installed. i think the stratus and pts are more closely related to us, but it shouldnt matter. im going to call a dodge dealer monday and get tcm part #s for both a/s and non a/s strats and my venge(for a dohc 420a). hopefully they will be the same.

i called up a local dodge dealer today to check out some tcm part numbers. the only difference between the a/s cars and non a/s is 1 letter at the end of the part number. the transmission itself is the same, as well as the pcm, engine harness and transmission harness. he looked up the shifter and associated parts and there was no difference. the parts guy said the only difference was the tcm itself and it was more or less the same number, so as soon as i find out where the autostick engage ill try it. but if nothing comes up ill try it and try it in 2nd and neutral...

I will try to get it for u tommorrow. If I remember.

oy, guys, ive been trying to get a username here for a while and just now figured out that the only way i can apparently get one is to click the reply button (wtf?) but i finally got it.

anyway heres the rundown.

autostick is a function of the tcm. nothing inside the transmission itself is different. when you retrofit an autostick tcm onto a non autostick tcm, one of the shifter positions becomes autostick. on cars that have the prnd3l pattern, 3 becomes autostick. on my avenger the pattern is prnd2l. i assume 2 will become autostick. the point is, that in one of the shifter positions, the tranny computer goes into autostick. you dont need any special part.

to shift the tranny while it is in autostick, all you need is a switch that will ground pins 5 or 44 ( i.e. left or right on the switch, for example) and that sends an upshift or downshift request to the tcm, and the tranny shifts.

if you want to actually get an autostick shifter to work on your car, you may have to do some funky wiring.

imo the easiest thing to do is just rig up a nice switch you can reach easily and comfortably while driving, and put in the tcm, and voila.

hey vigo, nice to see another asog member over here.
i was thinking there had to be a switch for autostick to engage. it just seems logical to me. the guy at laurel dodge i talked to today was very helpful, he was checking everything that was remotely related to a/s to see if there was a difference on any parts: shifter, tcm, pcm, and harnesses. he was very helpful in my quest for information about fitting an autostick system into my car.

can you point me to any specific examples regarding what you just stated? i would like to see the process that others have gone through and take what they know and apply it to the situation at hand.

hmm, well during my long search for autostick info i found a nice guy with an intrepid who i learned lives 5 minutes from me who rerofitted autostick onto his intrepid. on his car, all he had to do was put in the tcm and wire up a switch. i drove that car, and it worked flawlessly and was fun to use. of course for intrepid owners they can go to more length if they want to retrofit the autostick gauge cluster to show which gear they are in and with the little A/S symbol, etc, or put in the oem autostick shifter, but for 96-up cars, its really just a tcm and a switch.

on older cars, you have to get the newer style tcm connector as well and wire it into your existing harness.. a few wires changed, and the new connector has all the right wires already there where the old one doesnt. i think that even 95 cars already have the new style connector but i am not totally sure.

:)

yup vigo is pretty close. I checked out the setup on a couple different cars today, stratus pt caravan neon. They all seem to work the same way. All of them only have prnd then +/-. I dont think any of them had od though. I actually pulled 1 apart and saw so interesting stuff. They have a black box that the shifter slides in so u can go +/-. It was ,ok if u pull your gear selector to d then 1 more click and your in 2, but on thiers ur in a/s. So what I was thinking is if u can put ur car in 2 or L now and drive like that and shift at redline, all u got to do is prevent it from shifting by putting the switch on the signal wires to up shift and down shift. That should work great. However if u drive in 2 now ur car will shift way before red in 1st gear, so I think u have to use L as the a/s mode. I couldn't find anything what pin is for a/s, But I think it is Just the L postion and 2 switchs. I could follow the wire cause it went into a big connector then a harness and through the dash. Sorry for so long but Hope it helps.:cheers

oh yeah About that circiut posted a while ago. Why would u want to ground your switch, cause if u close the switch u would have - to + wouldn't u. I mean the tcu is grounded to the body. So why would u just put a switch between the to pins that go from tcu to tranny, like --./.-- instead of --./.ground. If this is wrong ignore but seems logical in theory.

i dont understand what you're saying. when you ground one of the shift signal pins, the tcm interprets that as a shift request. the black box on the a/s shifter must do something different, because it has a lot more than 2 wires going into it iirc, but why bother going to any more trouble than you have to when just shifting it that way feels great? the shifts seem to be a little firmer than normal in a/s btw.

and to further explain about the how to get into autostick, the tcm uses the signal from the trs (transmission range sensor) which is the sensor that reads what position the shift lever on the tranny is in (which of course is connected to your shifter) so it really has nothing to do with the shifter itself.



1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

shybuck, from what i am understanding there is a black box under the shifter bezel that the lever slides into. and the slot for autostick is where our 2 is their autostick. now if there isnt an activation switch and you are just sending the tcm commands to shift then it wouldnt much matter what position the stick is in, right? because you are overriding the sticks position.

there is no activation switch. the only way the tcm knows to be in a/s mode is from the signal it gets from the trs. you can hook your shifter, his shifter, anyones shifter, or a fruit to the end of that shift cable, but as long as the shift lever gets moved to a certain position and the trs sees this, the tcm will go into a/s mode. ;)


1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

yeah that sounds right veng.

well ill give it a whirl weekend after christmas. hook up the switched grounds to pins 5 & 44, stick it in second and see what happens. then let you guys know if anything works.

Just wondering what u think would happen if u hooked it up this way:

t 44---./.---44 t
c r
u 5 ---./.---5 a
n

I case u cant figure that out. It is basically cuting wires 44 and 5 in 2 and reconnecting them with a switch. These to would normally just shift when the tcu was ready right. Then wouldn't this just make it shift when u wanted it to instead. Override the tcu in a way.

well there isnt a wire out of pins 44 and 5 that i am aware of...

if they are they are just sitting there, not connected to anything(highly unlikely). but on the other hand, the a/s and non a/s tranny harness is the same part # so it may be there...

so what i will be doing is installing a wire on pins 44 and 5, running them to a push button momentary switch then grounding them. that should allow me to shift how i please when i please.

less than a week, and im putting in a tranny temp gauge too...makes me happy

this is what im planning(sorry i cant use the proper symbols):

tcm pin 5 ---- switch ---- ground
tcm pin 44 ---- switch ---- ground

So man,

Did you try out the autostick? what was the result?

Has anyone thought of what to do about a shift stick, paddels, or switches?

Found this writeup on fabricating wheel Paddels and an indy shift stick. I know this link is for videogame racing but is the same in principal . ;)

http://www.monmouth.com/~lw4750/shifters.htm

Hmmm now i got a weird question...suposing you got an older tcu (95)...could you just take it out and replace with a newer one for the A-604....maybe off a model that is in the junkyard and allready has autostick??? or is there anny solenoids/ engagement differences??

you could do just that. the only things to consider is that there MIGHT be a slight difference in the pinout of the newer tcm and some pins on the connector that yours doesnt have, so you may have to get the newer TCM connector and solder it up to your harness. then you just run #5 and #44 to either side of a switch and that should be it.



1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

old tcu wont let you redline every gear, as far as i know

AHA therefore it would be a great idea to get new tcm if you got the 75$ to spare.....

hey guys, i havent had a chance to try it out. my laptop got stolen from my apartment on dec 31st so i dont have access to the internet. and its been way too cold, below 32 since christmas and i cant get shop time at school.

i have been looking at the tcm pinout for the a/s equipped stratus and ours. from what im understanding pin 44 is part of the ccd(Chrysler Collision Device, right?) bus. im going to look at a more in-depth wiring schematic monday at school, either on mitchells or alldata whichever one is a better diagram. the key to this project is really going to be finding the arm/disarm switch. im sure that there is one. and what happens when pin 44 is grounded, other than that it should be cool and take very little time to hookup.

so has anyone actually done this yet?

plenty of people have done it to 604 cars.. and its the same damn thing on 2gnts. there is NO on and off switch for autostick. its the trs signal that determines when the tcm goes into autostick.. how many times have i said that so far? and as for pin 44, its NOT part of the ccd bus on a/s tcms. only on the earlier ones.

did somebody say the tcm was only 75 bucks? im interested to know what the things cost from satan. :p



1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

I agree it has been done lots of times but can anyone post a link to a DIY or some sort of writeup...

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between writeups below and our cars?

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=15965

http://www.stratusphere.us/forums/index.php?showtopic=17607&hl=autostick+mod

Much Appreciated

they are both ways to do it, you can get all the autostick parts and righ them up, but its easier for them since the shifter area is similar to the available autostick shifters.

This mod that we are talking about here just uses the switch to select autostick gears. which is only like 5 bucks in cost.

They are buying the autostick TCM, which will also work just fine in our vehicals if you wire it up correctly.

The problem here is that no one has tried it on our stock TCM to see if that will work, but it probably will. so go ahead and be the first, Im too busy/lazy to get under the dash. If the TCM was under the hood I would have done this along time ago

75 from JY if you are lucky enough to have friends in the right places....

Im too busy/lazy to get under the dash. If the TCM was under the hood I would have done this along time ago

isnt the tcm under the armrest? that takes all of 30 seconds to get to


someone make a damn writeup already, ill do it...

no i believe taht is ur airbag control unit or somthing like that, the TCM is located on 97-99's behind the radio under the dash tucked way back under there, in obd1 cars 95-some96 its next to the ecu under the hood, but i think this will only work on obd11 equipped cars?? right?

Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit

Ok, This is my theorey, and it is restating a lot of people's ideas but I have yet to see everything summed up and justified in one post so here it goes...

Also this is my second time typing out all of this since the first time the server must have timed out and it didnt allow me to post when I was finished, needless to say im a little pissed off about that (note to self: type it in Notepad first).


The way I see it is this:

First off to answer a few questions based on my research

Hall switches are described below
http://www.simplemotor.com/hemotor.htm
http://www.melexis.com/prodmain.asp?family=US5781

Based on these descriptions of these switches, they are indeed Magnetic switches, this doesn't mean a whole lot, the only thing here to take in to account is that they act as momentary switches, thus any mechanical momentary swicthes will do.

The reason they use these Hall Effect Switches is their durability, and rigid qualities.

Secondly,

one thing that confused me was this small box in the TCU diagram that lies between F11 and the U/D poles on the switches.

to get into this we need to first know what F11(1) is; IMO it is receiving the same signal as PIN 1 on the TCU. This is a signal from the TRS indicating that it is in the correct "stick position" for autostick.

this brings me to the internal workings of this "box". I beleive it is nothing more than an AND gate which send a (-) signal (same as a ground affect)

thus
assuming U an D get the same result from this box and that pin 44 and 5 are normally low

(NOTE:USING THIS THEOREY THAT THE PINS ARE LOW, THE GND WILL BE INVERTED)

F11|GND|Result
1 1 1
1 0 0
0 1 0
0 0 0

Going on this assumption (not sure if pin 44 and 5 are low or high)

IF(the box is grounded, AND PIN 1 is engaged)

THEN switching U or D will cause the TCU to shift UP or DOWN accordingly

The question still lies, how does the TCU/Tranny know not to upshift/downshit at rev limiter when slowing down? Simple the TRS is linked to the TCU and thus when the TCU is engaged on PIN 1 the Tranny is in autostick mode.

Conclusion:

Forget about the "magic box" with the logic device, its only to ensure that you dont shift up/down using the autostick feature when the TRS is not engaging PIN 1. Thus my assumption that it is a
logical AND inside the box.


In Plain english:
Put a momentary switch on pin 44, and pin 5, Someone please verify if these are normally low or normally high; and stick it in 'L'.

Assuming everything I said above is right, this diagram here by "thedawg" will work. However, the switch off the box that is added in the diagram is simulating the fact that the F11 is also switching on. I beleive that making this always true (by turning on the switch), and without enabling PIN1 via the TRS will cause premature shifting if you use the autostick switches (and possibly negative results). Thus it is ESSENTIAL in my opinion that the car be in 'L' as well as having the switch armed, this will simulate Autostick to the non-autostick car.

Originally posted by thedawg
This is my interpretation of what I think Alain has suggested will work:

With Consideration for my points above the actual function, and a failsafe way to have the car engage into autostick when in 'L' would be as follows




So anyway, I have never been up inside my dash where the TCU is, and I have no idea what pins on the harness will be 44, and 5. If anyone has a picture of the TCU and could label the correct pins. Or draw a picture of the pins it would be greatly appreciated.


thanks again!

all you need is 2 momentary buttons, thats it.

Ya man two momentary buttons, but the above is my attempt to explain why...

show me a picture of what pins they need to connect to and im all over it like white on rice.

also What type of switches?

ex:


GND -----|switch|-----(12V)pin 44
(12V)----|______|

OR

GND________/switch________pin 44


This thread has dragged on too long, lets get it done.

gnd---switch #1---pin 44
gnd---switch #2---pin 5

and if you want you can use 3 switches the extra one for arming the system, so it wont work until you arm it, incase you accidentally hit the up/down switch

so that would be

GND---arming switch ---switch#1---pin #44
\-----switch#2---pin #5

the arming switch just disconnects the other 2 from the ground path

so has any1 done it yet?

no and probably no one ever will :scratch

Alain

no kidding... its not hard.. theres thousands of 2gnt'ers... WHY is this all talk and no results?

anyway, the earlier cars can be made to work with the newer tcm, but you have to rewire the new style tcm connector on your factory harness and the pinouts are NOT the same so you have to do some matching up.. not a real big deal.

also, 5 and 44 are normally hot and grounding them is what sends the shift request.


1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

This is so tempting... it's a good thing I know which pin on my TCU is which though. Would I have any luck finding the switches locally or are these going to be those bugger tough-to-find switches you have to buy like straight from Motorola? I don't think I am electronically-inclined enough to do this to my car.

the switch you would use to control the shifts can be had at radio shack for 3 bucks.

if you explain it to them and they say they dont have it, dont believe them, they are idiots. if you even attempt to explain to them what you will use a switch for, they'll start making stupid faces and excuses.

you could actually do the switch a number of ways , but the simplest thing is to a switch that is off in the middle and can be pushed either left or right, and then slap back to the middle.. i dont know what the term is... momentary center off dpdt switch maybe?


anyway you could mount it sideways somewhere on your dash and hit it left for downshift or right for upshift, etc.




1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

This looks easy enough. Someone point me to the TCU and I will gladly burn it down for the betterment of all fellow 2GNTers.

If you are a 96+ car (i think that is tha cut off point :scratch ), take off your center console side panels (where the shifter is). The TCU is located down, in the front of the radio control head. When you take the console side panels off, you will see a silver-ish metalic box.

I think pre 96 cars. the TCU is behind the computer in the engine bay.

Goodluck Grass-hoppa

-------jezreel
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Oh my god, you guys still haven't done this? lol

Originally posted by jsupetran
If you are a 96+ car (i think that is tha cut off point :scratch ), take off your center console side panels (where the shifter is). The TCU is located down, in the front of the radio control head. When you take the console side panels off, you will see a silver-ish metalic box. I think pre 96 cars. the TCU is behind the computer in the engine bay. Goodluck Grass-hoppa -------jezreel 1998 GS with hrc stage 2, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler Boostin since Aug 03. nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!! thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

yes man, and according to McGyver all the pinouts are etched on it, so there shouldn't be any guess work on what wires/pins to hack into...

yep this mod is sooo easy to try its a wonder no one has done it yet.
there is numbers on the tcu connector probably thats gonna tell you exactly which pins/receptacles you need to mess with, its probably going to be a little tough without the correct tools, ie. pins and a crimper for them but Im sure you can guys can figure something out.

just do a direct solider... thats what i did.... its a little tricky and not much room so if your new to solidering dont try it....

PS the pins break verrrrrrrrrrrrry easy!! :)

yeah i gave up on this project due to me getting a sohc neon 5spd for $75. the 2.4L stratus tcm has a different wiring connector than what we have. so im not sure what wires need to be used, and one of the pins we were talking about using is used for the ccd bus. not good. so good luck guys, im going to a better tranny when i swap in my motor that i am in the process of gathering parts for.

all tcms year for year use the same pins for the ccd bus. the thing is, those pins and some others changed in like 95-96, so if you use a later tcm on an earlier car you have to get the newer connector and solder it onto your harness. otherwise yeh, youd fubar the ccd bus.




1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

If someone whuld make a schematic I will do it... I just have so much do this do that shit here I need to know WHAT TO DO EXACTLY... Email me, IM me... do something... I WILL DO THIS....

dude its done... and it works very well altho i am a 97.... ill post up some pics..and draw some scematics for ya.. :)
jake

AEM cam Gears,MSD ignition,Chikira 4-2-1 header,Custom 2.5" exhast,Pacsetter hiflo cat ,head p/p , intake p/p 2mm oversize tit valves , t/b p/p , shiftkit , TQ lockup mod , and much mor

Originally posted by InFiNiT3
dude its done... and it works very well altho i am a 97.... ill post up some pics..and draw some scematics for ya..

Well its about time someone did it and got it working, I have it all soldered/wired up but havent gotten the car off jack stands yet to try it out.
I fix one part and break another in the process ,rust/stuck bolts/our engine/engine bay layout SUCK.

Originally posted by InFiNiT3
dude its done... and it works very well altho i am a 97.... ill post up some pics..and draw some scematics for ya.. :) jake mor

wow !!!!!!

I made a first statement that this should work circa september 2002 :)

at least someone finally tried it

Alain

Lets see a diagram ASAP... I need to do this.

I have a quick question, if you cut pin #44 to use the pocketlogger software, wont that pretty much make this a dead mod? I know not everyone uses the pocketlogger but for those who do...
Anyways, and wasn't there a "Phase 10" or "Stage 10" or some sorta unit already engineered for this? A lot of questions from a noob.

Originally posted by Keith2172
I have a quick question, if you cut pin #44 to use the pocketlogger software, wont that pretty much make this a dead mod? I know not everyone uses the pocketlogger but for those who do... Anyways, and wasn't there a "Phase 10" or "Stage 10" or some sorta unit already engineered for this? A lot of questions from a noob.

pin 44 of the TCU is not used normally so why would you be cutting it for the pocketlogger???

and yes there was a guy on ebay who claimed to have built a box that would do this, but #1 is over 150 bucks for the box and #2 its using the TCU to control upshifts/downshifts where this mod uses the software programmed into the TCU to upshift and downshift, its totally safe on the tranny

i was told by one of the Reps at Pocketlogger that the reason the software wasn't working right on the automatic Eclipse's is because pin #44 needs to be cut :shrug , I dont understand it but Im afraid that cutting it would interfere with the operation of this mod. If anyone who has done this has a Pocketlogger, I would like to know how they work this setup.

pin 44 goes nowhere on the TCM it's empty

unless you are talking about the pin 44 of the ECM which is not the same computer

Alain

Hmm, maybe it is the one on the ECM he was talking about, Ill have to contact Pocketlogger again. Is this mod really worth all the effort though, I mean these posts go all the way back to what, 2001, and it seems to me you could do the same thing with a shift kit and shifting by hand. If however it does give you complete control over the shifts, then Id do it right now. Automatic tranny's are far superior to manual tranny's with the right technology in them.

there is no wire to 44 so its bs from pocketlogger

So it works... then it don't... then it does... FUCK MAKE UP YOUR MINDS!!! haha

I think Im gonna say screw the pocketlogger, Infint3 found some better looking PDA loggers anyways, speaking of which, hows the schematic coming on this autostick thing, and how does this compare to the Level 10 shiftronc thing?

pin 44 is empty on *NON* autostick tcms.

its one of the shift pins on a/s tcms. so yes it is there when you get the a/s mod done, lol. but what would you want to log off that line? all it does is go to ground when you hit the switch to shift up or down, forgot which.. i cant think of any useful information to be gained there.. but i havent been following closely, im probly missing something.

1993 Dodge Dynasty LE 3.3 Auto, 95k, Stock.
16.2@84mph :D

its not you vigo, its pocketlogger thats missing something...

So when is this shit gonna happen?

Originally posted by Dirty
So when is this shit gonna happen?

when is what gonna happen, autostick works, just do it if you want it..

I guess Im just gonna be a noob and ask this question cause Im not for sure on this, but what Im gathering to make autostick work is:

2 pins, one for pin 44, one for pin 5
2 momentary switches
a switch to connect the momentary switches to ground

I hook the momentary switches up, one to 44, one to 5. I run them to ground through the on/off switch. I stick the selector in 2nd? maybe. And then the switches should control the gear selection.

I dont need a TCU out of like an Intrepid or something, my current TCU will work. If Im wrong please tell me what about, if Im right then Ill probably do it soon, after losing a race tonight cause I couldn't get the damn thing to shift when I wanted it too I am pissed.

Has anyone besides Infinit3 done this to a 2gnt yet? I know the Avenger guys have done it but I want to verify with another 2gnt.

Yep ^^ thats it

and if it works on our avengers it works on the eclipse. same tcu/ecu/engine/etc..

Well in that case :thumbsup , where from or who from do I get those pins, what part number etc. If I do it and Im not in a hurry, Ill probably take pictures. Gotta blow the dust off my digital camera I guess.

you really dont need the pins, just make friends with a soldering iron

Thats how you did it? I haven't really looked at the harness yet so I dont know. Hmmm. This is probably going in before the weekend then, I wonder if my camera still works.

Yeah, this is the most e-hyped thread ever. That's really all there is to it. Doing the Blue LED dashboard light conversion is like 2x harder.

Only unanswered questions at this point are:
1) How the hell Infinit3 blew his tranny, and if it was autostick related
2) If the gear selector has to be in '2' or 'D'.

Also, instead of 2 spst momentary-on (normally open) switches, you could use a spdt momentary-on (normally open) rocker switch.
<- Up/Down buttons (SPST)

<- Up/down rocker (toggle up/down)

Originally posted by thedawg
Yeah, this is the most e-hyped thread ever. That's really all there is to it. Doing the Blue LED dashboard light conversion is like 2x harder.

Sometimes I regret to be the one who started this theory base on my semi-confidential Chrysler books

all the waisted bandwith on the net to read the same messages over and over, always the same :blahblah ... just for a $5 mod that a few hundreds peoples were afraid to try

Alain

Ok, here's the deal, I need to know if anyones got a dealer number for the pin needed, I would like to know this because Im not confident enough in my soldering ability to go after the connector, that and Id like it to be as clean as possible (I know, it's covered and you can't see it when its done). Once I get this done I'll drive it around a bit and I'll crack out the camera and take some pictures, maybe that way we can put this thread to rest and have a full fledged write-up on it :-)

just to say I found 'em, the dealer part # is 101028 for the pins. Hope that helps.

Originally posted by thedawg
This is my interpretation of what I think Alain has suggested will work:

This is exactly how I have it hooked up but for some reason the box I built isn't controlling upshift or downshift at all. I believe that all my wires are connected and I have a solid ground but my TCU isn't responding at all, please help. If anyone is in Visalia area that knows this stuff hit me up.

Fine, I'll bait the hook, if I can get this working I"LL DO A WRITE-UP. I was planning to anyways so I've got some pictures, I just want to make it work before I write it up.

im in the middle of doing it now i'll let you know how it goes for me on my 99 RS. Here are my initial pics









In hindsight I would have gotton the pins for the harness, i think im going to have to wait on getting them. I have a question though... on the top of the harness the place where the pins would go are covered with plastic.. the harness itself doesn't appear to come apart so how do you get these holes opened up? drill them?

later

Well I went down to the dealer and got pins for the TCU, I think the part# is like 101028, thats the number. To be honest I just drilled the plastic to accept the pins, behind the plastic is the orange rubber seal and there's already holes in the seal to accept pins. It was real easy to hook-up, only major problem I had was forgetting to bolt down one of the ground wires :wallbash , which made me feel like an idiot. My deal is I hooked pins 5 and 44 to momentary switches, and from there to a switched common ground. I dont know why it's not working for me, if the pin #'s are right then it must be my switches (damn radio shack) but Im not sure, I'll tear it apart this weekend and check it out again. If I can get it working I'll do some sort of write-up, it's not really that hard though, and I'll put in all my pics. I'll try to post my pics tomorrow on here, if I get off my lazy butt. I hope this helps you out Brent, I know you've got a lot more electrical knowledge then me. Once I finally get this working I had a buddy of mine rig up this cool little gear indicator with one of those multi light LED number dsplays, it's actually pretty sweet. The other thing Id like to get is a remote switch so I can mount a switch on my steering wheel and not have to fuss with wires. That or maybe like a paddle shifter on the floor by my left foot. The ideas just fly dont they

Here was my design for paddles for my wheel, i plan to machine these or cut them with a dremel out of a nice sheet of stainless i have 1/3" and mount them to the air bag bolts. Probably extend the bolts a bit and use rubber bushings or something as spacers and thus giving a spring like action when you pull against them.

If you tap to momentary push buttons on the wheel in front of these paddles then bam you got some F1 style shifters ;)

the other option would be coil type springs wrapped around a shaft that would have to be welded across the two bolts so that it would spool tight as you pull on the paddle and then rebound back.

ANyway... heres the pic of what I have in mind

It may be possible that some TCM could have a non autostick software running inside even if they are "autostick ready " by nature

a TCM flash would be needed from the dealer if that would be the case

everything is possible here

Alain

TCM flash ? sounds expensive :( If I take it into them theyd be able to tell me if it needed to be flashed though, right? One of the guys at Razzari here in Visalia is actually looking forward to seeing me get this done so maybe he'll cut me a deal, right :rolleyes

P.S. I know I promised pics but #1 Im an idiot and cant figure out how to get them posted here, and #2 Brent has pretty much the same pics as me, mine just go into more detail about how to pull apart the connector and stuff. So sorry