Alright I took my baby to the track tonight. Dissapointed would be an understatement. I think I'll put a helmet on and just run naked down the strip next time. I think that would get me better 1/4 times.

All kidding aside, here are my fastest and slowest times:

Slowest:

R/T: 1.055
60': 2.685
1/8: 11.806
MPH: 60.61
1000: 15.255
1/4: 18.192
MPH: 76.68


Best:

R/T: 1.185
60': 2.636
330: 7.590
1/8: 11.653
MPH: 61.25
1000: 15.069
1/4: 17.973
MPH: 77.47

My car is an auto with: Short RAM Intake, GS-T Exhaust, AFX UDP, TC Lockup Kill Switch.

What on earth can I do to get down into the 16's short of Nitrous'ing the son of a bitch?

I knew my car was slow, but not that slow.

On the bright side, I beat a honda civic 18.143 to his 18.995

Also, when My car hits third gear at WOT it drops down like it should to about 4.2K RPM's but once it starts climbing the charts again in 3rd it kind of stalls, and the rpms drop 2-3 hundred before it goes back up again. This is killing my top end right by the finish line. I have the TC Lockup switch installed and activated when I'm racing, Any suggestions?

TIA Guys

This should maybe be in racing forum or in atx discussion perhaps for more precise responses but anyway ..

Was it really hot that day or are you from somewhere w/ high elevation? Times seem slower than average anyway. And how much gas was in the tank? A full tank weighs you down quite a bit and being auto .. you need all the help you can get. Same goes for audio equipment - ditch the heavy sub boxes for better times.

Lastly, you *could* get final drive gears, a cold air intake, a shift kit, 60mm tb, and header.

I ran 17.1 @ 79.7mph in my auto eclipse my first time. I haven't been back since but I am positive w/ a little luck and better weather I could've been around 16.8-16.9ish. My frnd has an auto cav that he was running as well and he was getting around 16.9 and later that week he was landing a 16.4 by lowering tire pressure and getting rid of some gas, so I know I can do better.

However, I'd just get a m/t instead. Going from a 17.1 to a 16.1 or lower (depending on driving), is the best mod besides turbo or nitrous imo. I know I'm going to.





Black 97 Eclipse RS a/t
17'' HP Typhoons
Goldline Springs w/ Tokico Blues
Nakayama CAI
Cat-Back Exhaust
Final Drive Gears
AFX UDP

Metallic Fiji Blue 92 3000GT VR4
Gutted pre-cats
K&N Intake

It was about 85 degreeish when I was racing, and I have nothing really weighing my car down. I made a point to only have 1/4 tank of gas when I got to the track, and I do not have any subs or amps or crap like that in my car. It was really friggin humid though and I"ve heard that out cars dont tend to like humidity very well, so that could have been a factor as well.

Any Idea how much a manual swap would cost?

The manual swap is the cost of the manual transmission, an ECU from a manual tranny car (so you'll have a 500 rpm higher redline), the master cylinder/slave cylinder, the pedal assembly, shift cables, other stuff I'm forgetting. I don't know the total cost, can't be more than $600 or so, but don't quote me on that! Defenitely do a search on manual tranny swap, the info is on the board somewhere.

Oh, I forgot, you have to install the damn thing. :D Not a fun task to do yourself (you need someone to help you out with this!) I think labor for such a swap would cost about $500.

It's hard to get much faster than high 16s with moderate bolt ons and an auto tranny. The auto tranny just soaks up alot of power. The manual helps alot.

first thing.

>Lastly, you *could* get final drive gears, a cold air intake, a shift kit, 60mm tb, and header.<
I have all of that and can get at best a 17.7 @ 77mph.

keep the trans and boost. you can spool off the line, traction will NEVER be a problem and your ecu pulls timing at shifts, so leaning out at shifts isn't a problem. also you keep spooling throughout the shifts. the biggest problem will be reliability issues with OUR trans with that much HP.

IMO