"great scott" is the only thing i could think of when i took this picture. looks like i'm going to be soldering all weekend!

anyone installed one of these before? any advice? i'm guessing all i'll need is my Chilton's manual to locate different wires, and then suck it up and do some serious soldering.

oh yeah. i saw the antenna, it looks like a dipole, probably already designed pretty well, so i probably won't put much effort into building a better one.

i also probably won't be able to resist taking apart the unit and putting their antenna on the network analyzer at work to see what frequency range it works best at, just for kicks...

Here ya go, this should be all the info you need.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=656546#post656546,

Don't let it overwhelm you, just concentrate on one wire at a time.

Have fun, and install it smart. :thumbsup

Originally posted by ner947
"great scott" is the only thing i could think of when i took this picture.

Looks like what I saw when I did mine. You should check out http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html Check the electrical stuff, all the important wires are under the steering. Hell, I didn't soldier at all and still working!!! Good luck!

I've installed a number of alarms and I never soldered all those wires. I'd crimp them (w/ butt connectors) since they arn't voltage sensitive (in most cases) unless your just a neat freak.

Oh yeah, check that link I posted up top for wire colors, some of them are year specific, and the ones listed on the vfaq are in general.

I'm a DEI installer, and you won't end up using half of all those wires for our cars. Here is a link to some more wiring info:

http://www.tridiamondpower.com/carpics/eclipsewire.htm

Yeah I was a DEI installer for a few years too. You'll use about half those wires. Just be mindful of how short you cut them.

Got the same system, and got a couple more sensors (audio and field disturbance). About to tackle it myself...

BTW, will I be able to program the system? I saw a reference to the BitWriter 998T and programing the unit...

-Corey

Originally posted by MajinVejitaXV
Got the same system, and got a couple more sensors (audio and field disturbance). About to tackle it myself... BTW, will I be able to program the system? I saw a reference to the BitWriter 998T and programing the unit... -Corey

No, not unless you own a bitwriter. You'll have to take it to Circuit City or somewhere that installs them to have them program it.

Yes, you CAN program the unit by yourself, without the bitwriter. There should be a section in the back of the installation manual, that tells you how to do it. YOu need to use the black valet pushbutton switch, and the red LED to do it. Read the directions carefully, and you should be able to do it easily.

LOL, oh yeah, i forgot about that.


Go have someone with a bitwriter do it anyway. Takes like 2 minutes and there's no guessing

you only actually NEED the bitwriter for certain programmable features on DEI units. its just usually for added flexibility. for example using the valet switch to program you might be able to set the alarm length for 30,60, or 90 seconds. with the bitwriter it would let you set it for any time in 1 sec increments between 0 and 90 seconds. it's that type of thing. i've repgrogrammed a lot of the features on my alarm myself using the isntall manuals you can download from DEI's site. www.viper.com :thumbsup

but yes, i'm sure it's much easier to program with the bitwriter. on the other hand if your alarm brain is deep inside your dash, it'd be a lot easier to program using the valet switch b/c you wouldn't have to dig out your alarm brain.

*edit*
nice alarm, btw. i would've gone for that one but the 800 had a lot more channels for me to play with :)

ugh... i started the installation tonight and worked for about 2 hours and finished most of it. i still have to hook up the power lock triggers finish the remote starter stuff, and some other things.

everything is pretty straight forward. i didn't have to use 2/3 of the wires in the picture above.

one question... there is a thick green wire that goes into the remote starter power relay thingy, it's suppose to act as an "anti grind" or some weird thing wire. i already hooked up the remote starter wire to where it needs to go on the ignition harness, but i guess it needs to know if the car is started to terminate the starting sequence? or does the remote starter just crank until it sees a tach signal, meaning i should leave the green "anti grind" wire unhooked?

Originally posted by ner947
ugh... i started the installation tonight and worked for about 2 hours and finished most of it. i still have to hook up the power lock triggers finish the remote starter stuff, and some other things. everything is pretty straight forward. i didn't have to use 2/3 of the wires in the picture above. one question... there is a thick green wire that goes into the remote starter power relay thingy, it's suppose to act as an "anti grind" or some weird thing wire. i already hooked up the remote starter wire to where it needs to go on the ignition harness, but i guess it needs to know if the car is started to terminate the starting sequence? or does the remote starter just crank until it sees a tach signal, meaning i should leave the green "anti grind" wire unhooked?

The thick gauge green and purple wires are your starter wires. If you do not want the anitgrind/starter kill feature, just dont connect the green wire up. If you want it, CUT the stock starter wire at the ignition harness, connect the GREEN wire to the key cylinder side, and the purple wire goes to the starter side of the cut wire.

thanks matt!

with any luck i'll have the thing done tonight.

also, what other sensors can i get? the kit i got came with a "stinger" shock sensor, i'm not quite sure how it works or what exactly it does... i've seen other alarms that have little microphones near the windows to listen if the glass is broken, and i've also seen proximity sensors so the siren will chirp if someone touches the car or gets really close... how do those work?

lastly, i found a good spot for the transponder antenna, right below the rear view mirror. i ran the connector wire up in the headliner, and down the a-pillar. hopefully i'll get decent range with it there.

the headliner wasn't any fun to play with! there was all of this yellow fiber crap that fell down and got into my hands... felt like i had a dozen or so splinters, but i couldn't see them and washing my hands didn't fix anything. oh well, they'll fall out sooner or later.

Originally posted by ner947
thanks matt! with any luck i'll have the thing done tonight. also, what other sensors can i get? the kit i got came with a "stinger" shock sensor, i'm not quite sure how it works or what exactly it does... i've seen other alarms that have little microphones near the windows to listen if the glass is broken, and i've also seen proximity sensors so the siren will chirp if someone touches the car or gets really close... how do those work? lastly, i found a good spot for the transponder antenna, right below the rear view mirror. i ran the connector wire up in the headliner, and down the a-pillar. hopefully i'll get decent range with it there. the headliner wasn't any fun to play with! there was all of this yellow fiber crap that fell down and got into my hands... felt like i had a dozen or so splinters, but i couldn't see them and washing my hands didn't fix anything. oh well, they'll fall out sooner or later.

There are quite a few additional sensors you can get. The mic sensor you speak of is the glass breakage sensor, it listens for a specific frequency of breaking glass. It works ok for what it does, but not really a "need" item. The proximity sensor, or "motion sensor" works good too. It uses microwaves to detect motion around the car, with range being adjustable to around 5ft or so around the car. It needs to be mounted to the centermost point in the car, I usually put them under center consoles, and in our cars, right by the ABS module works well. It only goes through windows though, so its use is somewhat limited. They tend to false at times too, esp if adjusted to sensitive. Also, if you have "metalized" window tint, its not really going to work at all, since the tiny metal particles block the microwaves. Yeah, we normally put the antenna right by the rearview, and run the cable down the pillar. DO NOT bunch up the extra ant cable, or zip tie it together, as this WILL cut down your range. Just try to stretch it out as good as you can. And for the shock sensor, try to zip tie it to something very solid, like the steering colum shaft. If its on something that is flimsy, the shock sensor will be VERY sensitive, and false trigger. I try to set them so with a decent hit on the glass, it gives the warn away chirps, and a little harder hit, sets off the alarm.