OK, i'm gonna be running an MTX (garbage, I know) 220 RMS 420 peak sub amp and an audiobahn A6004T (75w *4) 4ohms...i'm not sure what the power "rating" is for that amp, but from the title i'm guessing they call it a 600 watt amp. OH, the peak on the Audiobahm is like 200 watts I think.

Ok, so I already have the MTX amp installed, can I just use that one 8 guage wire as a power source for both? How do I do that, do I cut it and put batt==audiobahn then audiobahn==MTX amp on the power line, or do I splice some more 8 guage to the existing power cable?

Thinking not having 2 power lines will look cleaner and save alot of time...

thanks!
vandy

I would run 4ga just for the reason I perfer overkill when it comes to power and ground wires. After you run your power wire to the back the you will need a distribution block which you can then power cables to each amp from and use 8ga since the distance is much shorter from the block to each amp. Also you can buy kits for hooking up two amps... last time I looked Wal-mart even had a kit.

If I just hook up the second amp like I hooked up the first will it be a problem? I"m not sure i wanna deal wiht distribution blocks, it seems like kinda a pain in the ass for just a sub amp and and amp to power speakers...how much do these go for?

thanks for the help,
Vandy

ok did some more research and you're probably right about the dist. block, esp. because they're so cheap. (i was kinda expecting like 200 bucks, not gonna lie...15 bucks is just fine by me)

Questions are, now that i'm getting into "serious" install where I can't just use a fosgate amp kit, what kinda wiring should I use and what shoudl I fuse? ALso, how do you get the wire to attach to the fuse holders? do you just crimp it?

This is gonna be kinda fun, i'm looking forward to it...(but not trying to fit my 6*9's in the pods) :rolleyes

Thanks!
Vandy

Originally posted by Vandy420a
Questions are, now that i'm getting into "serious" install where I can't just use a fosgate amp kit, what kinda wiring should I use and what shoudl I fuse? ALso, how do you get the wire to attach to the fuse holders? do you just crimp it? This is gonna be kinda fun, i'm looking forward to it...(but not trying to fit my 6*9's in the pods) :rolleyes Thanks! Vandy

Well heres the one that Wal-mart sells its cheap but does the job.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?cat=3947&dept=3944&product_id=1863080&path=0%3A3944%3A3947%3A96490

Heres a fosgate kit from Crutchfield

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-MVJMlzlNAeZ/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=11&g=711&I=575CP4DCKS&o=m&a=0&cc=01&avf=N

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-MVJMlzlNAeZ/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=11&g=711&I=211PS4B&o=m&a=0&cc=01&avf=N

Instead of explain each thing look at this page and if you have any questions feel free to ask away :thumbsup

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-NcgMck2vPMW/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_faq.html

EDIT: wtf wrong thread drunk... delete.

wow thanks thats huge....pts..

Vandy

"Ground your amplifiers in reverse fashion — one 10-gauge and two 8-gauge ground cables run from the three amplifiers to a grounding block. A 4-gauge ground cable connects the grounding block to your vehicle's chassis. You'll need a relay on the turn-on lead to protect your receiver. A relay connected to the power antenna lead draws little current from the receiver, but supplies enough power to turn on all your amps simultaneously. "


ok so what does this mean? I need to connect the main power from the battery to one block and from there go tothe amps, and then connect each ground wire to a single block, then ground the block? Also, how crucial is the relay on the remote turn on wire? Is it pretty basic to wire?

Thanks!
Vandy

The relay will help out from frying your turn on lead. It's not hard to wire up. As far as the blocks go you have it on the money. Just remember that your leads from the blocks shold both be the same size(ie 4GA pwr, 4GA ground). Good luck with your install....

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-JZhekf57Tan/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_wiring.html

This picture may help a little too.... I hope I'm not confuseing you in anyway. Its kinda hard to explain but, you catching on rather quick.

sweet...thanks guys I really appreciate it...do I need to fuse the ground too, as in the pictures? I would think not, as current is flowing the other direction away from the amps (i know this isn't correct terminology, but you get what I mean) THe picture I think has fused grounds, but if there's nothing connected to teh end of the cable, hence a ground, I should think it doens't need to be fused...

Thanks for the help, i'm gonna go pick up some misc. stuff today and hopefully tackle it friday! (2nd amp has yet to arrive)

Vandy

Well I hope everything goes well ...please keep us informed on how the install goes ....good luck :thumbsup

just run 0 gauge bro
_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

Planning on starting the install this weekend and hopefully finishing it later in the week..i'm a student and in the army reserve so I have ZERO time, but I just wanted to thank you pudd dogg for all the help, w/o it i'd be propaf*cked...:thumbsup

thanks again, i'll keep you posted

Vandy

P.S. a 5 amp fuse is enough for the fuse from the HU to the relay, right? It seemed form there it jumped to like 20 and 30, and although these'd never blow I kinda figured if 30 amps are going through there before it blows the HU is done anyways...:shrug

thought id chime in here:

i didnt go to any of the links provided, but ill give you my input.

no, you dont need to fuse the grounds. the "ground current" is running through the frame of the car anywyas, so any shorts wouldnt result in any damage. just to fuck with your head: that doesnt assume the current flows in that direction, even in a DC setup. many belive it actually flows from - to + . ;-) thats waaaaaay too theoretical though, im not going to touch it, lol.

you probably wont need a remote-turn-on relay, in fact, i can promise you that. ive run 5 amps off of my old clarion unit before with no problem. please DO fuse the remote lead though, you can wire a 2ish ampere fuse in there.

another helpful hint: fuse whenever you step down in guage (for the power wire), so if you have a 4 guage split to two 8ga. outputs, fuse the 8ga appropriately. if you have a 4ga split to two 4ga wires, you dont need to fuse, theres no reason to. the fuses are there to protect the wire upstream from it, not the equipment on the end.

run the main power wire from the engine bay through the HUGE grommet on the passengers side footwell. its the easiest place and theres plenty of room, plus you only need to pull the carpet back a tiny bit to get to it.

well, thats all i can think of now. if you run into any problems, post it here, im sure we'll get you through it.

good luck! the first "tough" install is always the most gratifying. :thumbsup

No problem Vandy like I said I hope everything goes well for ya.... SPL touched on alot of good points like I said before its hard to explain the whole deal out cause no matter what it seems like I forget to metioned something important. :shrug

Good Luck :thumbsup

ok sorry one more question: I"m using the infinity (stock) wiring, and have tracked down which speaker wire goes where with the 9V battery test, but when I got to the speakers the colors of the wiring changed...how can I tell which is pos and neg? Can I use an OHm meter to tell this? how?

Thanks!

Vandy

All the wires in the car are black and black with white stripe at the speaker. I always use the white stripe as positive. As long as you maintain this method throughout you'll be fine.

hey arron, good point, i didnt realize that!

another way to test is this: hook up the battery to the speaker you removed. if the cone moves outward, youve got the battery hooked up in correct polarity. then you can match the identified speaker terminals to the stock wires that came off of them.