Heres the deal. i have two brand new 12" MTX Power6000 subs that will be going into a custom enclosure that im building. What i dont have is an amp. The subs are 250W RMS max single 4-ohm voice coil, 600W max. Do i need an amp that can supply 250W RMS at 4 ohms or is one that supplies 125W RMS at 2 ohms ok to use. I dont want to spend more than $200 but i want to be able to bump my system pretty good. I also am getting a 1.0 farad cap. If possible i would like a MTX amp. Any suggestions. thanks


Curt

http://www.woofersetc.com/product.asp?0=362&1=363&3=131

there you go. ;) 500 (probably makes closer to 650, knowing mtx) watts into a two ohm mono load. just wire your subs in parallel to the amp and youre set.

actually, i would try to get the biggest amp i could with whatever money you have to spend. i would also ditch the idea of getting a cap and put that money into the amp instead. after you install it determine wether or not you need a cap. thats just IMO, though.

To keep close to your price range I would check out the JBL BP600.1. It will give you some pretty decent power for your subs and prevent you from spending a whole lot. You can get these for just over $200 brand new if you look hard enough. I know there's a few online stores that sell them around the $250 range.

You probably won't need a capacitor and they're not always the solution to power problems anyway. Also when you get your amp kit.. I'd say go ahead and get a 4 gauge kit. 8 might be a little low for you and 4 ga will def. be fine and allows you room to upgrade in the future.

MTX amps are the shit. i have had my thunder302 for about 5 years now and have never had a problem with it.

Thanks for the input guys. I had a Punch100 amp powering two 12" XTR Pro at one time and the light dimmed evertime the bass hit. Thats why i was thinking about the cap. I already have a 4 gauge power cable run to the hatch area with a 3-way distribution block, just have to connect it to the battery and im good to go. I will probably bump the budget up to $250 and work with that. Once again thanks for the advice and if you have anymore to add, feel free.

i would get a kenwood 1000 watt amp, thats what im currently running. At best buy they r on sale for 189 and for 20 bucks u get the plan so if ur amp blows u get it fixed or replaced for free.

Does this look like a good amp for the subs i have?
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-9fTQYCrWfNZ/ProdView.asp?a=&s=0&cc=01&g=130&id=features_and_specs&i=500MRDM300
i can get one for $100

I just bought that amp the other day and love it. I say go for it especially if you can get it for 100.
Josh

What are you powering with it? i have 2 12" mtx Power6000s. will it be good enough to power them?

that amp should be adiquate, and is a good deal for 100 bucks, but its always a good thing to get "too much" power as opposed to "just enough", IMO. if you do end up geting it, dont just turn everything up (bass boost, gain, etc.) to compinsate for the wattage.

that being said, i think that the majority of the poeple out ther would be happy with that amp, it should provide enough power to get some really good bass, but wouldnt be suffecient to meet my needs of total deafness in 3 seconds, LOL. it all depends on what you are looking for.

You get what you pay for.. just keep that in mind when looking for an amp. I say get something that is "too powerful" and run it turned down as instead of running something too little or just enough turned all the way up. Go to local dealers and hear stuff before you buy, test it out to get a feel for how it works, just keep in mind it will sound different in your car. Good luck man.

Thanks guys, all of this is very helpfull. I will take your advice about going to a stereo shop and hearing it. maybe circuit city will have my exact setup in there testing room. I think i may look for a more powerfull amp than the M300. My subs are rated at 600W max, so do i need an amp that pushes 600W or 1200W if the subs are wired parallel?

dont ever pay attention to the "max power" or "peak power" ratings, they are all marketing BS. the only thing you should even pay attention to on both speakers and amps is the RMS rating. that being said, you can almost throw those ratings out of the window as well. subs mechanical/thermal tolerences will change drastically depending on the box they are in among other things. i know that doesnt help a lot, and probably just adds to the confusion, but unfortunatly thats the way it is in the car audio world. :P

just get the biggest amp you can afford that still retains quality and features you would like. from there you can adjust the gains to a level appropriate for the subs. i wouldnt disregard that alpine amp, it should put out a good amount of power to those subs. the thing i worry about is the type of person you are, if that makes sense. ive run into far too many people who say "ive got a sub that takes 300 watts RMS, and an amp that produces 300 watts RMS, so ill just turn the gains all the way up in order to 'match' them". thats not the way you want to do things. my point being.....the combo of those subs and that amp will give you awesome results for the money youve invested, no question about it. the problem is that if you decide you want a little more, youll have to upgrade the amp (and possibly the subs) to achieve that. if you think youll be satisfied with what i would consider a "slightly more then moderate" setup, you should be fine with the alpine amp. people will be able to heard you from several blocks away, if you are concerned about that kind of thing. just dont fall into the turn-the-knobs-up-a-little-bit-more pit, LOL. ;)


also, going to stereo shops to audition equpment is a very good idea, however keep in mind that a listening room cant reproduce cabin gain and the acoustical nuances of a car enviropnment, so expect things to be a little "flatter" and less-than-amazing when you are listening to them. the important thing about auditioning is that you get a comparison of products so that you can hear the differences between them. these differences usually translate into the car environment in a similar fashion.

Honestly, i wasnt even looking to build a system but, i found those subs brand new for $77/each delivered. I couldnt pass that up. I dont even want people to here me blocks away, its kinda embarrassing to me. I guess what im saying is im looking to get the best quality and some boom. The sheet that came with the subs says i can get 114dB SPL with and eclosure volume of 1.25 ft^3.( one sub, 2.5 ft^3 for both of them. Right???) Im building the enclosure myself. its gonna look like this
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