i have a RF SVC 12" (200W/RMS) hooked up to a kenwood KAC-7201 460RMS bridged.

i went to tweeter the other day and the "Sales Rep" wanted me to buy a JLW3, he said it was the perfect sub for my amp.

Would it actually sound different having a better sub for my amp?

It's going to be louder or cleaner?

i have a ported box about 2cu Ft.

also i just received my fatmat so i will install it this next weekend. hope to also as a side effect cure most of my rattles.

If you like the way your sub sounds now, i dont see a point in spending the money and changing it. Sales reps always say their products are better.

I personally like JL Audio subs better the RF. JLs subs do it all. Loud and clear. A 12w3v2 handles 300w of power. A 2-3 ft^3 ported box will work with that sub well, depending on port size and such.

I hope i helped a lil, im sure SPL will reply with some more info.

Im installing my fatmat next weekend also, getting my JL500/5 and stealth box this weekend.

G

hahah...^^^^^ i had to chime in sooner or later, right? :P

^^^yes, i agree completly, although i am not a fan of RF or JL for various reasons. as has already been said, if you are happy with the sysyem you currently have, theres no reason to change it. although the JL has the *potential* to sound a *bit* louder and generally better, the price/performence gain ratio might not appeal to you (it certainly wouldnt to me). the best advice i can give you is to simply listen to as many installs as you can with the w3 and decide from there.

to me, the most important part of a sub install (within limits) is the box. they can make or break the system. you mentioned that you have a 2 cubic foot ported box, but didnt mention the port diameter and length (assuming a round port). just as a guestimation, the jl (or any other 12 for that matter) should sound pretty good with a round port 3" in diameter and about 12" long. you shouldnt have any trouble with port noise assuming you arent running a ton of power, but if you want to be on the safe side you can go with a 4" diameter port that is about 17" in length. these are very rough numbers though, and although they are probably close, you should look at the manufacturers suggest box info to get ideas. i personally like to take the ported box specs and keep everything the same but add a little bit more airspace in the box to make things a little boomier and deeper. thats just the sound i prefer though, you might not like it at all. well...im going to get waaaaay off topic here if i write anymore, so ill leave it at that. take what you can from this incoherent rambling, lol. ;)

>to me, the most important part of a sub install (within
>limits) is the box. they can make or break the system. you
>mentioned that you have a 2 cubic foot ported box, but didnt
>mention the port diameter and length (assuming a round port).


It's actually a rectangular port on one side of the box.

since you are the Guru here and you tell me that you have issues with JL and RF what do you suggest for a 400 RMS system. I'm not very technical my self, but if we where talking about colors and the real cool hard hitting bass was a black color, i say right now my bass is kinda like a darkish blue.

Also i have a 4 AWG Wire to a distribution block on the back then it splits in to 2 8 AWG wires, one for my 800 Watts amp and 1 for my 640 watts amp, is this thick enough?

Thanks for all your help BTW. You guys know it all. :thumbsup

"since you are the Guru here"

thanks for the compliment!, but im definatly NOT a guru, lol. theres a lot of great people in the audio forum who dont post whore like me (unfortunalty!).:P

"what do you suggest for a 400 RMS system. I'm not very technical my self, but if we where talking about colors and the real cool hard hitting bass was a black color, i say right now my bass is kinda like a darkish blue."

whoa, thats the trippiest thing ive read in a while. next time someone asks me how my system sounds im gonna say "well, today its been sort of orange, but once i adjust my gains it should be more grey" LOL! unfortunalty, i cant really answer your question in a manner that you would hope for. i must explain that i am poor and miserly, so my ultimate goal is to get the best bang-for-the-buck and spend more time then most would take during the install and tuning of the system. thats the main problem i have w/ JL, they are great subs, but many other manufacturers are catching up quickly to thier performence and selling products at half the price. RFs i just dont like, not since thier old DVC line that ended in 98-99. geting back on track.... i really cant give you any suggestions because i could be really wrong about what your tastes are. plus, there are only a few product lines that i am really knowlegable about. i know far more about generic install questions then product specific information. so basically, just use your ears, go around ot as many different audio shops as you can, and decide from those experiences. talk to the sales people, but keep in mind that they are there to sell you stuff, and they are most definatly biased like crazy. i personally use audiobahn subs because i thought they had good potential, i read up on them, listened to them, and finally found an awesome deal on the via ebay (that was the main factor in getting them, LOL). ive also heard of many, MANY people liking the alpine subs.

"Also i have a 4 AWG Wire to a distribution block on the back then it splits in to 2 8 AWG wires, one for my 800 Watts amp and 1 for my 640 watts amp, is this thick enough?"

that should be fine. make sure the wire is fused at the distrobution block, however. a 60 amp fuse on each wire should work. if you dont wish to go out and buy a fused distrobution block (assuming you dont have one now), just upgrade the 8 guage to 4 guage for the amps. theres no reason to fuse if you dont step down in guage size.

It would probably be louder and cleaner.. esp if you go with the 12w3v2.

I might even expect the 12w0 which only requires 125watts RMS to get a little louder.