ok i have tried to do some research but i have found little help on the subject. i want to put just a simple fiberglass sub enclosure with a wood top. i have bought the wood, fiberglass resin from home depot with 2 canisters of hardener and is made by bondo, epoxy paste stuff i kno to apply to the wood, and fiberglass MAT for the strips. Am i forgeting anything and how the hell do i make this thing i know you remove the spare tire brackets and tape aluminum foil down but what else do i do, detail would be appreciated.

look it up on the net...I know there is a pretty good write-up out there that someone did for a Maxima, or an Altima (I believe, can't remember right now...late!)...just look up building custom fiberglass sub boxes or something similar to that

Check this out! He is a member on here.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=26639&page=3

thanks you guys

No problem, that's why we are here!

>Check this out! He is a member on here.
>http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=26639&page=3


Now you have me a little nervous. I see that you found my site and know my secrets.

Masking tape will not stick to the fiberglass resin, but when I redo my system, I will be using a different approach. For starters, the masking tape gets hot when the hardner starts to set it. That allows for the tape to "melt" slightly.

When I redo the box, I will line the bottom of the spare tire well with 3mil clear plastic. Once lines, I'll use "vaseline" on the plastic to allow for the resin to be removed from the bottom of the car.

I've been told to use this method of using glass, but I do not know how it will work. I know that the masking tape does, so best bet, go with it.

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

can i buy your box when you redo your system?
i still havent gotten my system even though i bought it a month ago :(

What size of speakers did you create the box for?

My enclosure is made for three JL Audio 10W3D6's. I forget the exact size of the enclosure's inner space, but the box pounds.

Thanks,

i made a custom fiberglass box back in july with one of my friends. let me tell you, it's a PITA and it takes a long time to get everything all said and done. you have to cut out the crap that holds the spare tire with a sawsall or something, then sand it down a little, then paint the bare metal so it doesn't rust.

this is where it gets tricky. i was designing a box for a 12" aluminum eclipse, and i wanted to hide my amp somewhere in there too. the idea was to be able to still be able to fully use my trunk if i needed to, AND make it look like a stealth installation.

the secret is being able to cut wood very well. i "acqired" a few large sheets of 1/2" fiberboard, the stuff is great. strong, and cuts easily. i decided to split up the spare tire well in half, the back part for the box and the front for the amp. i measured the width and the depth of the well, then guessed on the shape of the wood that i needed for it to stick in there vertically. with some guessing, checking, good skill saw usage, and some irish luck, i had a piece of wood dividing the front and rear half of my former spare tire enclosure. duct tape the thing into place.

now you have to do a one more panel for the box... the rear. more guess and check. so now there are 2 pieces of wood seperating out the rear and the front of the part of the spare tire well that you want to put your sub enclosure in. (BTW, i didn't calculate the cubic foot requirement for ideal resonance or any crap like that, i just basically said "screw it") i put down some gray carpeting (the main structure of the box), and started to pile on the fiberglass. man, that shit stuck to EVERYTHING. hell, i even got some in my hair somehow. took a week to get out. wear disposable latex gloves. and good ventelation is good too so you don't pass out. mixing the crazy hardner (really small packets) and the resin is a bit tricky, if you've never mixed the two before pratice on small quanities first. once you've got the mixture right, start painting it on to the inside of the box. lots of coats is key here, for air-tightness and for it to be strong. just don't forget that when you get the "tomato soup sitting out for 20 mintues" filmy effect on the top of the fiberglass, you've got about a minute before the fiberglass begins to be unworkable. the chemical reaction happens FAST and the fiberglass will become unworkable. it heats up and even smokes a little when it's drying. i screwed it up the first time, and had a batch of fiberglass that i almost wasted so i just dumped the whole chunck of jello-like almost dried fiberglass into the bottom of the sub box. the key here is a lot of layers, but don't go crazy.

once you think you have enough layers of fiberglass, let it dry and the next morning pry it out of the spare tire well. tada! you've got half of a box. it's not a box until you put the top on. measure stuff, guess and check, etc... i nailed my box top (don't forget the hole for the sub!) to the front and rear panels, ran some wire through through a hole in the side, then sealed the whole thing with a LOT of hot glue and this weird "greatstuff" that was yellow and foamy and expanded as it dried. it actually worked pretty well. ok, so you think you have a box after everything's dry? put the sub in and seal it. put your hand on the cone of the sub, and move it up and down. there's a 100% chance you've got a leak somewhere, run your ear around where you put the hot glue and "greatstuff" to listen for leaks while a friend tweaks with the sub. the first time i tested my box for leaks i had about a 2 dozen small leaks.

so, you've got a box now. it's sealed and nice. neat. what do you do with the rest of the space? it's a good place for an amp. i'm not gonna write up how i did mine, because it was really easy. no, i didn't bolt it to the sub box, i'm not interested in cross-modulation.

the cover for the whole thing is also pretty easy too. i took the stock thing that flips up and down to reveal the spare tire and traced a figure on a large piece of 1/2" fiberboard and guessed where to cut the 12" hole for my sub. i got lucky, it looks pretty good, if i was able to host images i would. anyways, i'm done now.

>can i buy your box when you redo your system?
>i still havent gotten my system even though i bought it a
>month ago :(

I got dibs... ;)
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcforum/DCForumID18/805.html

Well, My subs and encloure are officially for sale. I will only sell them together, as the enclosure is specifically made for the (3) JL's. I'm only asking a mere $400 for everything. Actually, I'm selling everything in my trunk for $2000. The list includes: Subs, Enclosure, amps (with on-board crossover modules), sink links, endcaps, cover panels, Mirrored Plexi, and the mounts. I'm giving away everything cheap, but it's time to upgrade. I won't part with the neons, however.

You will have to do some custom work to the trunk of your car, as the spare tire well has to be removed.


The subs are JL Audio 10W3D6's. Serious inquiries can email me. I'm willing to negotiate, but only with reasonable offers.

Thanks,


(sorry mods, but this seemed to be the best place to make this post, as it fits into the context of the original post.)

anyone got some good links on usging fiberglass and getting a nice finish that is paint able?(ie smooth)

i got all my info from sorry to say clubsi.com

wow this post is old, i got my system already so im out, but is it still for sale?

any good fiberglass links guys?
<<wants to learn the trade

If you buy the 3m masking tape, (the florescent green kind) at napa or auto zone, it has a wax coating that will release fiberglass. it's a little expensive ($8.50 a roll) but it's soooo worth it. fiberglass simply peels right off. you can either use that, or i've seen installs done with thick garbage bags to protect the car from fiberglass.

You can also lay aluminum foil down 1st so that the resin doesnt stick to it. Thats what I did. http://wickedstylz.com/jim/

>any good fiberglass links guys?
><<wants to learn the trade

The forum at: www.fiberglast.com