Does anyone know anything about remote starter for MT? Does anyone have instructions for them? I also want to know brand names and sites that i could find these information. Hit me back!

Although as an installer, i dont recomend haveing a remote starter on a manual trans car, there is a good way, and a bad, unsafe way to do it. I recently did my car, which is a 5 spd. If you must do a remote start on a manual, YOU MUST USE SAFETY SWITCHES OF SOME NATURE SO THE CAR DOES NOT CRANK WHILE IN GEAR!!!!! If you dont use any safety switches, you will regret, cause someday you will leave the car in gear..trust me.. Here is what i did, and works great.

I use a DEI remote starer system. These systems have several wires on them to use for connections to safety switches. To disable the clutch start switch, all you have to do is unplug it. A better way to do it, is to use a relay that interupts that switch when the car remote starts, so as that clutch switch works normally. Follow the clutch switch right at the pedal, and follow the switch wires. You will come to a white plug, one end is male, the other end is female. Just undo this plug, and thats it.

Now for safety switches:
I used 2 DEI mercury switches for my install. One switch is mounted to the shifter lever itself, and one to the e-brake lever. This way, if the shifter is in gear, the mercury inside the switch is tilted to not make a ground connection to the wire that needs a ground to start on the remote starter. With the shifter in N, the gound is complete, and it can then remote start. (this configuration only protects from starting in 1st, 3rd, and 5th. You will need another switch on the other side of the shifter lever attached the opposite direction to protect 2nd, 4th, and R) Now the second mercury switch is mounted to the -brake lever. If you take off the center console, you will see a metal round rod that moves with the lever itself; that is what you connect the switch to. So when the e brake is down, it sends a ground signal to the wire at the remote start that shuts down with a ground signal. With the ebrake lever up and engaged, the mercury switch disconnects, and then no more ground signal at the remote start, and then its ok to start up. I will try and get some pics of my switch setup , but its very easy to do, and the hole to mount the shifter switch is already in the shift lever, and i used a nut and bolt to mount the merc switch.

XtremeRS I would really like to get some pics of your setup if you can aswell as part numbers for the parts you are talking about.

Sounds like a pretty nice setup.

Chad

Yes, i second that...pics and part #'s would be awesome :-D

And what DEI system do you have? What is your normal install time for a remote start on a MT car? I know it will take me longer, but what can a pro do it in?? Thanks!!

Mack
'97 GS
-Flowmaster 40 Deltaflow w/3" tip
-Autometer Bezel pod w/Autometer Phantom Oil Pressure & Voltmeter
-F/R Strut Bars
-K&N Drop-in w/Drilled airbox
-Kenwood 716S HU + 10Disc w/Infinity Reference 6x9" (R) 5 1/4" (F)
-Door chime mod, Power Antenna mod, scrape-the-front-bumper-cover-too-much mod

Yeah, I want pics too. I'm trying to figure out how you avoid uneven surfaces. Seems that if you were on any kind of incline that mercury switch wouldn't work.

How much would the whole thing cost? Including the relays and the whole thing. Cheaper the better for me.

>Yes, i second that...pics and part #'s would be awesome :-D
>
>And what DEI system do you have? What is your normal install
>time for a remote start on a MT car? I know it will take me
>longer, but what can a pro do it in?? Thanks!!
>
>

I have a DEI Python alarm system, and i use the add on 551T Remote starter moudle. Its a bit pieced together right now, just wanted something to start the car this winter. As for how long it will take to install it, well that can vary greatly. For example, if it was a 95-99 automatic eclipse, a remote start only should take an experienced installer around an hour. For a novice, expect to spend several hours to do it. If your not a pro, speed shouldnt matter anyway, no points for second place :) Its more important to take your time, and do it right. I have been an installer for about 5 years now, and i can do one of these cars pretty quick. Going at a good rate, and a good install too, i could do it in about half an hour or so. But thats rushing, and mistakes can be made. These cars are pretty simple really to put starters on. I love cars like these really. PUtting starters on the newer cars with all kinds of anti-theft, ignition based security systems, and funky computers controlling things like door locks and stuff, gets complicated. It makes the job interesting though.

sorry its taking so long guys, just havent had a chance to pull off the center console to take pics ( its remote start season ya know :) )
I'll get the part #'s of the mercury switches. ALL DEI remote start systems will have the necessary wireing to make it work right. As for the incline thing, yes it is possible for that to effect the mercury switches, but you will have to be on a pretty steep slope for it to effect it. I tried to adjust the level of the mercury switch so as its at its best range of tilt to compensate for sloped roads. I dont think i've ever parked on a real steep slope anyway...during the winter months, and when you want to remote start it...its better than nothing anyway, and it was going to be way to difficult to rig up some pin switches to the gear shifter...Stay tuned

Ok, here is my setup. Part # for the mercury switches: 8611 Most DEI dealers should have them in stock, but if not, then they can be ordered. Price can be from 5 to 10 bukcs a piece, depending on the shop. Now there are 2 wires that are on the switch. I took one wire off of each one, and put that to ground. The switch on the gear shifter: I took the other wire and connected that to the thin black/white wire at the remote start harness. This wire needs a ground signal for the remote starter to activate. So when the shifter is in N, the little mercury bubble is making contact, and sends the ground to the remote. If the shifter is in 1st, 3rd, or 5th, the bubble in the switch tilts and the connection is gone, no ground. You will need to put another merc switch on the opposite side of the shifter lever, pointing the the reverse direction, to protect gears 2nd, 4th, and R. I never leave the shifter in that position ever, so i did not use one for those gears. Now the E-brake switch: I put one wire to ground on the merc switch, and the other wire was connected to the thin brown wire of the remote start harness. When this wire sees a ground, it will shut down, or not even start. So when the ebrake is in the down or disengaged position, the bubble in the switch is making contact, and sends a ground to the remote start, preventing it from starting. When the lever is pulled up and engaged, the bubble connection disconnects, letting it start. Here are the pics. Very simple to do and install. On the gear shift, i bent the metal mounting tab of the switch into a "U" shape, and used a small nut and bolt to mount it to the shifter, using a hole thats already there in the shifter lever. Adjust the tilt of the switch so it makes contact ONLY when its in N. Then for the ebrake, i just screwed the metal tab of the switch down to the moving arm there, the one that moves with the ebrake handle. Adjust that so there is a bubble connection when the handle is all the way down. Here are the pics:










DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for the installation outcome, and possible damage or injury to people or structures by installing a remote starter on a vehicle not intended for a remote starter. Do this at your own risk. I will always advise to not install a remote starter on a manual transmission vehicle.

DEI's disclaimer: This product is not intended to be installed on a manual transmission vehicle.

Where is the best place to buy a DEI system for the money...


TIA,
Ronnie.

Are the Avital alarms identical to the DEI ones?
I know they are both made my DEI, but i found the Avital system i want (AviStart 3300) and i don't want to take the time to find out what DEI one i need.

Also, in theroy couldn't you just hook both of these switches up to one wire?
Like, from the black/white neutral saftey wire, hook it up in series with both swtiches.....the first mercury switch would make ground in N, but when in 1,3,5 it wouldn't (reverse mount it, so the fluid flows away, and i don't leave it in any other gear, so i don't need the other switch), and then the wire from that mercury switch to the brake, and hook the brake up the same way? That way there's 1 less wire to hook up, and then even if the car was in N, if the ebrake wasn't up, then you couldn't start it? b/c 1 switch would pass ground, but the other wouldn't?

THanks!!

Mack
'97 GS
-Flowmaster 40 Deltaflow w/3" tip
-Autometer Bezel pod w/Autometer Phantom Oil Pressure & Voltmeter
-F/R Strut Bars
-K&N Drop-in w/Drilled airbox
-Kenwood 716S HU + 10Disc w/Infinity Reference 6x9" (R) 5 1/4" (F)
-Door chime mod, Power Antenna mod, scrape-the-front-bumper-cover-too-much mod

>Are the Avital alarms identical to the DEI ones?
>I know they are both made my DEI, but i found the Avital
>system i want (AviStart 3300) and i don't want to take the
>time to find out what DEI one i need.
>

Yes, ALL DEI systems are identical as far as their wiring goes.


>Also, in theroy couldn't you just hook both of these
>switches up to one wire?
>Like, from the black/white neutral saftey wire, hook it up
>in series with both swtiches.....the first mercury switch
>would make ground in N, but when in 1,3,5 it wouldn't
>(reverse mount it, so the fluid flows away, and i don't
>leave it in any other gear, so i don't need the other
>switch), and then the wire from that mercury switch to the
>brake, and hook the brake up the same way? That way there's
>1 less wire to hook up, and then even if the car was in N,
>if the ebrake wasn't up, then you couldn't start it? b/c 1
>switch would pass ground, but the other wouldn't?

Sure, you can do it that way, but I just wanted to use 2 different wires for safety. The more wires you use, the better IMO. This way, you have 2 wires that need the proper signal, instead of 1. But yeah, its all the same really.


>
>THanks!!

Also, regarding the different sensors you can rig up to these brains...
the wiring diagram only shows one place to wire in a dual stage sensor, but what happens if you want to hook up more then one? I.E. Periemeter sensor as well as a shock sensor? Do you use the same wires, just spice both sensors into them, or what? Thanks again!

Mack
'97 GS
-Flowmaster 40 Deltaflow w/3" tip
-Autometer Bezel pod w/Autometer Phantom Oil Pressure & Voltmeter
-F/R Strut Bars
-K&N Drop-in w/Drilled airbox
-Kenwood 716S HU + 10Disc w/Infinity Reference 6x9" (R) 5 1/4" (F)
-Door chime mod, Power Antenna mod, scrape-the-front-bumper-cover-too-much mod

>Also, regarding the different sensors you can rig up to
>these brains...
>the wiring diagram only shows one place to wire in a dual
>stage sensor, but what happens if you want to hook up more
>then one? I.E. Periemeter sensor as well as a shock sensor?
>Do you use the same wires, just spice both sensors into
>them, or what? Thanks again!
>


From past experience, directly tapping a shock sensor with something like a motion perimeter sensor caused problems. A lot of false triggering. IMO, you should not use the thin red wire to power BOTH sensors. Use the brain's thin red sensor power wire only on one sensor. Just hook up the second sensor's power to another constant power source, like at the brain's main power connection. All new DEI alarms are coming with the green wire of the sensor harness tapped off of the blue wire at the alarm side of the plug. This means that the blue wire of DEI's dual stage sensors carry BOTH the warn away and full alarm triggers, but you need to tap into the green with blue for a addition sensor, just like the shock's wiring was, for it to work properly.

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!

BUT

>Use the brain's thin red sensor power wire only on one sensor. Just hook up the second sensor's power to another constant power source, like at the brain's main power connection. <--- got that

>All new DEI alarms are coming with the green wire of the sensor harness tapped off of the blue wire at the alarm side of the plug. <- what?

>This means that the blue wire of DEI's dual stage sensors carry BOTH the warn away and full alarm triggers, but you need to tap into the green with blue for a addition sensor, just like the shock's wiring was, for it to work properly. <----so you are saying the new DEI sensors are just single stage? or how does it send both signals over one wire? maybe explaining the middle question will help me get this a little more...now i know why Best Buy charges $149 for an install :rolleyes
Mack
'97 GS
-Flowmaster 40 Deltaflow w/3" tip
-Autometer Bezel pod w/Autometer Phantom Oil Pressure & Voltmeter
-F/R Strut Bars
-K&N Drop-in w/Drilled airbox
-Kenwood 716S HU + 10Disc w/Infinity Reference 6x9" (R) 5 1/4" (F)
-Door chime mod, Power Antenna mod, scrape-the-front-bumper-cover-too-much mod