I have a 2 channel amp, bridged into two 10s. The amp makes 360 watts bridged. Takes a good bit of juice. It's wired directly to my battery, with the remote wired into a switched source (my cig lighter power).

For some reason, almost every morning my battery is very close to dead. Barely turns over, or doesn't turn over at all. Everything seems to be wired right, so why is my battery draining?

As a side not, the only things hooked up to my battery are:

1. my amp, of course
2. my fuel pumps, wired with a relay off the stock power supply.

the battery may be losing its charge and or life.. take the battery some place to get it tested.. i bet its on its last leg.. i had that happen to my old stock one..

It's new. Replaced because the dealership blew my old one up, grounded it out on my strut bar.

Try again.

My guess is the battery even though you say its fairly new. Try disconnecting the power feed to the amp before you crash for the night. Then see if your car acts any different in the morning. You could also grab a voltmeter and see if the amp is pulling any power when the car is off.

How new is new? I've had two stock batteries now, and they both died within 2 years. Then I got a Exide Nascar Series battery from Kragen, and that died after about 6 months because my car was in the shop too long. Now I'm on my fourth battery since 97. Our stock batteries really suck, so that is probably it. Make sure your amp is off when the car is off (and if you want to wire it perfect), then connect the remote turn on to the remote out lead of your head unit.

The way you've got it, it SHOULD be fine (the only way to guarantee it is to do what sd_eclipse said). My guess is that it might not be the stereo. Do you have anything else you've wired up. For example, I found a stupid mistake I'd made. I connected my gauges to the fuse box. I forgot to check to make sure the fuse location I used was switched with the key. Since the gauges use very little power, my battery would be fine in everyday use, but when I let it sit for 3 or 4, it would be dead. You have a more serious leak than I do, but just another possibility for you.

Matt

1. i moved my FP gauge and my Jumptronix to a switched source, because they were wired to the battery. This didn't aleviate the problem.

I am 100% certain my remote turns off the amp. My cell charger turns off with the car, and it is on the same circuit.

The battery was replaced about 4 months ago, along with the alternator. It's dead in the morning, but starts fine when i leave work in the evenings.

Is it possible for the amp to leak voltage to ground, even with the remote off?

I'm going to pull the amp fuse tonight and let you guys know how it works out.

Just out of curiousity what is the CCA rating for the battery?

high 600's i think.. like 660 or 690 or something. Higher than stock.

If you have a volt meter, do this. With the car running and at idle and no electrical load, it should read at least 13.4 volts. Now turn on every thing electrical you can, and look at the voltage. It should still be around 13.4 volts or higher. Rev the motor and it should def jump up a little, usually around 14 volts. Turn off the car, and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Check the voltage. A good battery should read 12.4 volts or a little higer. Take another reading about an hour or so later and see what the voltage is. If it dropped under 12.4 volts, either your batt is bad, or something is draining it. If you feel something is draing it, pull off the neg batt terminal and let it set over night, then check the voltage. You will def know then if it's something in the car. If you have a amp draw meter, use that and there should be either no or no more than 250 milliamps of draw with everything off. If its drawing, start pulling fuses and see when the draw goes away, and find out what circuit fuse you pulled to locate the prob. Theses are the steps I usually use at my shop when people come in with these kind of symptoms....

try a 1/2 farad capacitor possibly, you might just be draining too much voltage from the stereo.

Hey Dino, you say that you have the remote turn on for the amp attached to the cig lighter? There are 2 wires connected to that, power and ground. I thought, could be wrong, that the power was a constant power, not and acc power. What kind of deck do you have? Is it aftermarket? If so it will have a blue remote turn on wire for an amp. Connect it to that. If it is the stock deck you might try to find another wire that is an acc wire. That is what I would try.

yes, it runs to the power wire for the cigarette lighter, and yes mine(i can't say all, some of them aren't) is switched. I know for a fact the amp turns off, and my cell charger turns off too.

I pulled the fuse after charging the battery. I don't know if it's the fact that the amp is disconnected or that it just needed to good charge, but it has been okay.

Here's the kicker: The amp is turning off with the car. Why is my battery still being drained?

It could just be something wierd with the amp. Just because the remote turn on wire is not giving the amp a signal does not mean that the amp could not be pulling power. It is still connected directly to the battery with a constant power wire. Maybe there is something faulty in the amp. I would try another amp just to see if it causes the same thing.

This is in line with my suspicions as well.. i just wanted someone to say it, i guess.

Thanx! Stupid amp..

Yeah piece of sh!t!!!!! Kick it!!!!

It could have something to do with the fact that it has been previously repaired - the old owner had loaned it to one of our mutual friends to drive a single 10" in his living room to act as a sub for his home theater system. it was connected to a power supply, and apparently this idiot managed to fry the outputs by brushing the 12+ across one of the output terminals.

Perhaps they just repaired it incorrectly, and even though the light turns off, the amp is still sending power to ground.