Can someone please help me out with this? Where do you mount it? And can someone illustrate in paint how it sets up. Im going to mount it around intake manifold but I am not sure what to do about the wiring of tubing and the steel return line yada yada. Please Help me 2gnt your my only hope...

Edit: Would it be easier and just as well to put the fuel pressure regulator in back of the car by the tank in replacement of the stock one? Please give me some more details.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Here ya go:
http://imageshack.us>


Then when yuo take out the factory FPR, cut the hard supply line, and run a hose from that hard line to the supply nipple on the piece under the back seat.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

since its adjustable i would keep it in the engine bay so you don't have to crawl under the car to adjust fp since so many people have said the craptech fluctuates so much, then you also don't have to run a vac line under your car
here's a pic of where my sfmu is, just to the left of the intake manifold. i think the hahn fpr can be mounted in the same spot

I contributed to the Wiki!
EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter
96 Eclipse RS -awaiting registration and inspection
95 Eclipse GS - parts car
Mods/Profile - http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=cs82685

Originally posted by cs82685
since its adjustable i would keep it in the engine bay so you don't have to crawl under the car to adjust fp since so many people have said the craptech fluctuates so much, then you also don't have to run a vac line under your car here's a pic of where my sfmu is, just to the left of the intake manifold. i think the hahn fpr can be mounted in the same spot

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

at least now its all painted to match so its not as ugly

I contributed to the Wiki!
EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter
96 Eclipse RS -awaiting registration and inspection
95 Eclipse GS - parts car
Mods/Profile - http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=cs82685

Ya know whats great I just realised that I didnt buy enough fuel line for my sfmu, and I am tapped. SHIT.

Here is mine mounted where the windshield washer was. I could get the sfmu to fit even though it says it can in the HRC instructions so there it is mounted. I've since relocated the battery to the trunk so there is even more room, but it fits with the stock battery there. I do miss being able to squirt tail gaters and washing dead bugs off the windshield

EDIT: EclipseTenzoR, Holy shit your car looks HOT!!! Add an fmic on there and you are set!

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

Can someone explain in lamens terms how exactly the fpr is suppose to work accroding to the diagram above. I think the reason why I am having such a hard time understanding this install is because I don't quite understand the in depth function of the fpr. I know its suppose to raise pressure but how? It's partially vacume controlled rite? And a line comes off the fuel line goes from the fuel rail(fuel rail side near timing belt) and then a return line is going from the fpr back to the tank. What is this return line doing? How does the computer now to raise fuel pressure? I'm more confused than I thought or I am missing one critical piece of information

Jsupertran- thanks for the comment too.. My goal is to have a clean looking 2g just like yours.. I'll have a hahn fmic in a few months.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Also.. Am I suppose to remove my stock fpr or is the car still dependent on that. I did some more reading still not understanding everything but some places I have read said that yes you do need the stock regulator and some say no you dont. The only certanity I have come across was if you had the Vortech SFMU you could totally eliminate the stock regulator. So now my question is do I illimnate it anyway with the craptech? And where is the stock regulator located.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Ok, I think I am understanding this a little better after reading some. Does the Fuel Pressure Regulator create a vacume within the fuel rail which makes the pump work harder? Like the FPR has an IN line and the line that goes to that you have to tap off of the fuel rail (passenger side near timing belt, has a little cap on it that looks like a tire valve cap) And then the OUT line is sent back to the gas tank. But my question now is. Where is the stock FPR located? and how do I eliminate that with all those extra lines.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Sounds like you have a LOT more reading and searching to do. All these questions have been answered because I searched and read up on all of them before I ever installed my kit a couple years ago. I would read and read and read, making sure you completely understand whats going on and what you need before you even take a single nut or bolt off the car. Good luck!

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Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

dj I have been reading my ass off all morning. The thing that confuses me though is hahn's directions and certain posts I am coming across. I need visual help. I understand how the FPR is suppose to go in. But I am now confused as of how I plug the stock FPR. I was told that its plugged inline with the hardline that goes to the fuel rail. So I am still confused because visually I do not know the order of how its run and how the fuel filter and distribution block etc is tied in. And yes I don't plan to touch a bolt on that fuel system until I understand it but frankly hahns directions are pissing me off and I can't understand a thing

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

So basically I'm rigging my own stuff up. This is the picture I have in my head.. Hard fuel line that is in the back of the car is going all the way to the fuel rail.. Anything behind that hard line is just getting cut off. I am going to put my own little universal fuel filter inline between the hardline and then to the fuel pump. And then the use the return line that is also rite on top where the back seat is. If I take a picture can you illustrate like circle or tell me which one it is that is the Fuel Out and Return Line?

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Man GSGoinFast's write up for this was really clear. He had everything you need in there. It explained which fitting on the FPR was input, return, and where the vacuum signal went. He showed you where it goes, and how to mount it. What do you still need to know?

If you are running the stock FPR plus the FMU... the outlet from the FPR goes to the inlet on the FMU (stock, this line will be going straight to the tank return port) and the outlet from the FMU goes to the return hose port on the tank.

Here are two really good write-ups if you are using the SFMU. This one is for an underhood install... http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=58 and this fleshes it out some more http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=59

This should be alllll you need to finish your fuel system. To figure out which line is the return hose, look on the top of the pump. See the big line with the nuts on it? That is the send line. The other one is the return line (according to those two articles). It is easy to follow them to underneath the car. It sounds like that is what you were having problems with. The article also has pictures of the stock FPR and fuel filter, so you could climb under the car and identify them using that picture.

1995 Eagle Talon ESi

Here's a diagram of what i think you wanted to see, if you want the file just let me know your email address and i'll send it to you



Edit: the part about taking everything off between the tank and the FPR i was referring to the hard line

I contributed to the Wiki!
EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter
96 Eclipse RS -awaiting registration and inspection
95 Eclipse GS - parts car
Mods/Profile - http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=cs82685

i think your paint puts my paint to shame

I contributed to the Wiki!
EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter
96 Eclipse RS -awaiting registration and inspection
95 Eclipse GS - parts car
Mods/Profile - http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=cs82685

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

So as corey illustratd I dont even have to cut that line do I? Just find a screw to shut the top of that tee and the fuel will still get through? And as for the return line, I can just hook that up to the other steel line that I got with my kit, then run a hose from that return line to my FMU? Also this valve is on the passenger side of the fuel rail? I was looking at it and I saw a cap on it that looked like one off of a tire. So I am just unscrewing that and fitting my line with the connector to screw on that side of the fuel rail and then onto my FMU? If this is all correct let me know. Also, corey what size bolt do I use to plug that tee

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

yea dude...your car looks HOTT!!!!
lol..didnt help but had to get that comment in there

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Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

DJ, What is wrong with what I said. What information am I missing rite now, help is appreciated so someone please inform me what it is I am forgetting. The FPR taps into the side schrader port of the fuel rail. I am completely eliminating the FPR from the back of the vehicle by A. Cutting the hard line with it on it along with the "T" or B. unscrewing the stock FPR and closing that port with a bolt. What am I missing?

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

go with B theres no reason to go cutting the supply line and i can't really remember what size the bolt was i ran to the parts store after i got the fpr off, i know i got the wrong one the first time and fuel went everywhere. I'm not sure but i want to say that it is 12mm w/a 1.25 pitch. Definetly having a car you can drive during the install is your best bet just in case you gotta run out to get something Also the steel line that comes with the kit is for the return. And the test port on the fuel rail also has a schrader valve in it that has to be removed you can get the tool to do it for 2 or 3 bucks at probably any parts store

I contributed to the Wiki!
EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter
96 Eclipse RS -awaiting registration and inspection
95 Eclipse GS - parts car
Mods/Profile - http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=cs82685

Awesome... Sorry it took forever for me to understand this but to those who did help me especially Corey and Mike, thanks for the drawings. Well you all shall find out soon enough whether the turbo spools and the engine stays in tact.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Ummm DONT CUT THE HARDLINE. Who ever said that should be kicked in the nuts. Hardline+cutting+fuel area=FIRE!!!

In my case I just shoved a fuel hose further in there and double clamped it.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Why would you cut the hard line? I don't recall the Hahn direction ever stating this in the install manual. I just double clamped the Fuel pump output line to the hard line. I might switch to AN fitting later on down the line.

To the original poster of this thread... It took me 2 days to figure out the instruction by drawing out the diagram. Sit down and think things through, and search before trying to cut shit. Oh and you do remove the whole OEM fuel regulator Assembly (this includes the T-fitting)

-K-

I havent gotten under there to look yet, but are there fittings that on the hardline that screw into the T? I would like to just remove the T and then slide some hose in there to bridge the gap. Is this possible to unscrew the T

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Cut the T off, and then use hose on the hardline.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

But then what if I ever want to put the factory regulator back on? Do I have to build a new T for it?

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

I contributed to the Wiki!
EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter
96 Eclipse RS -awaiting registration and inspection
95 Eclipse GS - parts car
Mods/Profile - http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=cs82685

ok, The Schrader valver on the test port comes out. Why? because it works like the one in your tire. As long as there is pressure behind it it seals to keep the fuel in. Just like your tires valves seal to keep the air in.

The Regulator. Well this is kinda hard to explain just by typing it, especially for me. This is going to be some real simple comparisons and by far no where near technical.

When u water the lawn the water just shoots out of the hose right? What happens when you put your thumb over the hose opening? It shoots out with more pressure. Why? You are trying to flow that same ammont that was comming out before but through a smaller opening. This is what the pressure regulator does. Its causes a controlled restriction for increase fuel pressures.

How does it know how much to "restrict"? Your engine likes to breath. It takes in several hundred cubic feet when it really gets going (just...imagine pls). Its basically a crude air pump. This creates vacume in the intake manifold and generaly in the intake system. The hose connected to your FPR comes from this. So more vacume = higher load or your engine is working harder. Be it from you flooring it or from a hill or AC etc. The FPR detects this and gives more fuel.How does it do this? simple It "pulls" and ...say a lever that opens and closes a "gate" or door. What moves it back? a spring. This tension or force on the spring is what you can adjust.

Now for a boosted engine there is an aditional source the Fpr can detect. Thats positive pressure. Think of this as a baloon. When positive pressure gets pumped into it It likes to expand, this "pushes" inside the fpr. Increasing the pressure yet again.

How much it increases depends on the "baloon" thats why the SFMU comes with disks. You get the "ratio" or decide on how "stretchy" or soft you want your baloon to be. Too soft and it will increase the pressure too much. Too hard and it wont be enough.


Now for that eclipse98 dude. Why do you have the fuel filter in the return line?

for one, I would want less restrictions on that line.
Two, I would want my fuel filteres BEFORE It goes to my injectors and subsequently to the engine.

Or did I mis understand your drawings?


If it helps here are some links to simple explanations of a fuel system.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=fuel-injection.htm&url=http://www.icarumba.com/icarumba/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/icar_resourcecenter_encyclopedia_fuel1.asp#top

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-injection.htm

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!