So the other day I traded my ff7 wheels to a kid for a turbo kit. here is a list of the parts.

GodSpeed turbo 3inch intake, 2inch outlet, .50 ar trim, 66.72/84.25 compressor wheel, turbine wheel 43.46/59.20.

GodSpeed front mount intercooler.

GodSpeed blow off valve.

Godspeed adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

two slim fans.

boost controller.

apex turbo timer.

glow shift boost gauge.

a bunch of intercooler piping.

a bunch of oil lines and vacuum lines.

thats everything that I got, it is all brand new still in the packages.

Things to get...

turbo manifold.

38mm wastegate.

oil filter sandwich adapter.

missing link.

warlboro 255 fuel pump.

and bigger injectors but not sure how big yet.

Let me know what you guys think of my trade and if you notice anything else that I forgot and still need to get.

1995 eclipse rs-t. Might as well be a ford because I have to fix or repair daily...

Get a FCD instead of a missing link. My first and only exprience with a missing link = broken ring lands. Some members here have had success, but most of them will say something very similar to what I just said.

Also, some sort of fuel management or piggyback system. I'm running a vortech S-FMU. Great quality, works awesome. You will need something to get a good fuel curve for the added boost. There's plenty of options out there, you just have to find one that's good for your build and budget.

Oh yeah, if you have a 36" long oil feed line, you will need to get a longer one to use with the adapter if you choose to go that route. I had to order a 60" from summit. Just some foo for thought. Good luck.

I CONTRIBUTED TO THE WIKI!
ah... turbo. I love the turbo, the boost, the speed, the sound.
and its all better when you do it yourself. cheaper too.

If you get a 12:1 FMU or an SFMU you can run the stock injectors for a while at low boost (6-7psi) until you sort out a better fuel management setup that gives you the ability to tune. Since you don't seem to be rebuilding for boost you could run that for quite some time.

Like others have said, don't bother with the missing link. The filters clog too easily and cause problems. Get a FCD.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

=Dan=



98rs eclipse- Mods: BC2, C/F hood, custom turbo system consisting of a PTE SC50, turbosmart ultra gate (10psi), star FMIC and pipes, SFMU, HKS SSQV, 3" V-BAND downpipe from ATP, Zeitronix Wideband LCD displaying boost, egt and 02. *** SOLD and will be missed***

2006 gsxr 750- jardine gp1 exhaust, -1,+2 stealth sprockets, DID 525 chain, JD products pro TRE. 0-60 in a sneeze. ran a 10.8 avg 1/4 mile my first time to the track on street tires, stock swingarm and unstrapped.

Thanks for the responses. Today I bought... 38mm wastegate, fcd, log style turbo manifold, oil filter sandwich adapter, and another oil feed line! Im just planning on running low boost 6-8psi for a while until I actually get enough money together to do it right, I never had a turbo car before and im just excited to feel this thing. haha

1995 eclipse rs-t. Might as well be a ford because I have to fix or repair daily...

i thought you didnt need a missing link or fcd with a 95.

99 Eclipse, n1 catback exhaust, ebay header, ractive cai, udp, crower stage 2 cams, 4g63 crower valve springs, apexi safc,egr block off

Why wouldent you? Either way wouldent you have to manipulate the map sensor to compensate for boost, regardless of the year?

1995 eclipse rs-t. Might as well be a ford because I have to fix or repair daily...

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=8&topic_id=79893&mode=full

99 Eclipse, n1 catback exhaust, ebay header, ractive cai, udp, crower stage 2 cams, 4g63 crower valve springs, apexi safc,egr block off

hmm... well I got the fdm for 25 bucks so if it causes problems then whatever. Thanks for the link man.

1995 eclipse rs-t. Might as well be a ford because I have to fix or repair daily...

What will you be using as far as gauges? At the bare minimum I'd say a boost gauge and a good quality wideband to keep an eye on your a/f ratio to keep you boosting for quite a while.

I CONTRIBUTED TO THE WIKI!
ah... turbo. I love the turbo, the boost, the speed, the sound.
and its all better when you do it yourself. cheaper too.

I have a boost gauge and a a/f gauge. The a/f is not wideband though. My turbo timer apparently shows an a/f reading though.

1995 eclipse rs-t. Might as well be a ford because I have to fix or repair daily...

The timer will show you A/F ratio but without a wideband O2 sensor, you will only get narrowband readings. You will need something alot more accurate than that. The best thing about a wideband is that you can upload your fuel curve to a laptop and see where you get lean spots and just how lean those spots are.

I CONTRIBUTED TO THE WIKI!
ah... turbo. I love the turbo, the boost, the speed, the sound.
and its all better when you do it yourself. cheaper too.

yea that would be the right way to do it but im planning on just boosting low for awhile. I go to school full time right now so the money with a better setup is a little scarce haha

1995 eclipse rs-t. Might as well be a ford because I have to fix or repair daily...

I had that basic setup the first time I boosted a GS. I only had a narrow band. even @ 8psi and under, WOT still showed one or two of the orange led lighting up, the car pulled crazy hard. It wasn't until much later that I learned I was @ 14.0 AFR when I borrowed a wideband, and my egt's were reaching 1500. Luckily I never did any noticeable damage since those pulls were on winter nights (super cold air suppressing knock quite possibly)

At any rate, my point is try and borrow someones wideband for a couple pulls, play with the discs in your FMU (if it comes with multiple)or SFMU and get the AFR's low, and you'll be boostin fine for quite awhile.

I've seen more than a few guys in my region crack pistons during warm months hammering on this set up with no adjustments to fuel.

one last note, I run a narrow band meter beside my wideband and 11.0 AFR's will have the narrow band meter only lighting up the last 2 or 3 green LED's, in case you decide to wing it with the narrow band.