#1001, "ARGH did u need to cut the upper i/c pipe for the star stage 2?"
Did anybody need to shorten the upper i/c pipe (from the intercooler) that comes with the star stage 2?? I can't seem to get the pipes from the turbo to the FMIC to fit!! argh argh
I notice that if I cut like 4 cm off the end of that straight i/c pipe it just might fit.
What can I use to easily cut this chromed i/c pipe? Heeeelp..
#1002, "RE: ARGH did u need to cut the upper i/c pipe for the star stage 2?" In response to Reply # 0
I didn't have to cut any of my pipes ... I did however have to hack off about 3/4 of the splash guard on the drivers side to route the piping. If you really feel you have to cut the pipe, use a hacksaw, bandsaw, or brick cutter. Remember, though, if you cut the end off that pipe, you're going to lose the little rib in it that keeps it from sliding past the hose clamp, and could result in a leak that you can't fix.
-DarkOne I'm so bad, i should be in detention.
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#1004, "RE: ARGH did u need to cut the upper i/c pipe for the star stage 2?" In response to Reply # 0
OK Maybe I'm doing this wrong or something...
Does the tube leading to the throttle body go on the bottom or top of the i/c ? I just matched the pipe diameter sizes and put it to the bottom. That's right, right?
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#1007, "RE: top, i think." In response to Reply # 5
I'll go look at my setup here after a while and let you know how i did it.
-DarkOne I'm so bad, i should be in detention.
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#1010, "RE: Top one goes to the turbo" In response to Reply # 8
LAST EDITED ON 17-Jan-01 AT 01:40 PM (PST)
So loosen the end where it's clamped to the intercooler, back it out a little, reclamp it, and make it fit. Also try moving the pipe further out in the rubber 90 degree bend until you have clearance. it'll eventually fit. Intercooler installs are a bitch. I had to rip out about two tonnes of plastic from my front end to route my piping and to make room for the intercooler.
remember: "If it jams, force it. if it breaks, well, it needed to be replaced anyway"
-DarkOne I'm so bad, i should be in detention.
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#1011, "RE: Top one goes to the turbo" In response to Reply # 9
This may help:
If you do end up needing to shorten the tube, instead of just trimming off the excess, take a section out of the pipe between the beaded end and the first bend. You can then weld the remaining parts back together. This will enable you to retain the bead on the end so the hose will not slip off under boost. Don't attempt to run without this bead, as the hose will continue to pop off at the most inconvenient times (like when you are waxing a Camaro).
You can also just cut off the excess and restore the tube bead by welding a bead all the way around the tube at its end. Now, the weld bead will retain the hose connection.
My preference is the first way.
Bill Hahn Jr. 98 RS Turbo: 10.87 @ 136 MPH HRC Stage V with N20 Nation's Fastest Street FWD 2G DSM www.turbosystem.com
#1012, "RE: Top one goes to the turbo" In response to Reply # 10
they have a tool called a "bead-roller". there are large table-top models and then there are smaller hand-held jammies. if you had one of those you could put a bead in the piping yourself. i'm not sure where to get one, but try asking around some local sheet-metal shops where they buy their stuff.
#1013, "RE: Top one goes to the turbo" In response to Reply # 11
Lets see... for the confusion over which pipe goes where: the smaller diameter pipe(the one on top in wyatt's picture) is the one that goes to the turbo, the larger diameter goes to the throttle body.
as to whether or not you have to cut the pipes: most people with newer kits shouldn't have to cut their pipes i have heard. I have like one of the first kits, so my pipes fit like ass. i cut both the pipes and got some silicone connectors and it fit a lot better.
as to losing that bead: if you gotta cut your pipe, just take a pair of plyers, bend the edges out on the edge of the pipe to make your own bead. It ain't quite as nice as a factory bead, but it works fine. I did that on mine as well as my buddies GST that i built all the intercooler pipes for his starion intercooler for. Just make sure you don't have really sharp edges or it will cut the silicone connectors.
hope this helped, jason 95 GS turbo Star Stage II Unorthodox racing Stage 1+ clutch Hoping to be first person with standalone ECU
#1014, "RE: Top one goes to the turbo" In response to Reply # 9
>So loosen the end where it's >clamped to the intercooler, back >it out a little, reclamp >it, and make it fit. > Also try moving the >pipe further out in the >rubber 90 degree bend until >you have clearance. it'll
It's the damn rubber 90 degree bend that's not long enough! If I push it closer, the end where it's attached to the intercooler needs to go further in (which it cannot, thus why I need to cut).
Unless I'm able to find a longer 90 degree rubber connector, I don't know what to do.
