ok hear I go
I bought the hahn portfueler system and installed it. When I went to start the car I primed it first and I could hear the walbro wine. After priming the car I started it up and it started just fine. Every thing was running fine and I had fuel preasure. I had to wait tell my zeitronix would load(30secs) when it loaded my car was right at 14.7 just like it always is. Then after anthoer 15secs my car started to lean and the fuel pump was sounding like shit and it studered for a little then died. The car started right back up and studdered and died agin with no fuel presue. So I put the stock one in and tryed to start the car and it did then studdered and died..now the fuel pump will not prim. I lost fuel preasuer after 45secs dose anyone know what happened...Also I am getting volts on the pigtail on the fuel pump I just forgot what it was.
plz help!!!

Come on guys I want to get this running so I can make the shoot out. do you think I should get a new walbro....I also have not rewired the fuel pump..I am going to rewire the old walbro in a few hours..come on guys I dont know what ells to try.

Did you try checking the relay?

I dont think its a problem with the Walbro pump if you installed the OE pump back in and it did the same thing.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Did you check the fuse and relay? What voltage do you see at the pigtail while cranking?

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

If you think it is the stock relay, you could bypass the relay by jumpering across its connector (make a short length of wire with male spade terminals at each end and connect the two pins that the relay should be connecting). That will force the pump on anytime the ignition is in the ON position. If it really came down to "do or die" and you couldn't figure it out, you could pull 12V and ground from another high amperage switched source (stereo amp or run your own wiring). You would have to unhook the pump power whenever you park the car (you don't need the pump circulating all night). I will do things like this if I want to play with the fuel pressure without running the engine (I force the pump on before starting the car).

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

yea guys I have tried this and nothing any thing ells I can try. I am about to give up on this car. I am in my last term in school and I have a Job in CA so I have to move. I also just bought a 09 cobalt SS(it is a lot fun) but I want to take my eclipse to CA as well. If not then I am about to part out a nice 420a

You tried the things I recommended on August 14? You ran dedicated power wires to the fuel pump and nothing happened?

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

yes I got it to work with the wire to it but I dont want to run a switch everytime I get in and out of the car. dose that mean it is the relay?

Hey I would also like to get rid of a few parts but I need more post is there a way I can with out 25 post?

What year car and is the transmission auto or manual? With that, I could make more specific recommendations. We require 25 posts because the sales area is a privilege for members with something vested in the community. If you just want to unload some parts, E-bay or Craigslist are good choices.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

it is a 95 eclipse and it is a stick. I am starting to sell things on ebay keep an eye on beast10007 on ebay I am always selling things for are cars I have tonzs of parts laying around that are up or i am about to.

Find the relays in the engine bay, on the firewall, driver's side. The one closest to the engine is probably the fuel pump relay. It should have four wires. Two will be black with white stripes. One will be black with blue stripe. One will be white with red stripe. Turn the key to ON and leave it there. Unplug the relay. Use a piece of bare wire to connect the pins on the plug. Connect the black wire with blue stripe to the one directly opposite (black with white stripe). If the pump turns on, then the wiring from your battery to relay to pump is OK. You can then blame the relay, ECU, or wiring to ECU. Use a voltmeter to check continuity between the pin with white wire and red stripe and the negative terminal on the battery. If you get continuity (almost zero ohms), then the ECU and wiring to ECU is OK (replace the relay). If you do not get continuity, then it must the ECU or wiring to the ECU. Shove a sewing straight pin through the white wire with red stripe AT THE ECU connector. Check for continuity between the straight pin and the negative terminal of the battery. If you get continuity, you have a problem from here to the relay plug (broken wiring or corroded relay plug). If you do not get continuity, you have a problem with the ECU connector or ECU (the connector might be corroded or the ECU is toast).

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

yea sorry but I have started parting it out for good. I have some good stuff on ebay go take a look