Yeah, smoking a cigarette and cruising around one night and thinking. There is a yellow BOSS mustang (like a 98) supercharged, v8, the works, best friend works for the driver's dad Anyways...

Is my 4G63 gonna take me to victory against this car? Will I ever smoke a Supra, Viper, or Corvette at the tracks? Will my car also be streetable? I'm not talking 650whp at 25psi on race gas with a 150shot of n2o, I'm talking daily driven, can I beat these guys?

Traction issues aside, (high HP = LSD anyways or GSX or something) Can I run with these guys? Am I gonna waste the next couple years of my life pouring every other paycheck into a car that will never break into the 11s or be fast enough for whats on the streets? I want your opinions, guys. I know you've all felt like you shoulda put more money into a car, had a better car, or SOMETHING BETTER when a sweet-ass ride blows by you and leaves you jealous.

-Nick

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

11's streetable is about $8,000 away for a GS-T. I would say closer to 6 if it were AWD.

You can get into the 11's with a 16G, or even a 14B (with all supporting mods and of course very well tuned) although it is a lot easier to do so in a 1g, because of the weight difference.

You have a definite limit being FWD. End of story.

Well, do we got a HP limit? Do we have a rev limit? Come on guys real answers and stuff. The other post with the 694whp GSX was sweet.

FWD and me... I'm good with FWD. I might not be the fastest off the line, but I sure as hell can shift. If my GS-T is worth taking it to the max, then an LSD, drive axles, stage 4 or better clutch, and a few weight reductions will be included.

I'm not sure what I want, but I do want a decent reputation around my area. If AWD is the only answer, then the GS-T will be the "relaxed" driving car, and I'll see what I can do about a Mitsubishi GTO VR-4 (yes, GTO as in the JDM name)

It's too late to ditch the GS-T, for sentimental reasons. 6-speeds are nice, and a 3000GT has always caught my eye.

FWD vs RWD comparison. Which is better? And why? A RWD is no AWD, but is it better than FWD by a lot? I know an AWD would smoke a RWD in a race, but a rear vs front, who's gonna win it?

Thanks guys

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

Reputation? GTO? Stage 4 clutch?


This thread has taken a sharp turn for the worse. Where is that Fast and Furious macro when I need it...

2009 Corolla S - waiting until 2012 for my next toy!
*SOLD* 1992 3000GT VR4 - pearl white and 45,6xx miles!
*SOLD* 2007 Subaru Legacy GT sedan
*SOLD* 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - BPU
*SOLD* 97 Eclipse GS Star Stage 2

I remember a long time ago I saw a dyno chart of a 4g63 that made over 1000WHP. The car was white, anybody know what I'm talking about?

Wow. You might have been the most help yet.

You'll have to excuse my wicked Japanese tendancies to say JDM names and the like. Been to Japan and saw GTOs, Supras, and R34 GT-R V Spec IIs, lol.

In the other forum about the 694whp GSX, is that the total awesomeness about AWD? Is he launching from the higher RPMs? Shit, I don't know much about AWD besides people telling me its the greatest thing. I did drive an STi, which was pretty sweet, and was passenger in a 99 GSX for about 2 secs.

You think I should max out my car as is (FWD and all) then see what I should do in the future? No matter what, modifiyng my car will get me faster 1/4mi times, just not as good as I'd hope for, right?

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

There are 11 second FWD DSM's and even ones that run 10's but there are a lot more 10 and 11 sec AWD DSM's because traction becomes an issue's and an aftermarket LSD and sometimes slicks are needed for the FWD cars. FWD's break a lot less then AWD though so it's really up to u. You already got the FWD so I see no need to sell it unless you find a good deal on a AWD or you want a better car for the winter. If you want a fast car from a stop get AWD and if you want a highway beast get FWD. It really doesn't matter.
-Dave

2009 Corolla S - waiting until 2012 for my next toy!
*SOLD* 1992 3000GT VR4 - pearl white and 45,6xx miles!
*SOLD* 2007 Subaru Legacy GT sedan
*SOLD* 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - BPU
*SOLD* 97 Eclipse GS Star Stage 2

My personal opinion on the matter is I would never, ever touch an FWD platform for speed. Unless I was doing a full track prepped car designed solely for the purpose of getting an FWD as fast as I possibly can with no limit on budget, time or effort, FWD is the 100% last platform I would want to use for flat out speed. That's just me though. (I also understand why some people do it, but being realistic about it is probably the most important element to the project, before time, money and work are even considered).

Like mentioned before, if you want to see why AWD just murders FWD, either go to the Shootout (since you have very limited interaction with AWD in-car, this is the best I can offer), or at least watch footage of the Shootout. There are 50 times as many AWDs in the 11's and below than there are FWDs, and I'd wager, most of them are there for much cheaper. That being said as well, it makes an FWD running those times that much more impressive. Seeing an 11 second FWD really makes me appreciate the work in the car.

NHH - If you really only want a fun streetable car, FWD is fine, but it really doesn't sound like that is what your intention is. To just kind of lay it out there, here it is: You are living in a fantasy world. Your view on this subject is very simplistic. When you mention how "sweet" that 694 hp GSX is, that is a car with tens of thousands of dollars in mods in it most likely, and also a 6 year project. That is not just "feasible" for every enthusiast. We'd love to help you out in making a decision, but trying to change your point of view about the whole scenario will be tough. It really sounds like you're grounded in F&F still, but you need to switch your mind set over to NABR to really make any meaningful decisions.

Moving on: Do we have a hp limit? Rev limit? Etc. Etc 'real answers'.

HP limit - (ask John Shepherd) He is running 8.5xs in his 1g AWD. Many people on a stock 6 bolt block are in the ~400s at the wheels, while many people on forged internals are pushing close to and over 4 digits at the crank.

Rev Limit - stock springs and retainers ~7500-8000 if you are daring/reckless. With lightened valvetrain components, 10k+.

Why is RWD better? - As Slowmitsu said, weight transfer. You have the weight of the car over the drive wheels, therefore, the real wheels powered cars naturally have better traction than comparable FWD counterparts.

And the thing about all of these questions is that the "real answers" are case by case for the most part. Universal truths are hard to come by in this community, and as far as the normal "Tunerz" crowd, most of it not only doesn't fly, but most of it is seen as a shit storm that is ruining the hobby for a majority of auto enthsiasts. I hate to come across as an asshole, but if you really do want to spend all of that time, money and effort on this car, you NEED to know what you are getting into.

That and the 1g/4g63 section has taken a turn for the 'new' lately, and the demeanor of the subsection needs some freshening up.

It's running again shitheads.

http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=791

HybriDSM@gmail.com ; HybriDSM@hotmail.com

Think for yourself. Question authority does not always mean disagree with authority.

If life were perfect, I'd be Calvin and you'd be Hobbes.

dsm's suck go buy a camaro

Lane Adams

1998 GST Spyder
1995 GSX
1995 TSI AWD

don't foget mr. bill hahn is in the 10s with a fwd non 4g63 motor. It's really up to you on how you want to beat these supra's vett's etc.. at the track or on the highway.

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

Originally posted by 97eclipse97

Originally posted by 96rs-t don't foget mr. bill hahn is in the 10s with a fwd non 4g63 motor. It's really up to you on how you want to beat these supra's vett's etc.. at the track or on the highway.

Not to again get off topic, but yes Mr. Hahn may be in the 10's...but how many other 420's even broke 11's?? And are they at all streetable? (as in can they truly be a daily driver?)

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

Good, finally some sweet answers that make sense and don't insult me too much.

FWD - Well, yea I started cars cuz of FnF but I'm so much beyond that. My home mechanic skills has landed me a 48hr week full-time job where I just work on mini-vans and make money, lol. To my point, I want to take FWD to it's limits. I have a notebook, FILLED with parts lists, "Staged Upgrades" rotating from engine, trans, interior, sound, exterior, and what not. Also included is prices for engine boring, honing, port and polish work, and estimated money amounts at certain stages.

I have an idea of what I'm doing. I ask ALOT of questions, cuz when it gets down to the money, the work, and the down time of my ride, I want to do it once, and do it right the FIRST and ONLY time!

If and is (question and statement) 11 sec in FWD streetable? I don't want to have to have a racing only clutch or need racing slicks just to drive the 2miles to work everyday. Yeah, granted I can change parts out and what not, I think it's better to know your car goes 11sec in the 1/4 whenever you want it. Esp. when that Viper or that kid thats dating your ex-g/f pulls up next to you in his Mustang V8 supercharged (bought by his parents of course) and you wanna just fucking smoke HIM! (i have anger issues)

Anyways...

I know what I'm into. Since FnF I have been digging a hole (hopefully to the homeland to steal a GT-R V-spec ii) but I know about the costs of mods, repairs, and everything. I'm next to stock, cuz my BOV runs rich, and I'm doing the GM MAF/MAF-T thing soon. I don't even have exhaust. I have more money put into my dashboard and a-pillar than anywhere else on my car, lol. I'm kinda reserved though, relying on my driving skills and stock turbo (i can smoke any ricer, even 6cyls cuz they dont know what they're doing) rather than throwing fart-cans, shiny engine parts, short-shifters and the like and NOT knowing how to use them. I can out-shift most people around me, and I have the stock yard-stick that I'm shifting with.

The job, the money, the time, the tools, are all coming together now. I just wanna do this and do it all right. I want all your guys' help, and minimize the insults and harsh lessons.

And to close it off, I am gonna go all-out to the limits of being a streetable GS-T. If the end is only 12secs, so be it, it's more or less the experience, joy, pride, and satisfaction that I do what I do, instead of half-assing it all together, paying someone else to work on my car, or ditching my ride for a better one. (5 months on jackstands, $1000 worth of parts to make it move, sat for 2yrs in NE weather)

Thanks, Nick

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

One more mention of "FnF" and this shit is getting locked.
This thread is going nowhere.
It all depends on 2 things:
a)How much you have to spend.
b)Street or Strip
There is virtually no limit to what these engines can do when set-up properly. It has been said a few times, traction is the limiting factor on a fwd car but on the street or highway, when racing from a roll, it's a different story...

__________________________________________________________
-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX

If you want to do it in the right order, you'll have to start with the engine's internals (boring and honing isn't all that expensive....just make sure it's done right so ask around for a distinguished local place). No way would you want to take it out later to get that all done. Build off of that. Definately get something to adjust your A/F ratio (datalogger of some sort). And a way to monitor what's going on with your engine (wideband O2, EGT gauge, boost gauge, oil press....etc). Don't forget your suspension by the way. Often overlooked, however very important.

My next comment is by no means offensive.
-Why do you keep mentioning your job that you have or the job you could have had? It's great that you're earning your way through life, however you don't need to share that everytime you open up a new thread. And don't be afraid to open new threads after me saying this. I enjoy reading other people's material to learn or share information. Just don't keep saying useless things man. Again, no offense.

Well, I mention my job as a reference that I kind of know what I'm doing, and I will pretty much understand any service, part, or other car related things people might mention. Basically, yea, thats it. I used to be some random Japanese kid that had a crappy GS that asked a lot of questions. But yeah, being a full-time mechanic with no actual job training, or school to teach me the stuff kinda tells people I do know some stuff about what I'm doing and what I want to do.

As for suspension, I'll never overlook that. In my ricer stage, I got the $40 "coils" from ebay, and teeter-tottered my way over bumps for months, and had such bad camber that I wore half my tires to the belts.

I got an alignment machine at work, and plans to get upper+lower strut tie-bars, Tein S-Techs and Tokico 5-ways, and front and rear camber kits. Suspension is by no means first on my list of "to-do" mods, but is something I won't forget about.

Way off topic, but how does the following parts list sound as a "foot-in-the-door" list of mods?

Evo 3 turbo
Evo 3 o2 housing
RRE short downpipe
High-flow cat
Apex'i N1 cat-back
extremepsi.com's DSM fuel kit (injectors, S-AFC II, and 255 walboro for around $650ish)
MBC or Apex'i AVC-R

That sound good to you guys?

Thanks for all the help so far, when I hit the $150 million Power Ball jackpot, you'll all be in mind

-Nick

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

__________________________________________________________
-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX