#817, "Need to ReTorque Head 500 miles after head gasket replacement?"
Hey guys, I need some opinions. Do I need to have the head retorqued after replacing the head gasket? I had the head ported and milled to 10.6:1 compression, and have driven over 500 miles with the stock MLS head gasket. Someone mentioned that it should be retorqued after driving a while? Is that necessary, because its a lot more labor since the cams have to be removed to retorque the head. Thanks.
#818, "Go by what Mike at Road Race says" In response to Reply # 0
If they say you have to, they should take care of it for you. If they say no, then I wouldn't worry about it. I just know in my experience rebuilding a car, and having a head gasket done if you are gonna drive it hard you have to check to make sure the head bolts stay within spec on the torque settings. Best of luck to you.
2003 VW GTI 1.8t.. I used to have a 95 Eclipse but well...water sucks.
#819, "RE: Go by what Mike at Road Race says" In response to Reply # 1
no, it is not required to retourqe, when the head bolts get tourqed the first time and with the additional 1/4 turn on each one, does the job. Not to mention that after the head gets hot the bolts threds will swell a little causeing it to seal even more. But if who ever did the work says it should be rechecked and they are willing to do the job as part of the install, then hey! might as well. I just rebuilt the motor and I was told there will be no retourqeing of anything. SEE YA!!!!!!!!!!!MWC
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
#821, "Well - maybe it isn't the same for all cars..but..." In response to Reply # 3
I know that it is definitely required on the Honda CRX that I was playing around with. I had the head milled, and replaced the head gasket - it was absolutely necessary to check and re-torque if necessary the head bolts on the car after 500 miles as well as change the oil, etc...
Of course it only required removing the valve cover to do it.
This allows you to be certain their is no seapage due to expansion of parts (which happens after you heat them) - when you are sealing everything back together is your engine warm???
I don't know - I am still gonna stick by my guns of checking the head bolts to be sure - I would really rather not have to pull the head to do the head gasket a second time because I didn't want to spend the extra hour checking the bolts to make sure they were staying within spec. Good luck Eclipse804 whatever it is that you decide. I am a stubborn guy - and I will continue to be stubborn
2003 VW GTI 1.8t.. I used to have a 95 Eclipse but well...water sucks.
#823, "RE: Well - maybe it isn't the same for all cars..but..." In response to Reply # 5
Thanks for the input guys. I guess its not necessary but an option. Mike at RRE wanted me to find out what other 2gnt guys had to say, since each motor is different. The turbos don't really have a problem with hg leak, and usually any dealer won't tell you to come back to retorque it after driving around, so I'm sure it will be ok without being retorqued right? Thanks.
#824, "RE: Well - maybe it isn't the same for all cars..but..." In response to Reply # 6
I had my head milled just as you and never retorqued the head. Its been well over a yr and over 30K miles and I plenty of lbs of nitrous pushed through it.
#825, "RE: Well - maybe it isn't the same for all cars..but..." In response to Reply # 7
Hey Stan, I wanted to ask you about your car. How is the idle? Is it rougher than before? Did you port the head? Also, have you tuned your cam gears at all - any suggestions? And are you going to still run such high compression with the turbo? Dang I have a lot of questions...
You don't have to retorue your head Bolts if you are using the stock head bolts, if you were using ARP head studs, then yes you will need to.
BTW, you don't have to take the cams off to retorque your head studs or even head bolts (I retorques my stock head bolts just for the heck of it) you will just need to use short 15mm socket along with the mid size extender (not what's the actual diamter of that extender, but there are only 3 sizes, big, small and mid. I used the mid size with short 15mm socket and turned the bolts 1/8 of a turn, again I did not have to do that, but I did it just to make me feel better
#829, "RE: Well - maybe it isn't the same for all cars..but..." In response to Reply # 8
>Hey Stan, I wanted to ask >you about your car. >How is the idle? >Is it rougher than before?
Just like stock
> Did you port the >head?
No. Ran out of money
Also, have you >tuned your cam gears at >all - any suggestions?
Cam gears have been taken off since they weren't installed properly initially. All I can say is milling the head retards timing. When I had them I was all over the place on a daily basis (another reason I never tried to put them back on)
>And are you going to >still run such high compression >with the turbo?
Just 5psi until I can pull the head and put the CNNP .040" spacer (as soon as I can afford the labor) in place to bring me back up to near stock (pistons are 9.8C). Then eventually I"ll put my orig head back on for a 9:1 compression but I need to put in new valvetrain parts and get it ported.
I just rebuilt the motor and I was told there will be no retourqeing of anything.
