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I think this is an excellent beginner mod. Check http://www.2gnt.com/dcforum/DCForumID13/1056.html#14
It requires little enginuity and use of only a few tools. It's pretty simple. Here are some directions that Ethan Albright posted when he 1st installed his:
"Here is how the install went: %&^$%@!@#$!@#!!#*#%*!!! Getting the stock pulley off actually turned out to be the easiest part, albeit labor intensive. I think its impossible to remove it without dropping the engine. The good new is that its not necessary to go through all of the steps for lowering the engine as discussed in the instructions. I discovered that all you have to do is support the weight of the engine under the oil pan with a floor jack (Be sure to use a board to distribute the weight evenly across the underside of the oil pan), then remove the one through bolt that holds the passenger side engine mount to the chassis and lower the engine with the jack until it comes to rest. You can only lower the engine about a half an inch using this method, but that’s plenty to get at the pulley, and it’s a lot easier than removing the entire engine mount and underside cross member. To remove the pulley, hold on to the center of the pulley using a three-jaw puller, and draw it off slowly (See the Chilton’s manual for a good pic). There are actually little notches on the backside of the inner part of the pulley to hold on to with the puller. Do not entirely remove the bolt that hold on the pulley, but rather back it out incrementally as you draw off the pulley so that you have something to push against as you do this. After removing the old pulley, I used the second method as discussed in the instructions to install the UDP; heating the UDP to 500 degrees Fahrenheit in the oven and sliding it on the shaft. As it turns out, the shaft had been marred by the old pulley, so that the UDP only went on about an eighth of an inch and then stuck. It took me more than an hour, three Band-Aids, one cracked timing belt cover, and a few small dents in my UDP to get it off again. I was not in a good mood at this point. I then sanded the surface of the shaft to remove the burrs and then the pulley just slid on like butter (when hot, of course). Everyone, PLEASE make sure that the surface of the shaft is smooth before installing the UDP, or else the same thing will happen to you. I then re-installed everything and voila! After starting the engine to make sure that everything worked okay, I took it for a test drive.
The review: The first thing that I noticed is that the engine revved more smoothly. As soon as I took it out onto open road, I floored it to see what it could do. Unlike before, when the engine would just sort of groan when I would floor it in second at about 2k RPM, it immediately picked up and pulled hard. The engine felt confident, and overall the car felt much lighter. I continued up until third gear red line, then backed off. The engine really felt like it wanted to just keep going past 7200 RPM! The engine also accelerates much smoother now, and idles better too. I would say that they pulley easily adds 10 Hp – 15 Hp across the entire RPM band. Aside from the installation, you really can’t go wrong for the money with this one. Easily the best spent $140 dollars ever! E-mail me if you have any questions that I might be able to answer."
Too bad he isn't with Team2GNT. He COMPLETELY understood turbo theory and engine mechanics. He held a degree or something like that.
Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"
*Skrilla
"Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me"
Talon: 1st 2.4L
'97 Prelude
'04 350Z
Originally posted by YourInMyMirror95GS
dick teaser's should be rounded up and shot in the forehead
Originally posted by etxGood luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!  Originally posted by Dark0ne
Thanks. Now excuse me while i fuck your sister.
"fuck all motor" -turbo ate you
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