I just got my car running again for the year and had swapped out the intake mani and am running the portfueler setup. I'm getting code 52. Things I installed were a missing link (not sure which gen it is), portfueler setup (injectors and all) and the intake manifold with throttle body. I know the missing link is hissing out of it's hole like crazy and I'm wondering if this leak would cause the car to throw a code 52. I'm wondering if I need to start looking into whether or not I'm having an injector problem or if it's more than likely the missing link having too much of a leak... It runs really well when in boost, but idling it eventually throws a code. Never had this problem before...
#138572, "RE: CEL 52" In response to Reply # 0 Mar-22-15 04:28 PM by Red90Sev
Went to work on the car today and now I can't even get rid of the code. Disconnecting the battery does nothing, even without starting it, the code is there as soon as I key on the vehicle. I'm starting to think my map sensor has gone bad. I'm just stuck here because my car is at my parents house and I don't have many tools or spare parts with me. Anyone have any input?
EDIT: Just plugged in a known good map sensor and the cel still comes on as soon as the car is keyed on. I can't even get rid of the code by disconnecting the battery...
By any chance, did you install new or recently cleaned primaries when you installed the portfueler? If they are leaking/poor spray pattern you may be getting a lot of excess fuel. What are your short and long term fuel trims?
2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild... Daily: Volt Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO
#138574, "RE: CEL 52" In response to Reply # 2 Mar-22-15 10:33 PM by Red90Sev
Originally posted by ez By any chance, did you install new or recently cleaned primaries when you installed the portfueler? If they are leaking/poor spray pattern you may be getting a lot of excess fuel. What are your short and long term fuel trims?
I've got my datalogger at my house... Unfortunately I have hardly any tools with me. I was supposed to just drive it home on Tuesday, had no clue I was going to have these issues. It is idling right around 14.7 on my wideband though... The thing that's killing me is I can't even shake the code from the ecu. Just removed the batt cable and am going to leave it over night. I've tried it several times though. I disconnected the injector harness completely then hooked the battery back up and 52 is still there when I do the key dance. Then I disconnected the o2 sensor and reconnected the battery, still 52. So it's triggering the cel 52 without even starting the car.. I'm thinking it has to be a faulty sensor somewhere right?
I don't understand why you can't drive it though. I thought the ECU resets all codes when depowered. If it's still on even after disconnecting the battery, without starting the car, I'm not sure how a faulty sensor could do that without also causing a sensor code. I don't use a missing link but it sounds like yours has a vacuum leak.
2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild... Daily: Volt Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO
Originally posted by ez I don't understand why you can't drive it though. I thought the ECU resets all codes when depowered. If it's still on even after disconnecting the battery, without starting the car, I'm not sure how a faulty sensor could do that without also causing a sensor code. I don't use a missing link but it sounds like yours has a vacuum leak.
I can drive it, does that code throw the car into limp mode? I have to drive it home which is 120 miles away. As far as the ecu resetting, I have no clue, any time I've ever had a cel, I've pulled the negative batt cable and it cleared it. So, either the ecu isn't clearing the code and it's faulty, or something else is triggering the cel when I key one the car, before I even start it. I left the batt disconnected all night to see if that would do it, so I'll report back here shortly whether it worked or not.
I ran a Missing Link long ago. It never hissed at idle. I believe that it is supposed to seal when there is vacuum in the intake manifold and vent any pressure above atmospheric (as seen by the MAP sensor). Maybe the O-ring got pinched during installation.
Think the missing link was shot, replaced it and left the batt disconnected all night long. The code cleared and all is good now. I've never had a code take that long to clear, weird. Drive the car home and runs like a champ again. Thanks for the help guys.
Thanks for the help guys.