My question pertains specifically to the 3 wire park/neutral safety switch that is on the automatic trans harness and how best to splice into the new manual trans 2 wire switch.The car is a 95 eclipse rs. I have some wiring diagrams but as you know most are tech info related strictly to repair of existing systems, not modifications such as this swap. I'm nearly ready to start testing the hookups and buttoning everything back together. Corbin's excellent article on this swap has guided me through to this point very well, in conjunction with some wiring diagrams I'd say it has come along nicely. I hate splice and pray. Don't want to go there. The 3wire consists of a red/blue dashes, a black/blue stripe, and a black/yellow stripe. The manual switch consists of red/blue stripe and black/white stripe. I think I've pretty much scoured this forum looking for this little tidbit, but I know there are some very skilled individuals on this forum that can speak to this little stumble. Thanks in advance.

I drew up the wiring diagram in the Wiki assuming that you would have the reverse sensor in your hand with the connector facing you. If you prefer to double check that with wire color to wire color, I can probably help. On a 1995, pin 1 on the reverse sensor plug is red/blue stripe. Pin 2 is black/white stripe. So, take the red wire (may have blue dashes) from the park/neutral switch and connect it to the red/blue stripe wire from the reverse sensor plug. Then, take the black/white stripe wire from the park/neutral switch and connect it to the black/white stripe wire from the reverse sensor plug. If your reverse lights turn on when the ignition switch is ON and transmission is in reverse, you are good to go.


Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

Will do. I was thrown a bit by the Mitsubishi electrical manual where it very clearly shows the trans-axle range connector as a 10 pin.(A108)on page 194. After looking at your photos it was obviously not the case for the 95. The park/neutral safety switch conn. and the trans/position switch conn.in my vehicle are identical to the ones in your photos. I'll hook them up tomorrow and test it out. If it's good, then I'll remove the auto ECM and install the manual ECM. That way I know if it's crapped without second guessing my previous work. Thanks for a quick response, and an excellent article.

Well, so far I've no reverse lights with that hookup. No voltage to the actual lamp itself. Bulbs look fine. I have 12v in the red wire at the splice. Also 12v at the 3rd wire from the old transaxle switch I did not hookup. It shows constant 12v even when not in reverse. I guess I'll try the 3rd wire to the red and splice to see what happens. If I have circuit integrity, the reverse lights should light constant, with or without reverse. But that's for later, after I figure out why the car will only start when the clutch switch is NOT engaged. I've read about some starter relays being ground supply circuits, while others hot supply. I'm guessing that would mean one kind of relay is normally open, and the other is normally closed, until power or ground is supplied. I'm frankly just unsure how to test to see what kind of relay I have and if a reroute of the wire to another point in the relay might solve it. What do you think?

Tested so far: Removed splice from park/neu/switch into reverse switch and spliced transaxle range switch wires in its' place, still no voltage to reverse lamps. All multi-purpose fuses beneath dash tested good. Swapped out switch with another from pullapart: no voltage to reverse lamps. All this done with key on and shifter in reverse. I'm thinking next will be a black or red from the prk/neut.switch and a corresponding red or black from the transaxle switch. Don't really know at this point but it is going to be a fairly simple problem, not easy, but probably simple. I'm a fair novice at this sort of thing but have a digital multimeter and a test light. If you have some suggestions how to proceed that would be great. Also resistance tested switch with ball depressed and got a reading of .03 ohms. That should be a good switch, would you agree?

I'm sorry. I must have left out a critical piece of information. There is one more connection to make. Here is the A/T back-up light circuit.



You have already used the reverse sensor to replace the park/neutral position switch. That provides power to the coil on the back-up light relay. Unfortunately, the other side of the coil needs a ground (previously provided by the TCU). You need to take the white wire with red stripe from the TCU (EATX ECU) and connect it to a ground. A convenient ground is the black wire from the transaxle range switch. Confirm that this works for you and I'll add it to the Wiki.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

That was spot on correct. Reverse lights are good to go. I don't think I would have been able to sort that one out, certainly not quick. There are some significant differences between the diagram you sent me, and the one that I have. Nowhere in the backup light diagram I have is there a relay, only the ball switch. Go figure? I never did locate a physical relay (A-71 on your page), but I did locate the ONLY white with red stripe wire behind (A-77) 60 pin connector, so that should be a solid piece of info that will get it done for everyone. Thanks again for the solid info. Wanna take a crack at the clutch safety switch? It will only start with the clutch pedal out, instead of in. Easy right?

Where are you getting your diagrams? If it is the electrical manual available on 2GNT, that is for later model cars (not 1995). The back-up light relay only exists on the A/T car (1995). The M/T car just uses the reverse switch. The back-up light relay should be in the engine bay, the row of four relays on the firewall next to the brake fluid reservoir. As far as the clutch safety switch goes, does your clutch pedal assembly have one or two switches? Some have two switches. One engages when the pendal is in, one when it is out. You should be connecting the one that has the plunger pushed in when the pedal is pushed all the way in.


Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

Update; I checked the clutch pedal mounting location again and in fact, there are two mounting positions available. The one I installed the switch to was a closed,(switch pushed in) with pedal out position, So I took it out,(PIA), and remounted it to the front mounting location, which was open,(switch plunger out), with pedal out position. This allowed starting and running the vehicle and required pushing the clutch in to start vehicle. Good call my friend. For future swappers, this would be good info in the wiki. As to the source of my manual info I downloaded this "manual" which was 2100 pages, plus a 540 page electrical supplement, but I noticed every single page has the words, "TSB Revisions" at the bottom captioned in a box. I don't know the significance of that except that it is obviously revised info from some other unrevised edition. I tried to capture a page with the backup light circuit for you to look at but it is in adobe pdf. It was 17.00 bucks or so and it 's helped a lot, but now I'm wondering what's missing that's not helping at all? One other observation for all considering this. When I went to the pullapart to scavenge parts for this car I pulled a lower member and front trans-mount from the same model year 95 with factory 5 speed. It was in much better condition than the existing member, so I brought it home. When I was ready to install it I laid the two members side by side just to make sure they were the same. They were not. The replacement unit was 1 and 1/2 inches shorter than the unit that was on the car with the AT. So I didn't use the shorter because I knew the other one fit, but when I started and ran the car there was a lot of vibration throughout the interior and the front mount was quite contorted by the time it was buttoned up. I'm going to swap for the shorter member to see if this corrects those issues. Mainly because I don't think the front mount would last very long the way it's out of shape. Any thoughts on that? I'll keep you posted.

Is it possible that you pulled the lower member and front trans mount from a 1995 MT 4G63 car? They look fairly similar.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

I'll check that out when I go back to the yard. I relied on the barcode sticker the yard puts on their cars, rather than looking at the plate on the door, but it was ID as a 95 eclipse and the motor was so alike that I almost pulled and took it home also. I picked it over pretty good for the switches and sensors that I could use. Also got ground effects, wiring harness, interior trim, rear wiper motor, antenna,electric sunroof with module and switches,heat shield, trunk pan carpet and hinged floor board, probably forgot something, but it was a real gem. If you have a pullapart or something like it, that's the only way to go. They update online every car that comes in, so when I see what I'm looking for, I'm on it quick before it gets cannabalised by some other lucky tightwad. I did look at the engine block ID and it seems like it was a 420A, but I'll look again, if there is anything left. Do you think this would explain the difference in the length, and if so, I need to sort out why the front mount rubber was so torqued out after installing the original. The other mounts except for the drivers side top are good, as is the rear bracket. I replaced it with the correct MT bracket. I'm going to try and install the other member today and I'll let you know if it's better,or just won't fit at all.