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Ah, ok. So you have a non-modular. Yes, that's a little trickier to get in. What you need to is angle the back part of the tranny (where the diff is) up a little to get it over the cross member (while leaving the nose of the tranny -where the driverside mount is- a little low). Then you start to bring the nose of the tranny (where the driverside mount is) up to mate to the block. But I don't worry about the bolt holes at this point. I just watch for the input shft going into place.
Once its there (it is a little bit easier to lower the flywheel side of the block- just a little), I then twist the tranny up to match the bolt holes.
One thing I also do (whether mod or not), is a take a piece of duct tape and tape the throw out bearing pivot arm to the tranny mount bracket, so that I won't acidentally push it around and lose the throw out bearing position.
I've gotten pretty good at the manuvuer over the years, but it is a bit tricky at first (like the passenger side motor mount when doing the timing belt)
Captain Caveman
96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq 97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq 98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats 99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97 99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!
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