So I'm going to start compiling a list of everything that needs to be done in order to do an ATX to MTX swap. I'm also going to post the pictures that I have taken during this process to post up on the wiki. I wanted to include this in the forums as well so that people can search for this info and see it.
As I go with this I would like people to ask for clarification on spots that I am unclear on. Also, if you have anything to add to this information I would like you to add that as well. This will probably be a slow process as I am still doing the swap.
First thing I'll list will be parts needed. Followed by what needs to go where. Finally any problems that I encountered along the way.
I don't have pictures of every single thing that needs to be done. This is not something that I want to spoon feed to people. I'm going to make the assumption that whoever is attempting this swap is fairly proficient with a wrench. I'm also assuming that you will be able to figure out how to get the engine/transmission out of your car.
About the only two things that I will suggest for pulling the motor/transmission is that you invest in some duct tape and a sharpie marker. It's amazing how easy it is to forget what goes where on the wiring harness when the car is sitting on jacks for a week or two. Or in my case about 5-6 weeks. The other is putting any and all loose bolts nuts back as soon as possible. When you pull the side motor mount, screw the nuts and bolts back into their respective mounting points as soon as you pull the half of the mount out. Again this will save you much headache later on.
I'll probably start uploading and cropping pictures at some point tomorrow. It's late now and I need sleep. Sorry for rambling.
#6276, "RE: ATX to MTX swap" In response to Reply # 1
It will definitely go up on the wiki after I am finished with it. It's just while the car is down I'm doing all new ball joints, adjustable upper control arms on the front, full polyurethane bushing kit, timing gears and maybe some other stuff depending on how thin I want to spread myself this month.
Hopefully the motor will be on its way back into the car next weekend though. Working weekends sucks.
#6292, "RE: ATX to MTX swap" In response to Reply # 2
One of the main things you may notice if you do a transmission swap in a 420A powered car from automatic to manual is that your speedometer doesn't work, your car has a 6K rev limiter, and your reverse lights don't work There is a solution. To solve the rev limiter problem, simply use a manual transmission engine computer. This will raise yoru fuel cut to 7200 rpm and your ignition cut to 7800 rpm. To fix the reverse lights, simply get a harness plug for the manual transmission reverse switch (it is located near the front of the transmission) and run both wires to the 10 pin harness that was originally hooked to the front of the automatic transmission. One wire should be run to pin 1 on that harnes (black wire with a white stripe.....goes to the reverse light fuse) and the other wire should be hooked to pin #6 which is directly below pin 1. Pin 6 has a red wire with a blue stripe coming from it. This should get your reverse lights working again. To get the speedometer working again, you will have to get the factory plug from the M/T speed sensor (might have to get it from a junk yard) and you will need to run the #3 pin from the harness to pin 66 on the lower ecu connector. This will be a yellow wire with a white stripe. This wire is hooked in parallel with your speedometer and should still send a pulse signal to it. the middle wire from the speed sensor should be sent to pin 43 on the lower ecu harness. This will be a black wire with a green stripe. This supplies an internal ground for the circuit. The #1 pin from the speed sensor should be run to pin 44 on the lower ecu harness. This is a solid yellow wire. This supplies 8 volts to the sensor, which is the normal operating voltage. DO NOT SEND 12V TO THE SENSOR. This system works because the auto transmission computer takes signals from the intput and output speed sensors and converts that to relative speed pluses that the engine computer and speedometer can use. Without the auto transmission, the EATX-ECM has no output to the gauge or ECU. This electrical re-wire should fix this problem. Pin #3 on the speed sensor should have a little more space between the center plug than pin #1. To restore cruise control and b able to start the car, you must hook up the clutch pedal switch. the black wire with yellow stripe from the 10 pin harness used for the transaxle range switch should be located in pin #5. This wire should be hooked up to a clutch pedal switch that is grounded while depresed.
Thanks for the above Armond. I'm throwing this here since I can't find it referenced on the site. If you would like to read more of Armond's stuff head on over to www.armond30.com
