Okay so make a long story short here we go:

Last night driving around town before class doing a real nice 22psi pull, then i come to a stop sign and stop obviously. Push clutch in, would not go into any gear. Finally after fideling (sp?) around w/ the shifter, I slammed it into gear and it went. Now, after I did this, the clutch was releasing REAL close to the floor board, just barely letting off the clutch it would stall. So I get to class fast in 2nd gear, check everything out, all the linkage and what not looked fine. Wait 4hrs for class to be over, drive all the way home on the highway for about 20mins, shifting okay, but still releasing real low again. Get home to my driveway and what the fuck, it WONT go into gear. I finally got in gear, got half way up the driveway and now it wouldnt come out. Shut the car off, and just trying to slam it into first, well it went, tried starting the car, and it just like wedged forward everytime I would try to start it and it wouldnt start. Then, I had to take both hands to pull the fucker out of gear. After that, I have no more clutch pedal, it just shoots to the floor with no tension now. I checked the brake fluid and it was okay, still full.

Do you guys think this is a possible hydraulic problem/leak, or the clutch/tob or even the tranny is fucked up?

Its the SPEC stage 3 clutch with about 1400miles on it. Just weird how it did it before class and then it was semi-fine on the way home, now just FUCKED.

Any help will GREATLY appreciated here.

edit: i havent checked anything out yet but the fluid cuz I am at class so any idea's will be checked tonight before class when i get out of work!

TIA!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Note to self: Do not buy a car from this guy!

It is VERY likely that your only problem WAS the clutch... now, you may also have a transaxle problem. For certain, your "slam" box is not as good as it was.

If you must move the car then pump the clutch b/4 sliding it into gear (reverse or 1st) b/4 starting engine. Then start the car and release what is left of clutch as engine begins to snort and buck to life. But, be on the ready with brake as you have no clutch. Don't try to shift - just creep along with flashers blaring and be patient. To get car out of gear pump the clutch while pushing stick to neutral gate with mild pressure - again, with engine off. We do not have straight cut gears so give your dogs on syncros a break! Best bet is to have car moved on a flat back.

How do I know all this? Well, I just moved my new buy two weeks ago (3 miles) using same procedure. My transmission is now on the bench waiting for me to split the case and have a look inside. Why? Because I'm afraid PO did exactly what you have described.

No offense, my friend... you should learn to take care of and respect your machinery. First rule - don't force anything.

Cheers

usually when it releases real close to the floor its a hydrolic problem.

yeah ^^^ don't force unless you have another tranny.

// Jim // 95 Talon / 99 Eclipse (sold)

Cincinnati,OH

lol who is this guy to tell me how to treat the rs-t? lol jk man.

anywho, i dont need a flat bed, the car is at my house, like i stated, i made it to my driveway and was just able to push the fucker back up to the garage. i am getting ready to go out and try to find a leak hopefully or a faulty master cylinder. keep you posted.

thanks for the idea's so far though guys.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

K, I 'may' have found a small leak where the fitting is that connects the hardline from the flex hose to the slave cyl. I took it off, cleaned it up, and put the slave back on.

I am just waiting for the damn line to bleed now, its been like 15 mins and still no fluid from the bleeder, gravity feeding sucks.

EDIT: is there any way to speed up the process up bleeding out the slave cyl?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

K problem fixed I believe!

Slave cyl was slightly leaking, filled up the resorvoir again, let it bleed for about 30 mins, started up, shifts smoothly again for now.

Real test wont be until its nice out again and I can get out on the road again and drive the beast.

Thanks for those who helped.

Mods this can be deleted now...

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

You are right - it's none of my business as to how you chose to treat that thing. Hope all goes well and works out OK on this.

I would say the rule of thumb is that if you are having problems with where the clutch engages, the first thing to check is the master cylinder (right on the top of the clutch pedal and under the reservoir in the engine bay. Feel around to check for fluid under the clutch pedal. Then move over to the slave cylinder (where the line is bled) and again check for fluid. If nothing, then go ahead and start to bleed the lines. If you still have the problem, then you can pretty much rule out a hydraulic problem and move onto a mechanical one (clutch, tob, tranny, etc). And why would the mods delete this? Hopefully some BANME! will actually use the search button, find they are having the same problem and know at least what to check for.

Good luck, btw.

'95 GSX - New motor/turbo going in...
'95 TSi AWD - For sale...buy me!
'03.5 MazdaSpeed Protege - Stock daily driver
'97 CBR 600 - Purple is a real man's color

I know that whenever I have had a problem that you described, it was the slave cylinder leaking. And it would only do it when I has a hard pull, like at the track or something. I think that it happened twice at the track, but never on the street.
Hopefully the prob wont persist, like mine did. The only rememdy for me was to replace the slave cylinder.

Jonathan
95 Eclipse GS
8 injector
Hahn Stage 3.5
Howell 2.2L Stroker

T O T A L L E D, T H A N K S T O S O M E A S S H A T!!!!!!!!!!!!

couple things:

As stated Mike, never force the trans in and out of gear. Look in the trans section, i posted pictures of stanleys trans after i pulled it apart and examined the 3 gears he tore up from a spec 3 problem. If you were able to pull any gear out of gear, then you have already done some type of small amount of damage. I keep a stock of parts so dont worry should more problems arise and you know how to get a hold of me.

Your issue as you found a leak was the problem. To ease the bleeding issue, gravity bleeding will not help you get all the air out of our system. The curvature of the rubber hose is what hurts you. Look for a reverse bleeding tool in any motorcycle catalog. Its basically a syringe (sp) with different rubber fittings. Basically you drain the master and force fluid upwards from the slave. This is how you bleed harley's and many other bikes.

Terry