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Here is a writeup from a while back.
I beleive all the info is still correct
Supplies needed:
-1 Trans-Go Shift Kit
-6 quarts of Mopar ATF+3 fluid (Mopar ONLY)
-1 tube of Mopar silicon sealant (Mopar ONLY)
-1 transmission oil filter (Mopar ONLY)
-2 small pieces of wood
-some 220 and 320 grit emery cloth
-1 quart of lacquer thinner (for cleaning the valve body parts)
-some lint-free cloths or some canned compressed air (for cleaning the valve body parts)
-oil pan big enough for the collecting the oil when draining the trans
-couple of pieces of wood.
-3M Scotchbrite pad
-Small tube of Vasoline
Tools needed:
-soft faced mallet
-#25 Torx wrench
-10mm and 12 mm socket wrench and ratchet
-variable speed Dremel tool
-spring retainer clip tool
-pliers
-.002 to .005 feeler gauge or shim stock.
- a numbered drill set (or individual drills)
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Disassembly:
Disconnect battery and raise and support car safely.
Place the gear shift lever into 1st gear.
Loosen but do not remove the bolts on tranny oil pan. Make sure they are only holding by a couple of threads.
Place the LARGE pan underneath and take a rubber mallet and tap the oil pan until you break the seal. This will start draining the oil and it can make a HUGE mess!
Under the hood locate shift linkage. It will be right beside the trannys' dipstick.
Loosen 12mm bolt on the linkage and remove from shift lever. Take 320 grit sandpaper or a 3M Scotchbrite Pad and completely clean the shift lever rod. This rod is connected to the valve body and will pass through the transmission while you are removing it and it might get stuck if it's dirty.
Disconnect the computer connector that is located right next to the shift linkage.
Remove the tranny oil pan and filter.
Beneath the filter you will find a plate with a number of 10mm hex bolts and #25 torx screws. BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING, make a note of the location of these screws and bolts.
Remove the 10mm bolts. (ed note: Remove them like torqueing a head to a motor, in a cross pattern and by partially loosening each of them, then loosening them more.) These are what holds the valve body assembly to the tranny. Gently pull on the valve body assembly. It should come out fairly easy. If it does not come out make sure that there is no crud on the shift lever rod and that you are not in park, if it is coming out but sticky try wiggling it a little bit. As you are removing the assembly two springs and two small pistons may fall out. This is normal so you need not worry.
Once the assembly is out, remove the shift lever rod. It is held on by one #25 Torx screw.
Now turn over the assembly and remove the #25 Torx screws. Lift the separator plate (the thin plate sandwiched between the to castings) and the channel casting together. Flip over the separator plate and the channel casting before lifting off the separator plate.
Once the assembly is disassembled you can cleaned all the parts.
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Instructions
Now you can begin following the instructions in the Trans-Go Kit.
Here's some helpful tips from the Trans-Go technical department.
Page 1 Skip for this installation.
Page 2 For step 1-Page 2, take the small tube of Vaseline and put into the freezer for a few hours. Put a small dab in the grove on the piston, before putting the expander ring and new seal on. This will hold them in place while you install them. Do not install the UD and OD pistons at this time. The same goes for Step 2 for the UD and OD pistons. Complete Step 1 and 2 for L/R piston though.
Page 3 Here is a tip on how to drill these holes out. (ed note: I recommend that you drill the holes out to the MAXIMUM drill size listed!) Take a small piece of plywood (6 x 6 ) and drill a 1/4 or 3/8 hole in it. Locate the hole you wish to drill on the separator plate and place the wood so that the hole is exposed through the hole in the wood. Place this on another piece of wood and then use C-clamps and clamp it all together. Now the plate will not move or lift off on you while you drill the holes.
I suggest using a variable speed Dremel tool set on 1 and drill them slowly. If you follow this, you should do fine. After drilling the holes, use a bit of 320 grit emery cloth and sand both sides of the plate where you drilled to remove any burrs. Clean the plate thoroughly.
The rest of page 3 is showing you where the little parts go back and how they should be orientated. They should be sandwiched between he plate and the casting when reassembled and the plate should sit flat on the casting. (ed note: This is VERY important!)
Page 4 skip it for this installation.
Page 5 You do not need to replace the orange spring in our cars. This is for much older 604's than are in our cars. As for grinding on the chamfer on the reducer bushing, the tech told me that this was only necessary if you have the chrome-colored bushing. If you have a dark green-grey bushing, you do not need to grind this chamfer as this is the newest version and the problem had been corrected. Do Part C and Part D on page 5.
Page 6 Unless you are experiencing engine codes 22 and 24, I would not bother to do this.
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Valve Body
Now that you are finished with the modifications, it is time to re-assemble it.
Make sure that the balls (shown on page 5) are in place and then you can put the small parts in the channel casting (as shown on page 3) and put the separator plate on top. Make sure the plate sits flat on the channel casting. Now holding the plate and the casting together, sit it on top of the valve body (which is facing with the channels and balls facing up). Now holding the entire assembly together, flip it over and put the #25 Torx screw back in place. Tighten them to 4 ft/lbs.
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Reassembly
Now that the assembly is back together, put the shift rod back on and follow the instructions on page 5. All you want to do here is to make sure that the park lever rod is in the right position (with the little tab facing down) and it is completely out of the way so you can reinsert the valve body.
Before placing the valve body back in the tranny, take a little of the "cold" vaseline and place it on the seals of the pistons. Push them into place and the vaseline will hold them in place while you insert the valve body.
Put the shift lever rod through the hole in the tranny and push the valve body up , stopping short enough to be able to place the springs in. Hold the valve body in place (or have a friend hold the shift lever rod from the engine bay) and slip the spring and new spacer under each piston. After the springs are under the pistons, proceed pushing the valve body up in place until it sits flat on the tranny. If it does not, then the park lever could be sticking out a bit and not clearing. Lower the valve body enough to get your hand in and make sure it is in place and not getting hung up on anything.
After the springs are positioned under the open ends of the UD and OD pistons....
If you have got the Transgo instructions , you can see it. The UD and OD pistons go in CLOSED END first. The open end faces you for these two when they are installed. And yes that means the springs will fall out. when you open it up. The L/R goes in the OPEN END first, so that the spring is held inside the piston. There is a cover on this piston which is held in by a circlip.
Once it is completely flat and seated, put the 10mm hex heads back in and tighten them up to 4 ft/lbs. (ed note: cross torque these slowly!)
Hook up the shift linkage and make sure it shifts properly. Connect the computer connector to the tranny .
Now put the tranny oil pan back on. (ed note: I would HIGHLY recommend installing a transmission drain plug before reassembly!)
a great way of applying the silicone. First he lays a bead on the pan, going completely around the holes. Then he lets it sit for about 5 minutes to set. Then he places in on the tranny and tightens the screws only with the extension on the socket or holding the ratchet around the head. He lets it sit for a another 5 minutes or so and then torques them down. I would let it sit for about ten minutes to make sure it is cured before putting in tranny fluid as well.
With this done, lower the car, reconnect the battery and fill the tranny with fluid. Start the car and take it for a nice slow test drive. Once you are satisfied that it works and the tranny is warmed up, check the fluid level and top it up if necessary.
Over the next few days, check the level and check for leaks.
Note:
The drill bits may be hard to locate. The numbers of the drills you need are :
-Holes A and B Use a #38 (.101), #37 (.104) or a #36 (.1065)
-Hole C use a #48 (.076) or a 5/54 (.078)
-Hole D use a 1/16 (.062) or use any number drill between #53 (.063) through to #48 (.076)
1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough
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