This is mostly to vent frustration, as I think the search engine has given me a solution, though I will only know when I apply the solution or Dino comes in and says all my thinking is wrong. Also, the fact that several threads that came up with search have Terry mentioning he can drop and replace the tranny in 2 hours pisses me off to no end. Takes me muuuuuuuch longer. But I want to post here so that you guys can correct me if I'm wrong before I make the hour long trip after work to go fix the car in a frigid garage with wet cat smell and end up stuck far from home with a car that still can't shift and an a desire to BLOW SHIT UP

So I went against my motto of "if ain't broke don't fix it" and of course this means I'm already dealing with karma. My 99 RS has 130k on the original trans and clutch, and even ORIGINAL clutch line fluid and master/slave cylinder, and original clutch pedal settings. Never changed a thing and still worked perfectly. But I decided to replace with a trans that had a LSD and a used DXD clutch. Really wanted that LSD and the trans gears were already machined to match it...

Anyways, finally fired up project nightmare - everything was beautiful, but the replacement trans won't shift when engine is on.


Details:

-I did not replace the slave or master cylinders, nor was the hydrolic hose replaced, so that takes the whole hydrolic system variable out of the equation.

-Shifter lines connected properly, no restrictions to movement of shifter levers, shift line mounts rock solid, and those brass tabs are in holding the lines in place

-brand new trans fluid

-Restrictor mod has never been performed

-TOB visually appeared okay

-clutch appeared okay (no bent clutch springs where TOB sits)

-clutch lever did not look bent

-won't go into ANY gear easily when engine is on(rules out syncros, because how could all of them go out at the same time if there was adequate trans fluid in the case)

-slips into gears easily when engine is off

-(Single caveat - the slave cylinder does push itself out a little bit if you remove the slave from the trans and let it hang there. No fluid escaped from what I could tell, so I don't believe air entered the system)

-if I get it into reverse, and barely take my foot off the pedal, it starts to go in reverse.

References:
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=41691&mode=full
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=29965&mode=full
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=8048&mode=full
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm
^don't know if that last one just appears

Diagnosis:
clutch not disengaging


Solution(?):
Plan a)Move rod on pedal so that pedal engages at a higher point off the floor.
Plan b)bleed clutch line in a futile effort to fix things since this shouldn't be the issue as the hydrolics were fine before, but since 'a' failed this is the last thing I can do before
Plan c)BLOW SHIT UP, or
Plan d)drop the tranny and buy another clutch because someone here mentioned that once, their clutch wouldn't stop engaging when it failed, which leads to
Event X)my car being down for even longer, at the very least 2 weeks, b/c this weekend is valentines day and the girl ain't so happy with my recent automotive endeavors

Yea this is the most detailed post I've ever made but I'm tired of working on this stupid car and ending up having to borrow a ride to get to work. Help ez get nightmare back on the road soon

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO