I have read just about every post you have written and im still lost
1st For some reason my digital af gauge is reading 69 at the highest and stuck on lean. I am also having a problem with car not bogging down at 4000 rpm. This is y setup and hopefully you can help me.
I cant seem to get this to get out of its bog no matter in what gear or in what rpm range
My safc settings in lo throttle are at 1000=-16 2000=-15 3000=-14 4000=-13 5000=-12 6000=-10 7000=-8
My high throttle are as so 1000=-10 2000=-9 3000=-8 4000=-7 5000=-6 6000=-4 7000=-2
My safc is set at 4 cylinders but the only way I can get the arrow to point is towards the NE if it was a compass.
I just rebuilt the engine and cant get it to break in due to these issues. Any help you can give me would be greatly apreciated. I need to get it runnign so I can take it an get it tunned
#2569, "RE: help with studdering engine" In response to Reply # 1
I suggest you break it in with stock injectors and the S-AFC set at 0 or removed. It is a bad idea to swap in a new, untuned fuel system at the same time as a freshly rebuilt engine. You need a solid fuel system to properly break in the engine. Once the engine is broken in, you can swap in the fuel system and screw with it until you figure it out. As far as tuning goes, you will have a hell of a time running 440's with a 1:1 FPR like the Aeromotive and stock ECU with S-AFC screwing with its inputs. Bottom line is that you swapped in 87% larger injectors and are running stock fuel pressures. Leaning out 2-16% with the S-AFC just won't cut it. The S-AFC also is only set up to reference throttle position. Hit the gas hard from a stop and it starts dumping fuel because you are in the high throttle settings. You really need a fuel system that references boost as opposed to throttle position. You can do that with a S-FMU. You set the fuel pressure way low at idle to get the available fuel within spitting distance of the stock injectors and set up the S-FMU to give you the right fuel under full boost. Anything in between idle and full boost will be "close enough". Then, you can do the "fooling the S-AFC" mod to make your S-AFC reference boost instead of throttle position. That will let you do some fine tuning. You don't want to make any large adjustments with the S-AFC. It will throw off your ignition timing and can be very dangerous. What you will be left with is a fuel system that works, but isn't great.
I highly recommend that you sell the S-AFC and buy a pre-built MegaSquirt I set up to run fuel only. The price isn't that different. When set up for fuel only, it isn't that hard to set up. That way, you can keep the Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, 440's, and stock ECU while getting full control over fuel. Your car can run much better on that setup (you still have to tune it right though).
Corbin
'95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks
Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire
