ok, i searched and read and my eyes are almost bleeding. i want to know how much boost/power you guys got and what clutch you use to put it down cause my clutch slips at 17psi on the 60mm and i need a stronger one. i know the neon conversion will work but what about an srt? has anyone used a srt clutch and neon flywheele? i want to do something quick and want to dich the modular "stage 1" setup. tia!
#7327, "RE: clutch swaps - what works for us?" In response to Reply # 1
get an audi/vw pp from clutchnet as well
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#7329, "RE: clutch swaps - what works for us?" In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by eclipserst3 ok, i searched and read and my eyes are almost bleeding. i want to know how much boost/power you guys got and what clutch you use to put it down cause my clutch slips at 17psi on the 60mm and i need a stronger one. i know the neon conversion will work but what about an srt? has anyone used a srt clutch and neon flywheele? i want to do something quick and want to dich the modular "stage 1" setup. tia!
If you wanna do a conversion just get a sohc neon tranny which has the taller gears and keep the modular clutch, there is really no need to change it.
If you are thinking about using a srt4 tranny, forget it, there is something about our axles not fitting with that tranny, so its not a option, a quick search would had answered this question.
as for the non modular set up, I think I read some where that you might need a 1995 neon flywheel if you want to run non modular, don't quote me on that though, that info might be wrong.
To give you an idea, and this is what they recommended for me, I called southbend clutches and I told them my goal is 425-475 whp, so they recommended me getting a FE stage 4 clutch.
keep in mind my set up includes 25-30psi, and a gt35r... so it would be a little different for you depending on your set up.
#7332, "RE: clutch swaps - what works for us?" In response to Reply # 4 Aug-18-08 02:36 PM by justins71
He wasn't talkin about using an SRT tranny, just the clutch assy.
If I were you I'd just go South Bend FE and be done. I've got the OFE stage 3 on 15 psi and it'll take every bit I can give it so far. the OFE stage 4 may be fine for you, but if you forsee goin all out in the future just get the FE. Stage 1 on about any clutch is practically stock torque level, so no suprise it's slippin
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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark 50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts ARP Head studs Mild port/polish head 3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi
#7333, "RE: clutch swaps - what works for us?" In response to Reply # 5
i was about to buy a clutch when a kid sold me a turbo that i needed parts off of to fix my smoked one so the clutch is on hold at the moment. my set was to include a clutchnet sprung six puck and yellow pp with a resurfaced neon f/w and bolts from the local junkyard. any critisism will be appreciated.
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#7343, "RE: clutch swaps - what works for us?" In response to Reply # 7
thats funny, i just found and read that and now i see the link you just posted. thanks man. i'm not sure yet if thats what i want to do. has anyone here ever had the friction point on thier clutch change day by day? i adjusted the new clutch master as far as it will go and still had to cut a half inch off the slave pushrod just so the clutch wont hold pressure but after driving on it the pos is still holding pressure. ??? for some reason with the clutch out the line still has pres.
