97 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder 2.4l non turbo...175k miles

Car was just failed on state safety inspection for 'inner tie rods'. I must be doing something wrong because when I jack it up (at the frame) and try to jiggle the tire side to side/up and down it seems rock solid to me with no movement. Otherwise, car has no handling, vibration, weird sounds or pulling problems and tire wear was even after 80k. Just how do you tell if inner and/or outer tie rods are bad? Are the symptoms different for inner versus outer?

Next question after reading all the posts here about tie rods is: does it make sense to replace both inner and outer at the same time if I am going to do the inners anyway--under the assumption that if the inners are gone the outers will go soon?

Chiltons and Haynes only describe replacing (outer) tie rod ends which makes me even wonder if inners ever go (though threads here indicate otherwise) and the inspector just misdiagnosed.

thanks much, ggaarryy

If there is no play when you grab the wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock, then the tie rods are good. Take it to another inspection shop.

This is the same reason why I failed inspection. I got charged 400 smacks for the replacement of the inner and outer tie rod. They charged me this because the tire wiggled a little when it was in the air. I took it home and replaced the ball rack and pinion (witch was failing), tie rod boot and passed. Just make sure the inner isn’t damaged in anyway or has play, do this by pulling back the boot and inspect. It may only be the pinion; mechanics will say anything to shaft people. If all fails id take the advice above and take it to another shop.....

-Rafiel

Thanks all. The state police, which oversee the safety inspections said that the only way to question the station's rejection was to schedule a trooper to inspect it independently -- yeah right, I'm gonna opt for THAT! I have a separate post in general section about wheel noise after new tires that turned out to be brake pads worn to nothing (which ironically DIDN'T fail the inspection...go figure). Another station (after another $16) may not have failed me for the tie rods but certainly would have for the brakes!

So, since I was in the wheel well anyway for the brakes I just replaced the inner and outer tie rods, too. The inner did seem to have a little looseness to it when I got it apart but I sure couldn't see the tire move -- and certainly not the 1/4" the regulations require before it fails. oh well...

Thanks to several great posts here, was a pretty easy job though. Only problem is that now my steering wheel is cockeyed. Will the alignment fix this? I think I got the new tie rods pretty close to the old ones because on a test drive I don't notice any problems such as vibration or pulling. Another thread on the subject says it's usually an extra fee to straighten the steering wheel when an alignment is done. What did I do wrong to take the steering wheel off center anyway?

thanks, ggaarryy

You either screwed the tie rod ends on too much or not enough. That would cause the steering wheel to be off center.

When you get an alignment, they make sure the steering wheel is straight and go from there.

thanks. Took it in for alignment...yes, steering wheel was straightened BUT:

the mechanic led me back to the car and said 'man are you lucky...when we were adjusting one side, the inner tie rod on the other side just fell off!!!" (drove over fine). Charged me $80 to basically screw it back on and I just didn't feel like arguing after everything else I've gone through with this inspection.

Now, I KNOW I tightend both of the inners snug and made sure the metal washer was snug,too. Is there something procedurally I might have done wrong to know for the next time like needing to hold one side with a wrench while the other inner is screwed in...or do you think this shop is just soaking me because I didn't get any of the work they failed me for done there?

thanks, ggaarry

If you tightened the inner tie rod on to the rack and bent the tabs on the metal lock washer correctly, there should theoretically be no way for it to unthread it self that far. Also note that if the inner tie rod was unthreaded to the point of falling off, you would have serious toe-in that you should have felt driving it over there.

When I installed my Pro-kits and Ingalls camber kits I took it to a local shop to have it aligned, and they told me it was too low and my car was a liability to put on the rack. So I had to head back, take the front bumper off, and go back. Then they told me the driver's side inner tie rod was loose and they quoted me something around 300.00 to do it. I drove back again, went to Auto-zone and bought the new tie rod for 20.00, got the specialty tool from NAPA for 50, and changed it in less than 45 minutes. Went back again and finally got the alignment done.

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2012 2500HD LML

uh oh...I didn't bend the metal tabs on the lock washer because they seemed to fit back in and not turn the way they were. Do you think I need to take it all apart again to make sure they are on right?

thanks, ggaarryy

What do you mean it fit? The inner tie rod should not be able to turn in or out due to the metal washer that has a tang on it is bent forward (outboard towards the hub) around the inner tie rod.

Performing the removal/assembly should basically be this:
-remove all outer related parts
-use a punch or flathead to gently bent the tabs of the washer inboard.
-unthread and remove inner tie rod
-remove washer if new tie rod came with new washer
-slide on new washer
-thread on new inner tie rod and torque down
-(sometimes tricky due to space constraints) bend washer @2 places outboard over the tie rod.
-reinstall related parts and perform alignment

I am not a fan of reusing parts, especially simple things like a lock washer, but if your new chassis part did not come with it you have no other choice.

I do not mean to be redundant, but if you were able to remove the old tie rod without manipulating the lock washer, then the washer was not doing its job. And your new inner tie rod will back out eventually if it was not installed correctly.

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2012 2500HD LML