OK, I've been running into a slew of issues lately with my MS. I am currently running the v2.2 w/ 29v.
First off Terry, I completely agree with you that our stock ECU constantly adapting to the configuration of the MS settings. My car hasn't run right ever since I put the MS on my car over a year ago. I've put a lot of money to get this working and running smoothly, with no success.
Right now I have a question for all MS users: In your constants settings, are you running "Alternating" or Simutaneous"?
I have a few friends here that are both running Alternating, and I am running Simutaneous. One has a V3 and the other has the v2.2 like myself. The biggest difference I notice is in the Tuning screen on the 3D screen of the VETable. When using the ALT setting it appears to keep that 3d screen pretty flat, but mine is very mountainous.
Which now leads me to the issues I am having now.
After my car warms up it runs pretty lean at idle, and it makes the engine sound really ruff. Also my car is idle surging between 1k and 1500 when I let off the gas to come to a stop. Once I come to a complete stop it stops. Its seems as the stock ECU is playing yet another roll in this issue. Also it seems as though, my settings never seem hold true for very long. What I mean by that is I could get a solid tune on my car, and in about 2 weeks it seems to fall out of tune, or the stock ECU has adapted enough to make it seem that way.
Its getting very frustrating, since I've put so much money and time to get this running some what solid/smooth. My car hasn't run remotely smooth since I've installed this MS.
I really need all the help I can get, I am so close to just buying a portfueler. Please help me!
#3051, "RE: General Questions" In response to Reply # 1
I don't thinks its too much for me! I think its more or less the fact that I've been running Simultaneous this whole time and not alternating.
I tried taking Curtis's msq (BlackMagic) here on the board who is running the exact same setup as I besides the WBO2 sensor, and I just changed my EGO switch point and selected the LC-1 I am using in the configurator as that is the only thing that differs for the WB settings. And it didn't like it at all.
I will try and get it running in Alternating then...its my new goal/mission.
#3052, "RE: General Questions" In response to Reply # 2
Terry could you send me your most recent MSQ to goodgrieff_99@yahoo.com? I want to compare settings from what you and Curtis have and I can start plugging away from there.
#3054, "RE: General Questions" In response to Reply # 3
I will send you the newest one I use. What size injector are you running?
Not to much for you huh? Good answer, hang in there! Or just ship the car to Illinois.
Curtis should not be running simultaneous either unless he changed it. I dont know why he would have done that.
Also go into the Constants page and make sure the Barometric correction is turned "OFF". You have the 3 bar sensor if I recall and it doesnt work right with the correction turned on.
#3057, "RE: General Questions" In response to Reply # 4
Run 2 squirts alternating. I've found out that when running fuel AND ignition with the MS, that the stock ECU freaks out a bit and will start to surge a bit with the Idle Air control valve..With so many things disconnected from the stock ECU, it for some reason has a hard time keeping a steady IAC signal. My only solution was to remove the IAC and block off the IAC port in the throttle body. I then used the throttle stop screw to adjust my warm idle speed. It works well, but when the engine is cold, you have to use the gas pedal a little bit to start it, and keep it running for 20-30 seconds till some heat builds up in the engine. If it's running lean at idle, try richening it up in the idle bins, and DO NOT run closed loop idle off of the 02 sensor. The engine runs much smoother when its in the 13 AFR range rather than 14.7:1..
I have found a abnormality in the air density correction factor in the code, at leat i believe so, that when the IAT rises up in temps, it pulls out too much fuel..There is a table for correcting this, but that may be a bit too much to delve into at this point. You have to run closed loop idle control, and adjust that table till the o2 sensor correction is always within 5% adjustment, all while adjusting that table. Maybe look into that when you get everything else taken care of and understood.
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#3060, "RE: General Questions" In response to Reply # 7
I sent it out this morning. Jeremy, are you runnign spark control already? If so shoot Dino and Doug a PM. both of them have achieved a idle without the surge while still allowing the ECU to control the IAC.
I still have yet to set up my spark....too busy MS kits or shit around the house.
#3063, "RE: General Questions" In response to Reply # 9
OK well I got the car running last night using Alternating and it got rid of the idle surge and bucking at low rpms I was experiencing.
I now have a bucking at about 5400rpms. Plus I also found out my 4th gear is stretched out as well, while on my tuning run last night, but that is a different subject.
I can send the data log of the bucking if anyone might want to take a look at it.
Also Terry, I will check my setting against yours once you send me the MSQ file.
Then once I get that bucking under order and get a good tune on my car, I will try what xtremeRS suggested with the IAT.
Only thing I am weary about with that is, won't it start to effect my cyclinder walls after a while if I have to hold my foot on the gas for 20-30 seconds while it warms up? I mean I never touch the gas or move the car until my car is 100% warmed up ever since I rebuilt it. I think holding your foot on the gas would defeat the purpose of letting it warm up and the rings to seal good before applying stress to it. By reving when its at its coldest state would cause the pistons to slap about a lot.
