Hey, I am planning on going turbo real soon (HRC Stage2 w/Big FMIC), i got about 2700$ saved up and my next pay check should cover the rest. I am so stoked.

I just had a quick question about parts. Now i know HRC makes a good kit. But are there any parts I should tell them to not include and buy elsewhere (for higher quality or more functionality)? BOV, Manifolds, Etc? I would rather spend the few extra dollars early instead of having to replace expensive parts.

And also is there anything i should install along with the kit that the kit may not include? I am already planning on not purchasing HRC's Gauges and Gauge Pillar and replacing them possibly with an Autometer Gauge bezel, EGT, AF Meter and Boost gauge. You can see by my list of mods below what little i have done.

I have already performed a compression test which turned out great, and I will replace the plugs with one heat range colder than stock plugs, are there any other pre-turbo adjustments/tests i should do? I would like to install a UDP real soon, should i do that before i get the turbo installed (would turbo interfere with UDP installation)?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. $3300 is a lot of money for a poor college kid like me and i would like to spend it all very carefully.

Kelly

- 97 Eclipse GS -
AEM Cold Air | Tanabe GPower Medallion | Magnecore Wires | Konig Villain 18x8s | Yokohoma Paradas | Tokico Premium Springs/Struts | F&R Stut Braces | Rear GST Disc Brakes and GST Sway Bar | Tint/Clear Corners/Big Stereo/Etc | Completely Rebuilt

Seems like you have it all thought out pretty well. You may want another BOV for appearance or sound but truth be known the 1G and 3000GT BOV work as good or better than all those $200 BOVs (which I dont know how many stories of diaphrams breaking and sticking, problems adjusting ect). Of course thats not gonna stop me from getting a TurboXS type H as soon as I can afford to. Gap the plugs at .032" or so. If there was one part I would change or modify is the downpipe. Have a muffler shop make a real downpipe out of the top half provided (you dont want to use half of the stock downpipe do you?)

Since I cant use photopoint IMAGINE THIS:
Star turbo with E-trim and HKS BOV
Starion FMIC/2.5" piping
Joe P MBC
Apexi SuperAFC
Ross Pistons/total seal rings
Ported and matched intake manifold
AFX 55mm TB, FMM and UDP
2.5" downpipe back exh/Hayame muffler
Crane wires/Denso Iridium plugs
Centerforce DF clutch
KYB AGX struts/ST springs, UPR FSB, F&R camber kits
17" ADR lightnings/toyo FZ4 215/45/17
97' eclipse front end/projectors
Autometer gauges
Panasonic head unit/ Sony X-over
MB Quarts all around/JL stealth sub
Hifonics/MTX Thunder amps
XX brand alarm/Varad hyper green led

Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

I am also in the same position as you, I have the exact amount of money saved up. By my next check I'm also going Turbo.

I was thinking of purchasing the eliminator 3" downpipe that HRC provides. They told me it costs $325 extra whit or without kit. Would this be a good idea? Would it be a waste of money knowing the kit comes with a semi/downpipe? Would it be better to take the semi/downpipe to a muffler shop? Please hgelp me out guys.

99 Eclipse GS
obx Air Intake/Tanabe 3" Racing Medallion Exhaust/Magnacore wires/

HRC kit that is. whenever that settlement check comes in, I'll be in the market for a HRC stage one. I already have the SMIC upgrade that I bought from Sal (thanx Sal), blitz BOV, EBC, Blitz timer.
Perhaps we can get Hahn to give us a better deal if we all buy at the same time. What do you two think?

kaiser

Yeah that sounds good,

Where are you guys located? The reason I ask is that I know someone in Phoenix, Az. that can get us the Turbo kits almost at dealers cost(20or15% off im not sure). But the only thing is that he said he could only do it he orders at least 2 from HRC. It could be a neon turbo kit, it doesnt matter what turbosystem.

Let me know what you guys think.

99 Eclipse GS
obx Air Intake/Tanabe 3" Racing Medallion Exhaust/Magnacore wires/

I am in tacoma washington. i will be ready to buy probably around august 15th.

Kelly

- 97 Eclipse GS -
AEM Cold Air | Tanabe GPower Medallion | Magnecore Wires | Konig Villain 18x8s | Yokohoma Paradas | Tokico Premium Springs/Struts | F&R Stut Braces | Rear GST Disc Brakes and Sway Bar | Tint/Clear Corners/Big Stereo/Etc | Completely Rebuilt

Very good question.



If you are serious about modding your car more later (and it looks like it), I would suggest getting straight to the point with a few things. It's a smart move getting the FMIC (no point getting the sidemount and switching later).

In this case, if you can afford it, also go straight for the 3" downpipe.

The UDP does not interfere with the turbo kit at all.

Apart from that an AFC would be very useful too...

Guy
RS_Guy

"If I wanted a 4G63, I'd have bought an EVO"



http://www.GTuned.com

About the 3" downpipe. I believe my exhuast is a 2.5" catback, and i am using the stock cat so will a 3" downpipe be that useful? If i decide to go for the 3" downpipe should i get the HRC or is there another brand that i can get cheaper? and what about a flex section, i have read some about that. will i need one?

Kelly

- 97 Eclipse GS -
AEM Cold Air | Tanabe GPower Medallion | Magnecore Wires | Konig Villain 18x8s | Yokohoma Paradas | Tokico Premium Springs/Struts | F&R Stut Braces | Rear GST Disc Brakes and Sway Bar | Tint/Clear Corners/Big Stereo/Etc | Completely Rebuilt

The 3" downpipe by HRC (as far as I know - I have one) will not bolt onto the stock cat. The size of the inlet hole on the cat is too small..

However, should you be determined to do something about it, you can always replace the cat with a downsizing pipe that will mate your 3" DP to the 2.5" exhaust. And, yes ultimately a 3" DP to a 2.5" Exhaust is probably better than the 2.25" DP to the 2.5" Exhaust.

A flex-section is basically a piece of the downpipe that "flexes". i.e. it can bend *without* breaking. It looks like accordion piping and it is usually covered with a thick metal mesh.

The flex-section is crucial to have because when your engine moves about (and it does) it will mean that the flex section will bend and cancel out the movement and so the DP won't break.

The 3" DP from Hahn has a flex-section built into it.

If you choose to not get the downpipe (for whatever reason), don't worry, 'coz you'll still have a flex section on the stage 2 setup (it uses part of your stock header, and your stock header does have the flex section from factory).

Guy
RS_Guy

"If I wanted a 4G63, I'd have bought an EVO"



http://www.GTuned.com

Thanks for the info, I am seriously thinking about getting the downpipe now cuz i will probably upgrade it later.

when i bring the kit to the shop they will be able to get a hold of a downsize pipe right? or should i buy one and give it to em (probably be cheaper knowing how shops charge)

anyways again thanks

Kelly

- 97 Eclipse GS -
AEM Cold Air | Tanabe GPower Medallion | Magnecore Wires | Konig Villain 18x8s | Yokohoma Paradas | Tokico Premium Springs/Struts | F&R Stut Braces | Rear GST Disc Brakes and Sway Bar | Tint/Clear Corners/Big Stereo/Etc | Completely Rebuilt