Are these worth getting?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLUE-ALUMINUM-RACE-RACING-TURBO-ENGINE-OIL-LINE-CATCH-RESERVOIR-CAN-TANK-CAP-/280802546827?_trksid=p4012.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DUPI.GIROS%252BPI.WATCH%26its%3DI%252BC%252BS%26itu%3DUCI%252BUCC%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D230771594919%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7515375503526587396#ht_2270wt_1002

I would say yes it is worth buying if you plumb it in correctly. A lot of people running higher boost levels will disconnect the stock PCV valve (it leaks under high boost and creates crankcase pressure) and run the valve cover port to the catch can and then a breather on the other side. At the moment I just run a hose down to the ground off the valve cover but I plan on buying one before I auto x it this year.

Any catch can worth buying will have internal baffles and some type of mesh filter.

A lot of ebay specials are just hollow canisters.

I used to run these w/ success, but there are other options as well.

http://www.saikoumichi.com/

Ebay one looks like the same type the this guy used:

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-tos-installations/485682-how-another-diy-catch-can-mod-dual-baffles-extended-inlet-tube.html

Not sure how much money he really saved, but it was an interesting read.

Edit: Found another interesting article here:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?150325-Oil-catch-can-research-the-not-so-baffling-importance-of-baffling

Guy used a wet dry vac and water sprayer to test an ebay catch can with and without cheap baffling to see what difference it actually makes.

Originally posted by bluespunk
Ebay one looks like the same type the this guy used: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-tos-installations/485682-how-another-diy-catch-can-mod-dual-baffles-extended-inlet-tube.html Not sure how much money he really saved, but it was an interesting read. Edit: Found another interesting article here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?150325-Oil-catch-can-research-the-not-so-baffling-importance-of-baffling Guy used a wet dry vac and water sprayer to test an ebay catch can with and without cheap baffling to see what difference it actually makes.

That shows you exactly why you want a catch can with baffles. If moneys tight then go with the ebay one at put some extra material inside like the first link you posted, as it seems easier to unscrew the top then cutting it in half lol
IMO: I dont even use one. I just run rubber tubing from the valve cover down facing under the car to relieve any pressure and oil vapor out.

Thanks for the good info guys. I'll give it a read shortly.

Originally posted by Gruff511
That shows you exactly why you want a catch can with baffles. If moneys tight then go with the ebay one at put some extra material inside like the first link you posted, as it seems easier to unscrew the top then cutting it in half lol IMO: I dont even use one. I just run rubber tubing from the valve cover down facing under the car to relieve any pressure and oil vapor out.

That works fine but is frowned upon at tracks, so if you plan to race your car then you should invest in a catch can. And if you are getting a lot of oil collecting in it I have seen some cars that run the catch can drain back to the oil pan.

One potential issue with the catch can draining back into the oil pan is that you are re-introducing condensated crank case vapor mixed in the oil. (IE: sludge) "I" would'nt do that :P

Originally posted by SilvrEclips
That works fine but is frowned upon at tracks, so if you plan to race your car then you should invest in a catch can. And if you are getting a lot of oil collecting in it I have seen some cars that run the catch can drain back to the oil pan.

Yes of course if your on a track then you wouldn't want to be dumping any excess oil onto the track but mines is a DD.
And imo I wouldn't want to recirculate the oil back into the oil pan just because.

I ordered an ebay catch can that I plan to mod using the links provided (thanks for those). I was planning on running one catch can and then installing a breather filter on the valve cover. Does that sound like a good idea? If I do this, I'm a little confused about where the PCV fits into this. Any help?

Out of pcv into sealed catch can (no vent or breather) into intake pipe or intake. If the catch can is an oil separater this will work fine(as long as the pcv works good) you may want to get an upgraded pcv. A lot of ppl eliminate the pcv and that works for most applications.

Originally posted by PinkPixi
Out of pcv into sealed catch can (no vent or breather) into intake pipe or intake. If the catch can is an oil separater this will work fine(as long as the pcv works good) you may want to get an upgraded pcv. A lot of ppl eliminate the pcv and that works for most applications.

Ok. So then I can just put a breather filter on the other side of the valve cover, right?

I bought this catch can and already modded it by inserting steel wool as a baffle. I also extended one of the connections internally by adding a tube that travels to the bottom of the tank. This way the longer tube is used as an inlet, depositing any oil in the bottom of the reservoir and the outlet is at the top.... but which side should the "inlet" be connected to.

yes, you can put a breather on the other one.

OR

Set up a second catch can system with the draw being on the air intake in front of the turbo.

Either way is fine.

make sure the long tube you added has relief holes higher up than the bottom, or else if the can ever has enough oil that the bottom of the tube is submerged, you'll be sucking straight oil.

Originally posted by RyaN95i4
make sure the long tube you added has relief holes higher up than the bottom, or else if the can ever has enough oil that the bottom of the tube is submerged, you'll be sucking straight oil.

I thought the point was to have the oil/air mix enter the can via the long tube (inlet) and then since there is no tube on the outlet side only air would exit (unless of course the can is completely full of oil). Am I missing something? Does the air flow both directions? I thought the check valve prevented that.

Put relief holes in the inlet tube like in the DIY and you'll be good. The inlet connects to the valve cover the outlet goes to the intake mani with a check valve. Or run it straight to the Turbo inlet without a check valve.

The relief holes would actually allow oil to be pulled "closer" to the return line. (bad idea)

With the can under vacuum the oil will try to follow the air through the holes and toward the the return line.

The stainless scrubbing pads will help to curb this effect until it gets coated with oil, then it will actually promote the oil transfer by holding the oil that much closer to the return line. (clean it once in a while)



The vacuum will pull the air out of that can No matter how high the oil level gets.(assuming that the can is not FULL of oil)

Think of a water bong and how they work.



Baffles would be alot more effeciant at seperating the oil from the air.

Thanks for taking the time to make those illustrations. That's what I was thinking too as far as the relief holes go. Great discussion everyone!

windows paint lol