When I pull the throttle cable to rev the engine, I see exhaust coming from the inside-center/compressor side of the turbo... there's no shaft play that I can detect, seems fine to me (outside of exhaust leak).

Is there RTV or something on the compressor housing to keep it air tight (quick & easy), or are the o-rings in the center section it? Am I looking at a rebuild, or should I just consider upgrading to the S20G? I've read Corbin's writeup, how long would it take someone (first time) to rebuild it themselves?

S16G @ 20lbs w/ 440's, SFMU, and SAFC
- J

When you say compressor housing, do you really mean turbine housing? If you have exhaust coming out of the compressor housing seal, that is definitely an issue. If you have exhaust leaking out between the turbine housing and center section, that is a little less of an issue. I think you'll find that the connection between the turbine housing and center section is like a V-band (machined surfaces are clamped together without any gasket). You might expect a little leakage when cold, but nothing detectable when hot. Perhaps the turbine housing is not tight to the center section because of debris or damage. perhaps the clamp is loose and let the center section vibrate away from the turbine housing. You would probably want to separate that joint to investigate. If you are lazy, you could probably leave the turbine housing bolted to the exhaust manifold.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

I mean the compressor housing aka intake side of the turbo, on the inside/center-section half (not airfilter side)... now, having said that, I don't know that it's coming out of the compressor housing seal either. Everything is so very well compact (and the gas moves so quickly), it could very well be shooting out the vclamp in the direction of the compressor housing, and then being deflected out and around. All I know is that it is coming somewhere from the center section.

The turbo (as a whole) is very slowly but surely covering my newly powdercoated valve cover black w/ exhaust (the portion located right above the turbo that is). Otherwise, the turbo is functioning perfectly fine, and b00sts happily. If I've got to take it completely off (no prob being lazy if I knew better how it dis/assembles), I guess I mayse well rebuild it in the process. I'm assuming I can't just loosen the vclamp, give it a nice hard shove and clamp it down again.

- J

Well, nobody seems to have a S16G/S20G for sale on the boards here atm (unfortunately), so I've got basically three choices...

1.) Pay $500 to HRC and upgrade to S20G
2.) Pay $188 to HRC and rebuild myself
3.) Find cheaper rebuild kit somewhere else

...If I've got to spend nearly $200 on a rebuild kit: my strong inclination is to just upgrade to the S20G, but that's a bit more than I was looking to spend. Cheapest place I found a full TD05/06 superback rebuild kit was G-Pop for $134 (which is basically $50 less).

1.) Will this rebuild kit work, or do I really need the HRC/Mitsu?
2.) What is this TD05/06 Heatshield? can we use it? do we want to use it? (does it actually work)

See here...
http://gpopshop.com/rebuild-kitsmitsubishi-rebuild-kits
- J

Hahn is doing a price match now, if the product is similar enough(too them) then they will price match. Its worth a shot to send that price for the complete "g pop" kit and see if they'll come down on their price.

Originally posted by J
I'm assuming I can't just loosen the vclamp, give it a nice hard shove and clamp it down again.

That is pretty much what I'm suggesting. Take the clamp off and see if there is a gap between the center section and turbine housing. If there is any gap, start rotating and wiggling the center section to loosen it (also remove the wastegate actuator). Carefully work the center section off and pull it out of the car. Clean the mating surfaces on both the turbine housing and center section. Inspect for damage. If everything looks OK, tap the center section back onto the turbine housing as tight as possible (dead blow hammer is good for this). Rotate the center section so that the wastegate actuator lines up correctly and put the clamp back on the turbine housing. That might just do it.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki