When ever I try to hold my rpms at 2k or 2.5k it will bounce up and down it will not stay there. It either want to keep going up or will bounce up and down. Is this a sensor or what?It only does it in neutral or when the clutch is in. I have a 95tsi awd.

throttle position sensor or maybe ISC motor?

Originally posted by Hult250R
throttle position sensor or maybe ISC motor?

Alright I fixed the idle problem. I removed the safc-2 and it will hold rpms fine now without bouncing. But it still failed emissions because of it running rich and high carbon deposits. Im going to check/replace the spark plugs and recirculate the bov. I dont know anything about the safc-2 but I bought the car and it was already installed and it runs crapy with it off but wont hold rpms with it on. The injector are stock it just has a aftermarket afpr and a walbro 255.

Originally posted by eclipseman1999

Originally posted by Hult250R throttle position sensor or maybe ISC motor?

Alright I fixed the idle problem. I removed the safc-2 and it will hold rpms fine now without bouncing. But it still failed emissions because of it running rich and high carbon deposits. Im going to check/replace the spark plugs and recirculate the bov. I dont know anything about the safc-2 but I bought the car and it was already installed and it runs crapy with it off but wont hold rpms with it on. The injector are stock it just has a aftermarket afpr and a walbro 255.

ummm... yeah. You're VTA and you wonder why you're running rich? :rolleyes
You don't need any fuel control with stock injectors either.
edit: if you search for "venting to atmosphere" you'll find that VTA alone will cause idle problems and rich conditions...

Originally posted by eclipzGST

Originally posted by eclipseman1999

Originally posted by Hult250R throttle position sensor or maybe ISC motor?

Alright I fixed the idle problem. I removed the safc-2 and it will hold rpms fine now without bouncing. But it still failed emissions because of it running rich and high carbon deposits. Im going to check/replace the spark plugs and recirculate the bov. I dont know anything about the safc-2 but I bought the car and it was already installed and it runs crapy with it off but wont hold rpms with it on. The injector are stock it just has a aftermarket afpr and a walbro 255.

ummm... yeah. You're VTA and you wonder why you're running rich? :rolleyes You don't need any fuel control with stock injectors either. edit: if you search for "venting to atmosphere" you'll find that VTA alone will cause idle problems and rich conditions...

I bought the car like that I know about venting to the atmosphere. The guy put the stock injectors and turbo back on when I bought it but the afpr is still on and it has a walbro 255. That is why Im asking if fuel pressure should be the same even with a 255. Also he had a safc-2 hooked up to the car with crappy tune, if I just disconnect it will it go back to stock or do I have to do something to the safc first?

Originally posted by eclipseman1999 I just disconnect it will it go back to stock or do I have to do something to the safc first?

There's one wire that gets cut when installing a SAFC, so you can't just unplug the harness. You have to reconnect the wire that was cut. I believe it's a pink wire. Make sure when you solder the wire after you reconnect it.
Once that is done, you'll be using the true stock fuel trims. What the SAFC does is takes the ECU's signal and modifies it to give a false reading (richer or leaner) to make up for bigger injectors or more or less boost.

Originally posted by eclipzGST

Originally posted by eclipseman1999 I just disconnect it will it go back to stock or do I have to do something to the safc first?

There's one wire that gets cut when installing a SAFC, so you can't just unplug the harness. You have to reconnect the wire that was cut. I believe it's a pink wire. Make sure when you solder the wire after you reconnect it. Once that is done, you'll be using the true stock fuel trims. What the SAFC does is takes the ECU's signal and modifies it to give a false reading (richer or leaner) to make up for bigger injectors or more or less boost.

Alright I looked underneath in the car where the safc connects to the ecu and there are allot of wires connected to the ecu. The pink one on the safc is connected to a green one on the ecu. I cant figure out how to turn the settings all to zero on the safc so I want to just disconnect it. is there a easier way to get to the ecu harness? And my fuel pressure wont go lower than 46psi with the vac line off or on it stays the same. I can make it go higher with the fpr but now any lower that 46.

Ok, ALL of the wires from the S-AFC to the ECU harness except 2 are just tapped into uncut wires. Disconnect all of them. Then find the wires that are tapped to the cut one, disconnect the safc wires and reconnect the cut wire that's left.

Originally posted by eclipzGST
Ok, ALL of the wires from the S-AFC to the ECU harness except 2 are just tapped into uncut wires. Disconnect all of them. Then find the wires that are tapped to the cut one, disconnect the safc wires and reconnect the cut wire that's left.

ok got that. Is there a way to access the ecu better? Do the yellow plugs that have the wire connected to the ecu come out?

Originally posted by eclipseman1999

Originally posted by eclipzGST Ok, ALL of the wires from the S-AFC to the ECU harness except 2 are just tapped into uncut wires. Disconnect all of them. Then find the wires that are tapped to the cut one, disconnect the safc wires and reconnect the cut wire that's left.

ok got that. Is there a way to access the ecu better? Do the yellow plugs that have the wire connected to the ecu come out?

Yes. And yes.
Take the side panels off the console, remove the bolts holding in the ECU and unplug the harnesses. They're just the regular clip-on jobs where you press down the center to release.

Originally posted by eclipzGST

Originally posted by eclipseman1999

Originally posted by eclipzGST Ok, ALL of the wires from the S-AFC to the ECU harness except 2 are just tapped into uncut wires. Disconnect all of them. Then find the wires that are tapped to the cut one, disconnect the safc wires and reconnect the cut wire that's left.

ok got that. Is there a way to access the ecu better? Do the yellow plugs that have the wire connected to the ecu come out?

Yes. And yes. Take the side panels off the console, remove the bolts holding in the ECU and unplug the harnesses. They're just the regular clip-on jobs where you press down the center to release.

Alright I need your help again. I found the blue wire with the yellow stripes that was cut and had the pink wire tapped into it. I removed it and reconnected the other half back together. I cut all the other wires from the safc and it still runs like crap at idle. Do you know what color the other wire is that is suppost to be cut when connecting the safc? I looked but the only one that was actually cut that I could see was the blue with yellow stripes. Also can a bad upstream o2 sensor make it run that bad?

slightly off topic, so apologies. but i need to know what i'm about to ask and i can't see creating a new thread for it. where is the ecu in the turbo model eclipses? i have to solder in a safc2 this weekend and would like to know.

Originally posted by hookduphatch
slightly off topic, so apologies. but i need to know what i'm about to ask and i can't see creating a new thread for it. where is the ecu in the turbo model eclipses? i have to solder in a safc2 this weekend and would like to know.

In the console behind the radio. Pull the sides off and you'll have access to it.

Originally posted by eclipseman1999

Originally posted by eclipzGST

Originally posted by eclipseman1999

Originally posted by eclipzGST Ok, ALL of the wires from the S-AFC to the ECU harness except 2 are just tapped into uncut wires. Disconnect all of them. Then find the wires that are tapped to the cut one, disconnect the safc wires and reconnect the cut wire that's left.

ok got that. Is there a way to access the ecu better? Do the yellow plugs that have the wire connected to the ecu come out?

Yes. And yes. Take the side panels off the console, remove the bolts holding in the ECU and unplug the harnesses. They're just the regular clip-on jobs where you press down the center to release.

Alright I need your help again. I found the blue wire with the yellow stripes that was cut and had the pink wire tapped into it. I removed it and reconnected the other half back together. I cut all the other wires from the safc and it still runs like crap at idle. Do you know what color the other wire is that is suppost to be cut when connecting the safc? I looked but the only one that was actually cut that I could see was the blue with yellow stripes. Also can a bad upstream o2 sensor make it run that bad?

Are your plugs properly gapped?
Are all cyl getting fuel and/or spark?
Does it run ok besides at idle?
MAS plugged in good?
Recirculate your BOV like it should be?
Vaccuum hoses all good and no leaks?....

yes to all of those except for it runs like crap at idle and trying to drive it. Is there any other wire that are cut that you know off when hooking up the safc besides the blue one?

nope.
Did you find any others when you disconnected it?

have you tried swapping out the mas?

Alright it idles fine now. when I drive it a barley give it gas its fine but as soon as you step on it or floor it, it starts poping and wont accelerate at all. I put new spark plugs it but Im wondering if they gave me the wrong ones. Is there any other problems that would cause this because it only does it when you try to accelerated. It wont build boost it just starts popping like crazy and wont speed up.

Originally posted by eclipseman1999
Alright it idles fine now. when I drive it a barley give it gas its fine but as soon as you step on it or floor it, it starts poping and wont accelerate at all. I put new spark plugs it but Im wondering if they gave me the wrong ones. Is there any other problems that would cause this because it only does it when you try to accelerated. It wont build boost it just starts popping like crazy and wont speed up.

you have a HUGE boost leak.

^^^^^^^^^^

Originally posted by eclipzGST

Originally posted by eclipseman1999 Alright it idles fine now. when I drive it a barley give it gas its fine but as soon as you step on it or floor it, it starts poping and wont accelerate at all. I put new spark plugs it but Im wondering if they gave me the wrong ones. Is there any other problems that would cause this because it only does it when you try to accelerated. It wont build boost it just starts popping like crazy and wont speed up.

you have a HUGE boost leak.

Hahaha, right when I read, "when I give it alot of gas it just starts popping..." I immediately thought the same thing.

Your turbo is trying to pressurize air into the intake, except somewhere there is an alternate route, so in turn the air is not pressurizing smoothly/correctly, giving you a sweet ass backfire and shitty acceleration. VFAQ.com will set you free.

after installing my hard piping kit last weekend, mine ran fine for maybe two days. now i too have a huge ass boost leak. going to fix tomorrow. but my car is having the exact same symptoms as yours.