hey pips whats up
alright for a while i have been working on m six bolt swap and last week i have finally finished..but low and behold i had oil leakeage problems. I fixed the oil leaks yesterday and got it running...sort of.
today i gave it a shot again at fixing the idle speed and setting the ignition timing..

well i think i got the timing done however i have some questions..
when i grounded the brown connector on the firewall and hooked up my timing light the BTDC was set at 0 so i fixed that and i moved it to 5 like it says on the book..however when i unhooked the brown connector from ground and rechecked the timing the dot was moving all over the place is this normal or does it have to always be at 5?

also i havent being able to get a steady idle speed..here is what i have done so far.
1. blocked the EGR ( helped a bit)
2. checked the ISC and it checked out good
3. checked my vacum hoses and rounting like 5 times ( all was good)
4. checked that all to intake mani bolts where torqued to spec
5. BISS in place and so is the cap.
6. will recheck spark plug gap and plug wires tomorrow..

anyways after all that was done i still couldnt get a steady idle speed and when ever i reved the engine it dies..as if the ecu wasnt even trying to catch the rpms..WTF

what else can i do to fix this problem

and one more thing is it normal for the engine to be freakingly hot when its running(i mean like the valve cover gets so hot that if you touch it you may get 1st degree burn:D , or cook some eggs on the valve cover)
The thermostat checks out fine(its new) all my cooling sensors are good and the fan works.
so is it normal??
thanks guys

PS.if it sounds familiar ..yes i did post it on dsmtuners.com cause ineed as much help as i can get...

thanks for the space

Are the engine temps hot, or just the engine itself? You have to remember that it is an engine. They get hot :) The valve cover will burn you if you touch it.

How much is the "timing dot" moving around? If it is roughly in the same area (like within an inch), it should be okay.

For the idle, how does it sound? Like idle surge? Slow up and down sounds? Need a little more info there. :)

thanks dude..ok
yes just gets hot ..i found out that the fan wasnt turning on cause i had the sensor inthe wrong place(after the thermostat instead of behind it) so i switched it and buala..it works now..

ok as for my idle it doesnt surge in the 1200 to 1600 range, it sputters alot, the engine shakes too much(could it be cause i have prothane enginemounts in the back and front and i have removed the b-shafts), it idles around 1000 and 200 close to stalling, whenever i rev the motor and let off the gas it will stall at times and other times it will hold at 200ish and go up to 1000.

so far i have done the following
1. Blocked the EGR= helped a bit
2. Checked the IAC= good
3. Bought a new BISS and o-ring= helped control idle and keep it between 200 and 1000
4. Checked all my vacum lines= ok
5. checked resistance on injectors, TPS, coilpack, and rechecked my settings(using method2 of RRE on the CAS installation)
everything seems to be ok
however i steel hear a sort of whining noise cant really tell if its a vacum leak or what. Well as i spent all night serching for answers in dsmtuners i came across a thread that said something about the brakebooster vacum line...it said that if there is a leak of some sort it will make the engine idle much like my car is doing now. Iwill check tomorrow by unpluging the hose from the intake and blocking the nipple with my finger---im hoping this will be it.

Last nite i took it for a spin i went as fast as 60 and drove it around for ike 30 min. and i tell you that aside from the constant stalling and rattling from all the stuff and tools inside it feels like a beast, it pulls strong and boy does it feel good to boost (12psi) my gosh it was awsome..
sorry to make it so long jeff..but im desperate and want to fix my gride..
thanks a bunch man
isaias carrillo