Well the megasquirt got installed this weekend! It's still a little rough, needs a lot more tuning, but it's in and it runs! I'm really excited about it. Thanks Terry for building the board, started up just fine. Can't wait to start tuning for some major boost!

By the way the portfueler will be for sale in a couple of days.

Nice to hear...what's your setup?

I got the MS-I V2.2 with the flyback board and the VB921's for spark control. And I'm running low impedance PTE 780cc injectors.

I know that the analogue output on the zeitronix wideband is non-linear, however I was reading the directions on the zeitronix site and it says that there is a linear output as well.

"Linear Wideband Output (Purple Wire)
Zt-2s rev11 and later are equipped with analog wideband output activated through the
ZDL software V 2.0.8 or later by selecting 0-5V Linear Wideband Output from the Settings
menu. The narrowband output (purple wire) becomes the Linear Wideband Output."

So if we hook the MS up to this wire and change the configuration in MS I'm assuming that us people with zeitronix will finally be able to read actual AFR in the target AF tables. Anyone tried it? I think you have to download the new software from their website first though.

I think you actually need to have the new version, depending on when you purchased the unit itself. Software updates are always available online, but that doesn't change the hardware you have.

Yea I was just about to post up, you have to have bought it after sept. 1 2006 so that rules me out.

This morning the car would not even start, the coolant temp was a little less than 40 degrees. I'm assuming it's not getting enough fuel. From fully cold it takes about 10 cranks to get it started usually but today it just wouldn't go. Someone take a look at my settings and tell me if you did something differently or if something is way off. Sometimes it will crank and start to go to maybe 2000 and immediately die off, sometimes it won't even start up with the crank, other times it might only catch and hop up to 400 or 500 rpms, so I'm guessing there is something wrong with the cranking settings and the ASE settings. And I tried having my foot flat on the floor as well. I've searched through here and tried a couple things xtremers said about richening up the values of ASE to over 100% and if that didn't work using a fixed MAP with my idle MAP value.

I'm using low-z 780cc injectors

Here are some screen shots

Cranking settings


Normal ASE settings


Fixed MAP ASE settings


Someone please tell me I just accidently did something horribly wrong. Besides this starting issue the car runs perfectly fine.

you didnt do anything wrong, its a part of the tuning process. I have never tuned that cold so what you have is a linear slope off the 60 and 80 degree points.

The cranking numbers are to get the car to initially fire. Once it fires the afterstart enrichment takes ofer to keep it moving. Then the warmup kicks in. These numbers will very depending on your ve table and req fuel.

If it doesnt want to initially fire, add cranking pw till it fires. if it fires and dies, add after start till it fires to attemp to run. If it dies after a few revolutions then work with your warmup.

Really cold can be tricky


Terry

Alright thanks I guess i'll just keep messing with it. I can't even imagine how it's going to be when it gets down in the negative numbers here haha.

I'm gonna have lots of fun trying to get my car to start when I get my parts in, and have to get it to the Vehicle Processing Center to ship...maybe it will happen to be above freezing a for few days haha.

Yea I was hoping you'd reply since you're from freakin alaska, figured it would get cold up there. I wonder how Corbin is doin, he's in VA and running 780s like me.

Alright well I got it definitely better than it was. What I thought the percentages were in the ASE settings were like over 100% will add fuel, under 100% will take away fuel. Apparently it's the percentage of your reqfuel it adds, so all the values should pretty much be under 100%. I didn't have much time to fool with it before the temp started to come up but it's a whole lot better.

So black magic (I have similar starting problem as you have as well)
So yo usaying for the ASE, the % should be all below 100%?
right now what I have is at 160F = 100% and -40F is 170%...
so ..can you post your ASE up which you said it runs alot better?

At the current temperature I have now... 30-40F in my area. I usually have to try to start my car around 3-6 times every morning to start the car up.

Thanks in advance man!
Gil

Well it's going to be different for every car, but to get you started, maybe something like the two below. Yesterday morning my car started up with coolant temp at 38 degrees with one key turn, I dunno maybe I just got lucky haha.

-40 50
-20 45
0 40
20 35
40 30
60 25
80 20
100 15
130 10
160 5



-40 100
-20 80
0 60
20 50
40 40
60 30
80 20
100 15
130 10
160 5

I dunno fool around with it.

Hmm...I'm gonna have to get this shit figured out once the rest of my parts get here on Monday. It's in the single digits outside, and they're not gonna ship my car if they can't even start it lol.

Thanks alot!
So you used the bottom one (second one) and it start right up for you after one key turn?

I am using 180 for -40F right now LOL.... prolly too rich..
my crank setting hsould be good coz it start up, but die right away for like 4 times (key turn)
I will try it soon. Thanks man!
Gil

I was using the first one actually, but I think some of my settings were off so I'm probably going to have to go with something like the second one.

Originally posted by BlackMagic
Well it's going to be different for every car, but to get you started, maybe something like the two below. Yesterday morning my car started up with coolant temp at 38 degrees with one key turn, I dunno maybe I just got lucky haha. -40 50 -20 45 0 40 20 35 40 30 60 25 80 20 100 15 130 10 160 5 -40 100 -20 80 0 60 20 50 40 40 60 30 80 20 100 15 130 10 160 5 I dunno fool around with it.

Is this your ASE or Warm^ enrich? my ASE doesn't have a box for 160* What do you have your ASE settings at? I'm still fighting with this... I have one map that will crank the car and it will warmup, but once at operating temp its all fucked up and I can't drive with it, so I have to switch maps and that map is the one I can drive with but it won't crank it...

That is the ASE settings. The newer firmwares have the 160 degree box. If your car starts to die after it hits operating temp there is something else wrong there.

It starts right up now.
after some futher adjustment to the ASE. nice!
so it's not above 100%, it's all below 100%. nice!
Thanks!

Finally got all the snow off my car...I guess it's my turn to have fun with all of this now :thumbsdown

Originally posted by gilee_8
It starts right up now. after some futher adjustment to the ASE. nice! so it's not above 100%, it's all below 100%. nice! Thanks!

no problem, glad it's workin out for you!

After quite some time...the car finally ran again tonight! I loaded Terry's 550cc map, changed the req fuel value, and that was it to get her started and running. Realized though that my turbonium is completely fuckz0red...so have to wait till tomorrow to bolt on new manifold and turbo.

It's like -7 outside right now...thank god for my garage right :thumbsup So what were you guys saying about "cold" starts hehe.

Ok...I got my new manifold, turbo, etc all bolted on finally and went to start the car last night. No luck at all, sitting in the garage with coolant temp ~70F I adjusted all of the above and couldn't keep her running. Car would crank and crank, sometimes fire up, and sometimes even run for maybe 2 or 3 seconds. Not even a week ago she fired right up, and last night I was in there for over an hour before all the carbon monoxide in the garage was unbearable haha. My car hates me, and apparentely doesn't want to ever leave Alaska :thumbsdown

And you didn't change any other settings at all?

Not at all since earlier in the week when it started. Now I'm trying everything to get her going. boo

Green top 42#'s, 3bar map, blah blah blah...

Go into your constants and make sure the barometric corrections is OFF. For some reason the 3 bar sensor and the correction dont agree.

Terry

Ahh, good call...I remember a couple months ago that it was set to OFF, but when reloading everything this time I definitely no last night it was set to ON. Gonna go try that now.


EDIT: you're the man, battery was a bit low but as soon as it got voltage she fired right up. Gonna go for the first drive in a long ass time now :thumbsup

Hey Masta,

Just doing some research and wanted to give you the thumbs up :thumbsup for getting your car running. Hope she had a good time in the snow.

MB

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Hey Masta, Just doing some research and wanted to give you the thumbs up :thumbsup for getting your car running. Hope she had a good time in the snow. MB

meh...ended up with oil everywhere in the engine bay :wtf

That's what happened when I spiked and overboosted on stock internals and the engine was bye-bye...this built short block better still be good, or somebody aka me is gonna be pissed. I'm finally getting out of Alaska after being delayed a few weeks, and my car has to be ready to ship by like Monday. I have a whole new ss oil feed line setup coming and downgraded to -3an and no restrictor which is scheduled to arrive this afternoon. A brand new oil change and a new pcv...we'll see what she does this time :shrug

You said you just blew your oil lines and lost your oil? That's how I first f-ed my engine. I psun a bearing when I melted my oil return line. It will teach me for putting it too damn close to the dp and not using a braided line! I'm still waiting on my motor to come back from my second rebuild now and I will be going through the ms integration shortly. can't wait!

The oil everywhere was nothing compared to the hole I blew in the block on Sunday ... !!!!