Ok, Iv'e got everything else FINALLY situated. I just need to know EXACTLY which resistor to use on the tach wire. I've been told to use Corbin's suggested resistor, but then I've also heard that some people had to use other resistors. WHICH DO I USE?!?!?!? Also, I need a base-settings map for stock primaries and 30lb secondaries so I can get on my way quickly! Thanks!

yup corbins.

maps have been posted in this section before.

yse, they have, but they were for 440cc secondaries. I've been watching this forum like a HAWK for the past 2-3 years and I haven't yet seen a map from someone running 30lb secondaries and stock primaries.

So make one. That's why it's called "tuning".

Don't worry, once I get it all straightened out, I'll post the map up here for all (i'm all for sharing knowledge). I was just wondering if anyone had a base-map I could start with. This car is going to be a semi-daily driver and I'd like to be able to drive her right after the install without major issues.

you will be able to drive, just not with all out boost. I think corbin was using 30lb secondairies? but thats with 30's for the primaries too.

At the moment, I've got stock primaries and 24lb secondaries set up to run well at 12 psi boost. If that is close enough for you, drop me an e-mail. I'm not on here enough right now to check back on this thread.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Got it Corbin, thanks!

Corbin sent me is map which he said is finely tuned for 12psi. I SHOULD be able to run, theoretically, up to about 25% more boost on that since my secondaries are 25% larger. Heck, even @ 12psi i'll be pretty darn rich, but I should be able to adjust the scaler value and matrix values to compensate. Anyone else have any suggestions for me? Tips/tricks to this whole thing?

do you have a wideband?

as you read in the old posts, no one really understands what the scaler should do, so use lower values, while others used some really big numbers. Just play with it and keep an eye on things.

don't mess around too much in the map. Stay on the scaler till you get it right. I found that out the hard way. don't go into that matrix unless you have some spesific (sp?) points to tune too.

Thanks Kirby. I haven't talked to you in YEARS! Last I heard from you, we were putting in/removing your motor! LOL

I've got an AEM UEGO wideband installed so I plan on tuning to 11.0 at 18-22psi. Corbin said his setup is pretty well tuned for 12psi and since I'm running larger 2ndaries, I SHOULD be able to pump it up to around 14 or so with that map. After I get that set, I"ll up the boost in 2psi increments and keep tuning till I hit 18-20psi. Once I'm tuned for 18-20, can I just lower the boost back to 10-12 for daily driving and still be ok, or will I need to retune everything?

Originally posted by PiKapp504
Thanks Kirby. I haven't talked to you in YEARS! Last I heard from you, we were putting in/removing your motor! LOL I've got an AEM UEGO wideband installed so I plan on tuning to 11.0 at 18-22psi. Corbin said his setup is pretty well tuned for 12psi and since I'm running larger 2ndaries, I SHOULD be able to pump it up to around 14 or so with that map. After I get that set, I"ll up the boost in 2psi increments and keep tuning till I hit 18-20psi. Once I'm tuned for 18-20, can I just lower the boost back to 10-12 for daily driving and still be ok, or will I need to retune everything?

Yeah brother after you have it tuned up to your high boost setting you can turn it down again for DD. Just remember though that you have to be more tuning vigilant with this setup, since there is no temp correction. So your high and low map now, will not be the same as you will need in the dead of august, or the dead of Dec...

that's fine by me. I dont' drive my car that much when it's cold out, and once it REALLY warms up (read mid to high 80's, low 90's) the map should be pretty much set. When it does get colder, I guess the scaler value would need to be upped slightly and the reverse when it's warmer, right?

Unfortuantely, I don't have a dual-stage boost controller. Jsut a simple manual, so when I want to change the boost, i need to get out of the car, adjust the controller, then get back in the car. I hope to get an electronic boost controller or Turbo XS Dual Stage here one of these days. Unless someone's making a dual stage controller and would like to make me one as well...;-)

Ok, I've got the base map up to 20psi for a rich tune. BANME!! Now I was thinking of something. I'm thinking of installing my MSD Dis-2 around the same time as the 034EIC setup. MY question is, will I still need the resistor for the 034 if I'm using the Dis-2 w/ the tach adaptor?

will you be getting the rpm signal from the msd or the stock harness? if from the msd... then no

That's the thing. I haven't installed the MSD yet so I don't know which'll be easier. I should first ask, how hard is the MSD to install? Secondly, if I were to go that route, where would the tach line need to be tapped from so I don't need the resistor? Anyone have a diagram or schematic of this?

Depends on what features you want to use, but the 6211 and 6212 are pretty similar. As for where to get the signal, the msd has a wire comming off it that is specifically for rpm signals.

It's just a regular MSD DIS-2. Is that wire gonna need to be connected elsewhere, or can I just use it strictly for the 034? I'm starting to get throughly confused again. lol

The MSD's tach output, the little spade connector near the blinky red LED is a damn strong signal. I had my Viper alarm, my 034EIC, and my wideband all hooked up to it at one point with no resistors and it worked fine, I doubt the stock ECU's white wire would ever let you do that. If you are going to use it's tach output for a signal then make sure you have your MSD all hooked up and running properly before you install the 034.

Is this wire connected to anything else? Like if/when I install the MSD ignition, will this wire be connected to anything OEM or just left loose?

Its there as a nice feature. You use it IF and when you want to. No it is not connected to anything Oem.

And it IS a damn strong signal.

Ok, I see the port your'e talking about. I finally relocated my battery to the trunk, now I just gotta figure out where the hell I'm gonna mount the DIS-2 box, the tach adapter box, and the 034EIC controller! Ugh!

I hve my dis 2 where the tcu was, the resitor box where the intake box used to be and the eic under the CC.

Pics?

? Any luck on those pics?

woops, sorry I rarely venture into this area unless one of theese posts is on the top and I can read it from the perf section.

Ill upload em.

Thanks!

***UPDATE***

System is IN!!! Corbin came down Saturday and I have to say, if it weren't for him, Rob and I woulda been up shit's creek without a paddle. The install went off without TOO many hitches. The biggest "problems" we had were HRC sending the wrong length studs in the Portfueler kit (for future reference, if anyone orders this, ask HRC to send 65mm studs, not the short ones they send normally), the alternator bracket (had to take out some material that wasn't listed) and a little injector issue during first fire-up (injectors were bought second hand and I couldn't verify the condition of them. We had a little sputter, but I ran it up to redline and that seemed to clean them out and she started to idle pretty damn well). Other than that, it was a "flawless" install and I'm currently running 14-15psi. My EGT's still go kinda high even though my fuel numbers are spot on, maybe a little rich. Corbin and I both concur that I need to retard the timing a little. I took the car out today and ran her up to the top of 3rd and 1/2 into 4th (up to around 100mph or so) and the EGT's were still right around 1450-1500. Either way, I'm VERY VERY VERY happy with the setup! Below is a link to some pics of the install. Enjoy!

http://www.aseclub.net/4images/categories.php?cat_id=4936&s=8f1404f04cbe2017c47e3fc9b617b4f8