It has come time (again) to change my oil. Does anybody have any suggestions or opinions on the best oil and filter?

mobil 1 10w30 fully synthetic

anything less would be uncivilized

my 136k motor boosted 420a can testify to that.

edit: oil filter, u can use the one from the 1g (its bigger) or u can even use the one from a dodge viper. just look up the part number
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.

"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

Originally posted by turbo8u
mobil 1 10w30 fully synthetic anything less would be uncivilized my 136k motor boosted 420a can testify to that. edit: oil filter, u can use the one from the 1g (its bigger) or u can even use the one from a dodge viper. just look up the part number _________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home. "drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

...ditto I remember I used to think that Royal Purple was good until I read a report talking about how it breaks down after 2000 miles which Mobile 1 doesn't do.

mobil 1 full syn :thumbsup

mmmmm i use valvoline 10w 30 and or penzoil.

i use castrol syntec 20w50. i wouldnt use fully sythetic unless i had a built motor and forced induction. besides, $16 a case is a good deal IMO.

Valvoline 10/30 full synthetic synpower. fram oil filter. i change my oil every 2,000 miles so i don't worry about using the best oil filter.

Dodge Viper = same exact filter as 420a. Won't make a difference.

Fram part # for the 420a is MO16.

Fram part # for the Dodge Viper is Mo16.

Turbo8u is just a ricer:P

For fluids and recommendations check this out:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/fluids.html

And for Oil filters check this study:

http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html

I use to live and swear by FRAMs, but now I switched to Mobile 1.

5w30 Mobile 1 Full Synthetic

I use Pennzoil synthetic blend. Cept nows it's called SUV Truck and Mini Van oil.

wo0t to soccer mom oil!

I hope i dont get flammed for asking this but i wanted to kno how much oil to put in after draining all the oil out for a oil change?? someone told me that ur suppose to put a quart for every cylinder..so does that mean 4 quarts should do it??? and wat about the oil filter...do i fill the filter up wit oil then screw it in or just add oil at the end when im filling it up wit oil??? THX for ne Help. Thx again in Advanced:bowdown

im pretty sure its 4.5 or 5. i cant remember exactly. you drain the oil, take off the filter, put the drain plug back in, put on the new filter, then put the oil in from the engine bay via the valve cover oil opening. goodluck. :cheers

napa brand or valvaline oil are the same thing
good oil too

amsoil turbo formula for any boosted vehicle

if you have no access to amsoil or cant afford it get mobil 1

k&n and that new japaneese element replaceable filter would be a good choice

mobil 1 filters are good some people dont like fram they have had some quality issues...

Yea 4.5 qts.

And whoever told you a qt per cylinder is a fucktard.

If that were the case most V engines would be starving of oil right now.

And you dont need to prime the filter with oil, just screw it on. The 420a probably has the easiest oil to change evAr.

Everything is right where you need it.

thx alot for the info, its greatly appreicated :thumbsup :cheers

one thing i would do is put oil around the top of the new filter to make sure it seals properly. just dip ur finger in the old oil and smear it around the top of the new filter. once it gets tight just go another 1/4 turn. this will make it much easier to take off next time. i prefer fram tough guard filters too, btw.

I just read that study on the oil fiters.
I've always used the Fram Double Guard. :( He says it's one of the worst. x( No wonder Daisy's pissed at me now. ;(

From now on, it's nothing but Mobil1 full synthetic oils and filters. :thumbsup

I think the K&N Performance Gold is a better filter than the Mobil1, I don't know why he doesn't have that on the results page.

The K&N Gold is not listed because he still has to post the results to the page. =/ I like the K&N as well, I think it is a great filter to use.

As for FRAM I use to swear by the X2 (the one that came in that soup can with the pop top) but after reading the notes about FRAM's contruction I am not going to even introduce one of those to my new 2GNT.

I do want to see the results of the K&N though, I want to see how it compares to the Mobile1 and the Purolator PureOne.

amsoil oil filters :bowdown

I use to use amsoil for oil and filter until i realized i was paying a shit load.

Originally posted by taloniized
I use to use amsoil for oil and filter until i realized i was paying a shit load.

how long before oil changes? 6k 10k?
or were you changing at 3k? if so you were wasting money...

Originally posted by Franklindsm
Dodge Viper = same exact filter as 420a. Won't make a difference. Fram part # for the 420a is MO16. Fram part # for the Dodge Viper is Mo16. Turbo8u is just a ricer:P

lol thats what i said :rolleyes

ricer? die.



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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.

"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

I just hit my 500 miles after my rebuild and I decided to go with Mobil 1 oil and filter... Damn, it cost me $34.90 for the oil and filter...Plus I got the oil at wal-mart on sale.

The dealer of amsoil told me that i could go 25,000 miles without changing oil...I would just have to change the filter after 7500...I think that's what it was...it was 4 years ago, i can't remember...but i was skeptical about going 25,000 miles without changing my oil...

i dunno if id go 25k ona turbo car maybe 15k

yea change the filter every 5k or so

i would not put synthetic ina 500mile motor you should wait till you closer to the 2k-3k range atleast!

i've heard that too...why is that?

Synthetic oil doesn't allow the rings to properly seat. So you use conventional stuff till they are, then switch to the good stuff.

Wow I'm surprised so many people use Mobil 1 full synthetic. Like someone said above, I wouldn't spend money on full synthetic unless I had a built or boosted motor.

BTW, I've been told it's a good idea to pre-fill the oil filter with oil. This helps the oil circulate faster on that initial startup after changing the oil. It couldn't hurt, and just means you end up putting less oil through through the filler since you already have some in your filter.

yes filling the filter is a good idea..

i dont think i would spend on synthetic unless you had a real low mile motor or a built motor and atleast let the opil stay in for 5k if your usging synthetic other wise whats the point?

mineral oil cant even break down at the 3000mile mark unless there is something wrong.. or you are really mean to your car =P

guess i'll pipe in my 2 cents on the whole oil thing....
yes you can drive farther (more miles) on synthetic oil as it will change viscosity for a long time (unlike crude). with that being said think about what you are doing to your engine running 25000 miles (someone claimed that above with amsoil), you are not changing your oil just because of the viscosity break down, but also because it gets dirty as hell...we did a study on this at the vocational school i went to...while the oil companies are right that synthetic will easily last 7500miles that means you are running all that dirt and carbon around in your engine that much longer....to do so is the most riduculous thing in the world....if you can afford to drop money into your car you can afford to do oil changes,it is better to run crude and change every 3k than run synthetic and change every 7K+

as far as not needing to prime (fill before installation)your oil filter good luck the oil comes from the filter before going to your engine, so essentially you are dry starting your engine damming you bearings...just fyi 3mins without oil = 100,000mi on your engine so every time you start you car without that extra 1/2qt that goes in the oil filter you are putting on roughly 10K extra miles on your bearings.....good luck!!!!!!

Originally posted by hawaiidiverx
guess i'll pipe in my 2 cents on the whole oil thing.... yes you can drive farther (more miles) on synthetic oil as it will change viscosity for a long time (unlike crude). with that being said think about what you are doing to your engine running 25000 miles (someone claimed that above with amsoil), you are not changing your oil just because of the viscosity break down, but also because it gets dirty as hell...we did a study on this at the vocational school i went to...while the oil companies are right that synthetic will easily last 7500miles that means you are running all that dirt and carbon around in your engine that much longer....to do so is the most riduculous thing in the world....if you can afford to drop money into your car you can afford to do oil changes,it is better to run crude and change every 3k than run synthetic and change every 7K+ as far as not needing to prime (fill before installation)your oil filter good luck the oil comes from the filter before going to your engine, so essentially you are dry starting your engine damming you bearings...just fyi 3mins without oil = 100,000mi on your engine so every time you start you car without that extra 1/2qt that goes in the oil filter you are putting on roughly 10K extra miles on your bearings.....good luck!!!!!!

Very good info, I would like to add to this that priming is recommended and that our cars are ok running a 1/2Q low between changes and that some of our engines like to drink a bit, but this is normal for mopar engines. When I drive my car hard like redlines all day and general engine abuse (LOL) it will do through a 1Q to 1/2Q every couple weeks. There have been short periods in her time when she is papmered and won't drink so much as a drop in a month while keeping revvs below 3.5K

To set the record straight our motors need 4.7Q

oh wait, so when you change oil and the filter, you fill the filter with oil??? that's the first time i've heard of but good info. i'll remember to do that...
-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

yea sometimes i find that shes a quart low, she guzzles oil sometimes :shrug

you dont need to *fill* the oil filter, just coat the rubber ring around it with some fresh oil and screw it on. after u screw it on, start the car to build oil pressure and turn it off, check the oil and refill a half quart (whats in the filter)

werd, hopefully that helps someone at sometime in some form or another
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.

"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "

Guys,

Pull drain plug.

Pull oil filter.

When oil is done put in plug.

Put oil around rubber gasket on filter.

Twist on filter.

Take off oil cap.

Pour in 4.5 qts of whatever oil.

Start the car up.

Check for leaks.

No leaks = :thumbsup

Leaks = :thumbsdown

I still prime the filter so there isn't that period when the engine is starved.

just my 2 cents guys, i like to use mobil 1 fully syn and i get my oil filters from mitsubishi. i know a guy at my local mitsu dealer and he hooks me up with a free filter every 3k miles, what a champ, lol.

suppose you do put on the filter though, w/o filling it with oil first. you then proceed to fill up the engine with oil. this oil immediately sinks and goes into the filter, correct? (unless the oil pump is between the return and the filter, I don't know) And even though the oil isn't warm is it low viscous enough to go right through the paper element anyway (I assume it would go through the mobil-1 element quickly)? so the filter will fill up anyway, if you let it sit a minute?

damn, that's what I always assumed. oh well live and learn

When you fill the crankcase with oil, it does not drain directly into the filter.

Originally posted by CODE4
When you fill the crankcase with oil, it does not drain directly into the filter.

Very little will get into it at all.

actually by just filling the car up with oil you aren't putting any in the filter at all....the oil pump pumps oil into the filter and fromt there it is distributed into the rest of the engine...so no you are starting your car dry...like i said before that isn't good the the bearings, but it's your car and your dollars....it's not like this is a hard step to accomplish...the oil filter is straight up and down how hard does it seem...

^^you are correct and what does dry starting and oil starvation lead to? spun rod bearings.

Not a real science, but I follow this schedule:

Summer: Mobil full synthetic 20w50 or Amsoil turbo formula
Winter: 10w30
Filter: Fram--always primed with oil before installation
Oil change interval: 1500-2000 miles
Total: 4.5 Qts.

This maintenance might seem extreme, but I also drive the car pretty hard 15-18psi :shrug

Originally posted by MotoFool
^^you are correct and what does dry starting and oil starvation lead to? spun rod bearings.

what about the 4g63? the filter is on sideways on that engine. i had forgot about it and filled it halfway then tipped it and it got all over me....:thumbsdown

Shit hear comes my 2 cents. I use regular , i dont bother useing sythenic. I use Kendell Racing Oil . I get it insanly cheap but if i cant get my hands on that i use Castrol GTX Drive Hard, Cuz i drive my car hard. I use Always K&N or the FRAM RACING FILTER.

Also i head its bad to change an engine with alot of miles on it that has been using regular oil to sythenic.

Originally posted by darosa4561
i head its bad to change an engine with alot of miles on it that has been using regular oil to sythenic.

I agree. I have also heard of this before, too. I think the logic behind this was that the expansion of internal parts and the lubrication/sealing could be affected by the oils' properties--in terms of its break down point--which could ultimately result in leaks, or that the sythetic varieties tend to "mask" some minor impections and vice versa. And, I also believe that switching oils from regular to synthetic in higher mile engines is not recommend. The most important thing is that OIL/FILTER is changed regularly.

:-)

Originally posted by Diceman19

Originally posted by MotoFool ^^you are correct and what does dry starting and oil starvation lead to? spun rod bearings.

what about the 4g63? the filter is on sideways on that engine. i had forgot about it and filled it halfway then tipped it and it got all over me....:thumbsdown

spin faster my friend