my car is having a problem in second and third gear and sometimes forth when accelerating .. it will start bucking and just keep at it whenever im in those gears.. my mechanic did the spark plugs, wires, coilpack, and fuel pressure regulator and it keeps at it .. it's going back into the shop monday to be checked out again but i was just wondering if anyone had any ideas .. engine was rebuilt like 3 months ago ..the car has 140000 miles on it and it has the origninal tranny in it .. new headers/clutch/etc

thanks for any input

mine did the same thing. i unhooked the map and plugged it back in and it runs fine now. just the map acting up i suppose. is your sheck engine light on?

clogged cat?

I am feeling stupid right now...were is the MAP at on our car?????




Performance: Stuff that makes my car run better or go faster

Looks: Stock because looks doesnt make my car go faster or run better

Weight Reduction: CF Hood, No A/C or Powersteering Accessories, No rear interior

it's on the end of the intake mani(pass. side). it has a small plug connected to it. the plug is connected to the top.

Well HMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... I just posted a WTB on some Magnecore Wires on the Sales forum/section.

I'm gonna try unplugging it & putting it back in as well 2 C if it's the prob. What Xactly is the MAP, background, consequences?

I've got 3 other friends here who have 97-99 Eclipses: Me & 2 of my 3 friends R all having the same freaking stuttering prob & it's driving us nuts!

I've already got brand new NGK BKR5E-11 (or whatever) 1 hot range hotter as they've been in there a bit (don't remember what the adv is, just been using 1 hot range hotter now on my past 2 Eclipsi). Replaced my Valve Cover Gasket ~1yr ago, no oil. I 2 am trying 2 replace the wires, then coilpack, then fuel regulator. All I can think is that it's either an ignition or fuel prob. MayB 2 much fuel?

P.S.
Any1 know where I can buy some NEW Magnecore 8.5mm plug wires?

P.P.S.
My wires Rn't that old, I replaced them probably a year ago (cheap AutoZone stuff, NOT Magnecore or NGK)

P.P.P.S.
I MADE my car stutter 2day, was in 4th gear @ ~2k RPM's going like 30mph... my CEL light flashed real quick (4 the 1st time) & then just went away. I'm hoping 2 get the code @ AutoZone 2 C what the prob is.

Thanx,
- J

Well, I just got back from AutoZone... Cylinder #2 Misfire. Already ordered the mag wires just a min ago. I also unplugged the MAP & plugged it back in (w/ car on ;) ) & it did noticably help but U can still tell the prob is there, just not as bad. I don't suppose there's any way 2 actually replace that sensor as it C'ms 2 B in the manifold permanently ;)

P.S.
Sorry 4 the little hijack of the thread, same prob ;)

Good info,
- J

>Well, I just got back from AutoZone... Cylinder #2 Misfire.
>Already ordered the mag wires just a min ago. I also
>unplugged the MAP & plugged it back in (w/ car on ;) ) & it
>did noticably help but U can still tell the prob is there,
>just not as bad. I don't suppose there's any way 2 actually
>replace that sensor as it C'ms 2 B in the manifold permanently
>;)
>
>P.S.
>Sorry 4 the little hijack of the thread, same prob ;)
>
>Good info,
> - J

it's all good .. im gunna try that map senor today .. my mechanic seem to have fixed it tho the car was running great last night but the check engine light came on again so i have to run it by him to see what the code is .. i'll find out what he did and fill you in tho ..

did the wires,plugs,coilpack,unplugged/plugged the MAP, but still the same problem. So, what next???;(

Thanx, I'd B interested 2 C what this guy did 2 fix your prob. My mag wires R supposed 2 B coming in 2day & I'm getting a bit anxious.

P.S.
Wondering about my O2 Sensors if it's just getting flooded w/ gas.

- J

well the engine light came on because my mechanic disconnected my pcv valve .. that fixed my problem completely so far he told me to let it run like this for a few days then we'll try pluggin it back in to see if it bucks again then i guess replace that... my problem was definately fixed tho when that valve was disconnected ..

ohya he disconnected the hose and put a screw in it

Ok now, U're confusing me here... I don't C how a faulty PCV Valve would ever turn on the CEL. I mean, mine was shot 2 sh** err crap (a while ago) & it never turned on the CEL, don't C how it can... just keeps the oil from getting in2 the intake manifold.

As far as the prob B'ing fixed by disconnecting the PCV Valve, how's that? And what do U mean he put a screw in it?

If he plugged the hose/valve cover where your PCV valve is supposed 2 go in2 the manifold, U would B building an enormous amount of pressure & could cause serious damage I would think.

Pleaz clarify, thanx!
- J

the error code came back something about egt or erg or something like that he said .. i'll find out exactly what he did but the car is definately fixed and running 1000% better and he took the hose like i said and put a screw in it

EGR? Mine hasn't been on my car for 6 months. I have a CEL for it but it's never caused my car to buck or stutter.

Your EGR is your Exhaust Gas Recirculator. It's the big valve looking thing with vaccume hoses and a plug going to it sitting on the driver side of your engine (in the front). It has a pipe that goes from the front to the rear of your intake manifold.

EGR Valve huh, yeah... that'll turn on the CEL. Pretty sure that wouldn't fix the stuttering prob though I don't think. Still curious 2 know what he did, hope he didn't plug your valve cover.

P.S.
Nice pic miller!

- J

yeah i just confirmed with my mechanic he did unplugg the egr to fix the bucking .. shit worked .. like i said before ..before this we tried spark plugs, wires, coilpark, fuelpressure regulator...everything ..and nothing worked ... this definately is tho ...

I may be totally wrong but I've never heard of your EGR valve causing your car to buck. Can't happen. But what it can do is melt the wiring on the side of your block.


So if you unplug it it isn't getting hot. Maybe it hasn't burned through your wires yet, maybe it's just melting the insulation and allowing the wires to rest on the pipe and grounding them out. Then when it cools it's seperating from the pipe.


I'd check the wiring below and around your EGR pipe and see if it's being melted or disfigured...then you can get to the real issue.

Is this happening to everybody? I've been noticing a lot of people are having "backfiring" problem. But, the question I have is...is everybody having the same kind a problem? because, I don't or haven't met any 2gnt people with the backfire problem. I also know that there are many different "types" of backfire too.
Does anybody know someone that has actually fixed it for good? My backfire went away for about 3 months, but it came right back...STRONGER... I have to rev to about 2400rpm to keep the car from stalling in first now...every turn i make...i fart..LOL
SOMEONE HELP!!!!

Well, I'm gonna check my EGR valve 2 make sure it's fine... but I agree w/ Miller. I don't C how a bad EGR could cause the car 2 stutter/backfire/buck/etc.

P.S.
I still hope he did NOT plug your valve cover!

- J

Yeah I have a nice hesitation problem right now, I was just going to change the coilpack but now Im going to check everything. Mine happened in 3rd gear up below 2k rpm's and would either be one big one or a few smaller seperated ones. Now it happens in 2nd gear up below 3krpm's and can be a bunch of big hickups. Tomorrow when I clean that damn engine bay oout Im going to unplug the MAP and check out all my wires, maybe reset the ECU and see what happens! If all else fails Ill just have to play along with the guessing game. SOunds like a TSB to me.

yeah mine is having the same hesitation. i got a code and had a vaccuum leak/idle sensor or another item. it's revs up to 2500-3000 rpms then idles at 1500. then if i sit still for too long, what's to die. it's like it's starving for air. plus when i'm driving and i just cruise, it'll act like i loose power the pick up then do it all over again.

>I have to rev to about 2400rpm to keep the
>car from stalling in first now...every turn i make...i
>fart..LOL

Every TURN you make? Thats really wierd.

I had a problem with my car a long time ago. It kind of sounds simalar, in so far as I was loosing so much power that I had to keep the throttle high to not stall it. My problem degraded so rapidly that I ended up taking it to the dealer(like I said long time ago). I can't remember exactly what it was, but I THINK it had sometihng to do with the fuel pressure regulator.

That kind of brings me back to the turning thing. The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is that it could be that you're low on fuel pressure. Then when you turn, the gas in the rail kind of sloshes to one side or the other, preventing fuel from getting through the injector. I don't remember if I was backfiring in turns, but I was backfiring. But my thought is that low fuel pressure may cause a backfire when you turn.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

So maybe its the fuel presssure regulator? Yeah, since I turn in 2nd i FART while i'm re-accelerating out of the turn. Unless I put it in 1st or something. But, this only applies just on turning right? What about straight away? Because I backfire like a mofo. I almost got beat by a SATURN, (but, after 4500rpm, I accelerate good...)but it was close...now, that's BAD!!!

I do remember one thing when my problem went away few months ago. Everytime I changed out my "PLUG WIRES", it went away. Sometimes it will run fine for a week and my best was for 3months. But, sometimes it didn't work either. (I changed my plug wires about 8~9 times since last summer) If it is the wires, what could cause my wires to go bad that quick? Or could it be my plugs(i've also changed them out about 10times now) I am really getting pissed...x( I know I drive a mitsubishitty, but I didn't think it could be this bad... I talked to couple of japan mitsubishi motor engineers last week...all they did was laughed and said "you should have bought something else...";( SO HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't "fart" going around corners, I'll stutter when I'm underpowered same as U guys & I'll also stutter when I floor it & really take off. It's like going fast-slow-fast! Changing 2 some mag wires & new plugs 2day. Going on short road trip, hope it helps!

Is there a TSB 4 this?
- J

Bad EGR if the valve is opening when it's not suppose to, or stuck open. SOmethign faulty, you'llbe introducing hot exhaust gasses into the engine when you don't want it. The vave is only suppose to open under cruising conditions, under acceleration it should be closed. Possible...

Other possible causes... crank or cam angle sensor, the Neon guys get this problem sometimes and there was even an update of the crank sensor a couple of times. But that didn't alway fix the stuttering.

So essentially I posted, with no real info or help provided...



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

When you guys mean check/replace O2 sensor, do I replace both of them? Don't we have one before and after the cat conv? Autozone quoted $80 for the rear one.

Do you guys know any place cheap?

mine is having this problem to but really bad as i posted on the general section i cant rev past 2500 or in misfires n shit and the only thing it reads is misfire so i took it to the mech. and he said bad gas. just filled up that morning and i know atleast 3 other people who had probs wit there car all were bad gas just within the last 3 weeks i think the companies might be puttin extra addatives n water in teh gas w/ this iraq thing goin on. and i think its strange that it started to happen to a bunch of us all the same problem within like 1-2 months now

add me to the list of car issues of the similar type..

the map sensor or a loose wire on the map sensor is probbaly causing the problem dealing with not being able to go above a certain rpm.. close to 2500-3000

now.. i did have a problem one day where this happened and i thought i had killed the engine.. im stock'ish.. so i was a bit hesitant to believe this, but had no otehr idea.... we unplugged the map sensor harness and plugged it back in and car worked and idled properly again.. this was a few months ago.

my current problem is dealing with lack of power or slight hessitaion between 2-3k rpm at 2nd - 5th gear.. it is fine if i dont accelerate hard in this range, but if i do.. it will hessitate some and have not much power..

i suspect it could be a bad gas thing, or maybe an ignition problem.. im still not sure what to do.. but thats why we have this forum to help us discuss and fix problems..

best of luck to us all as we all seem to have a similar problem but with some differences at times..

this is what i found out. i was talking to one of the guys at work and he said, if you unplug the idle stop solenoid, and it keeps running, then it's sticking. i had already replaced mine and it is still doing it so i am going to replace it with another one and see what happens. he might be thinking about an idle air part but when i unplugged mine, it kept running. i'll tell you what i find out.

Interesting... another vote 4 checking the EGR Valve, I think I'm gonna do that when I get home (out of town 4 the weekend).

Well, I just put on some brand spanking new Magnecore 8.5mm plug wires & some new NGK spark plugs (that R NOT 1 heat range hotter, just 2 B sure) & a good bit of silicone 4 the connectores. My problem has completely disappeared! The problem was stuttering when underpowered (2-3k RPMs any gear) & when under Xtreme acceleration (flooring it). This is encouraging as my engine code was a Cylinder #2 misfire, leads me 2 Blieve it's ignition afterall & not fuel. BUT, I'm gonna keep on looking @ stuff so I don't develop another case like Copper, coming back after a couple weeks.

I noticed some marks on the coil pack connectors, not so much corrosion... well mayB a little bit, & some kind of burn marks. I really don't care right now though, it's gone... gonna get another coilpack. Gonna still check the EGR Valve. Outside of plugging the hose & C'ing if it opens when the car is on, is there any quick way 2 check it?

P.S.
Any1 know of a good place 2 buy a new coilpack, mayB some kind of upgraded/better 1 (@ a good price)?!?

P.P.S.
Whoohoo, YEAH, no mo probs 4 me any mo!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@least 4 the time being :wary

Still working on this,
- J

car problems here too.......when i accelerate from a stop it hesitates for a sec before it starts going.....i think its my fault though.......when i changed my VC gasket i got in a hurry because it started to sprinkle a little and water+ exposed motor = very bad......so after i was done i noticed that i had gotten the wires the run too the thing on top of the VC where the plug wires plug in too, coil i guess, caught inbetween the VC and the head....so i had to undo that side and pull them out...and at the beginnin of the job i tried to pull off the hose that connects to the VC and the intake mani and broke off some of the hose in the process.....like one inch worth......i still got it to go back on for now but im guessin that one of these things is my problem.....vacume leak or i almost cut through some wires that go to the coil........i hope its just the hose....we will see on tuesday......

yes im a hijacker:thumbsup

dfresh

sheesh with all these people having the same problem you'd think there'd be a recall on something or other?...

YOU LUCKY ASS J!!! J/K :P But, that's good to know that your problem went away just like me. My problem went away everytime I changed out my plugs/wires...BUT it always came back.

So the question now is, why do the wires go bad? I think I have been trying to fix the after reslut, but not the main problem. What can cause the wires to go bad? If this fixes J for good, why wouldn't regular wires work? strange...:wary

J, Where did you get them wires and how much did you pay for them???

Hey, yeah... I hope it's fixed 4 good. I really don't know what would cause the wires 2 go bad... mayB it is the EGR valve, mayB the plugs Rn't sparking (2 much fuel) & that energy is backing up in2 the wire & frying them, I haven't a clue.

Well, I got my wires from www.optauto.com (don't have an Xact link)... posted a WTB in Sales/Wanted & got a couple responses saying that was the best. They cost $55 + shipping. I remember that shipping was pretty cheap (I paid 15 2 get it here real quick).

Good Q,
- J

see i have my problem when i slow down. it acts like it wants to keep going. makes me think i have tranny problems. sounded like i was having a vaccuum leak around the map sensor plus it's kinda gunked up so i cleaned it and put some silicone to seal it. if it still has problems, then i have a leak somewhere else. if it doesn't, then problem fixed.

OMG. i have most of these problems too. this is stupid. my car used to hesitate a month or so ago. i changed the plugs. boom. hesitation gone. my idle has always sucked, and i assumed it was because my speed sensor don't work. becaus of my sensor not working, sometimes my car dies when i come to an intersection. and yeah, i have to rev my car up a little to get moving. some days its better than other days. some days my car just feels like blowing up. one day i was going to school and i was in 5th. i leet off the gas but it just kept going. i pushed the brake and i it slowed then resumed speed. my cruise control isn't hooked up so that couldn't be it. so i pushed in the clutch and it slowly reved up higher and higher then i just cut the engine and coasted into a driveway. then it wouldn't start because of some battery conneciton problem that is unrelated. sounds like:

a)egr valve is open while accelerating causing hesitation. my car drives fine once in cruising rpms

b)something with the ignition is causing the plugs/wires to go bad really fast.

c)map/iac sensor/motor problems...

I'm going to try unpluggin my ecu and map sensor... see what happens.. we need to figure this out and document it because its a really annoying problem that almost every eclipse(420a) user has probably encountered or will encounter.
late

well i am going to replace two vaccuum lines that i swapped to silicone hose back to rubber and see if that helps. i have cruise also and i am thinking that it's that canister right there that one of the vaccuum lines is hooked to that. plus come next paycheck i am going to buy a new MAP and see what happens.

There's some1 selling a MAP sensor in the forums 4 $20. I'd get it myself had I not just moved 2 FL (From TN) & were tight on dough.

Update:
Went stock heat range NGK plugs & Magnecore 8.5mm Wires
Made sure 2 use all silicone crap on wires & threads where app
No mo stuttering, however I will B looking @ replacing my EGR when able.

- J

where did you get your magnacores? is there anyother brands that can be recomended? i'll see if i can post later what my car sounds like when hesitating and see if anyone can confirm the same sounds.

Lets list the brands of Plugs and Wires that you guys use for those who are having problems. I'm sick and tired of this BS. I've been having problems for almost a year. So...

I used to use bosch plugs/wires.
now bosch wires with ngk plugs...

i'm having the same stutter/hesitation prob that seems to dissapear at higher rpm's...

could oil in the spark plug wells cause enough of a short circuit where the plug won't be causing a powerful enough spark? just thought this might be a possibility.

>P.S.
>Any1 know of a good place 2 buy a new coilpack, mayB some kind
>of upgraded/better 1 (@ a good price)?!?

I just bought a MSD Coil and MSD plug wires from Summit Racing...and the total price was around $110 shipped...it was like $60 for the coil and around $40 for the wires...hope this helps!!! :thumbsup

Did those MSD coil/wires help the backfire???

i use some auto something plugs and stock wires.
gottem at napa

My coil pack cable was arcing to my crankcase breather, causing a misfire. Its the grey wrapped cable under the blueish hose in coppereclipse's sig pic.

Also, I have magnecores, and they misfire if they're not seated PERFECTLY. I have to smash em on there until my fingers turn blue and then twist and grind them on. I've seen plug wire lube that is supposed to increase conductivity, dunno if it'd help tho.

My plug wires also seem to arc to my head if the wire is resting on the valve cover. I put them in wire loom and bent it so they don't get too close to the hood or the valve cover.

Oh, and it's not the 02 sensor. You can completely unplug the thing and your engine will start running like crap, but it won't really surge/backfire like you guys are describing. Just run consistently like crap as if you're towing a house.

how do i check the egr and where the hell is the iac motor?